Zed Head

If you go with ground control then any short circuit in the wire between the device and the control relay will power the device. If you have power supply control a short will blow the circuit's fuse instead.

Type A definitely looks different than type B. I really don't know much about either. I did find your part number under the Sports pages though. You probably did too. You might see if there's another old Datsun forum out there somewhere. Your idea of trying a 1.0 mm shim makes sense. Can't hurt. Might be the guy before you was in a hurry or just didn't have the tools to do it right. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/sports-1965-1970/power-train/transmission-shaft-gear/5-speed-(warner)/20 Here's the link that you copied the numbers from. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-gears/4-speed/to-aug-71 And for those who want to see the change... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-gears/4-speed

I've wondered if the broken magnet was a show stopper. Apparently not. Make sure the blue wire is connected to the negative terminal. It's Pin 1 trigger to the ECU for the injectors. Counts sparks then opens them up.

Lots of good stuff on this page, linked below. Menu down and to the right. Not many ZX's here. @dutchzcarguy has one. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

What are the issues? Might just be the module. You can wire in a GM HEI module for about $25. Or buy a ZX module for $134 (ouch). The HEI module will work as well or better. You could also convert to a 280Z distributor if you happen to find one. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1981,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209338,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 Here's a detailed, make-it-look-right example, but you can also just extend the wires out to the fenderwell.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/aug/28/unvaccinated-teacher-infected-half-her-students-covid-california-cdc

Here is that recent thread.

Which ones? There are six. Here is the info from the Nissan Factory Service Manual book. There are shops that know how to make the propeller shaft joints replaceable but it's not standard practice. somebody just posted about it.

Really seems like the guy is just having general problems running his business. All signs say avoid Whitehead Performance. It's been going on for a few months. Go to April 10 in this thread if the link doesn't get you there. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113706-whitehead-performance/?do=findComment&comment=1228704

This would make a good addition to the Wiring Diagrams Downloads page, and a few other places. Documents can exist in more than one place, I assume.

Bad bleeders bud. Bummer. New MC maybe? Yours seems oddly shaped. Where did it come from? Looks it might even have ports, or the bosses for ports, on the other side. Are they drilled and tapped? Maybe just swap them.

Any chance you have a motor mount problem? I like to browse around the BAT site to compare to other cars. They take a lot of pictures. I took a few looks and it does seem like they have more room than you do. Here's a 71. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-187/ https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=240z

Sounds like your L wire is not providing power to the windings. Check for voltage at the L wire with the key on. A good alternator with no L power will not charge. Actually with an external alternator, it's the F terminal. No F power, No F'ing charging. Check inside the plug with the key on. sometimes the connection canget loose too, so if you find power make usre it's a solid connection to the F terminal. Check your grounds also. The alternator case should have a ground through the monuts but it also has a dedicated ground wire. No ground no charge.

He's getting inexpensive publicity for his art stuff. The Pitchfork headline was funny, I thought. Nirvana sued by baby... The guy should have a baby chasing a dollar tattooed on his chest. And how about a new headline - "Baby still chasing dollar".

Use your door buzzer circuit and switch as a "headlight on" buzzer.

The only draw on the battery would be the clock. And that is so small that it won't drain a battery for months. Still not really clear what problem you're trying to solve. You showed that the alternator is discharging while the engine is running, which means the alternator is not working. That will drain a battery pretty fast, with spark and fuel pump and various relays drawing power. A super simple check for a key-off draw is to watch and listen for a spark when you connect the last battery cable. I had a single relay active after a wiring change (alternator modification) and it created a significant spark, it was a clue that I had a problem (along with the battery dying overnight). I think it was drawing 0.3 amps. Once I fixed the draw even the clock didn't produce a significant spark even though it worked just fine.

https://pitchfork.com/news/nirvana-sued-by-baby-from-nevermind-album-artwork-for-child-pornography/

If it's a Standard, it's "in spec". https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45627&cc=1209170&pt=4884&jsn=844 https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/154/GF10221B.pdf MECHANIC'S SERVICE TIPS (MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS) TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION FEATURES All VRs are designed to compensate for changes in temperature, matching the output voltage to the needs of the battery. They produce higher voltage in cold weather and lower voltage in warm weather, especially the electromechanical type. This in turn affects the voltage calibration, therefore you should always operate a voltage regulator for 20 minutes to stabilize the internal heating effects before checking the voltage setting. Voltage specifications of regulators after 20 minutes warm up (at 70 °F) are 13.5 - 15.0 volts for alternator output currents between 3 - 21 amp.

You might just clean up your voltage regulator and alternator connections to start off. The regulator senses the alternator output and regulates accordingly. If it's sensing incorrectly, maybe through a corroded connection, it might be allowing too much voltage. Find that page I copied from and you'll see that the VR is adjustable. You could tune it down if the voltage stays high. EE-23 shows the adjustment process. Assuming that you still have the external regulator. If you have already converted to an internal reg alternator, then move the end of the sense wire closer to the alternator output and/or clean those connections too.

Just remembered that my favorite square head bolt tool is a large Crescent (adjustable) wrench. The 12 inch model was surprisingly strong. https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-AT212VS-Finish-Adjustable-Wrench/

Where are you getting this reading from? A 73 alternator with external regulator can reach 15 volts. It would be normal for certain temperatures.

An old thread with pictures so you can see what you might dealing with.

There are descriptions around the internet of people using long skinny tools and amazing eyesight being able to push the tensioner piston back in to its bore, and getting things back together. I think that there are also stories of people spending a lot of time trying this before giving up and taking the front cover off. Can't hurt to poke around down there and see what your abilities are.