Zed Head
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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The pressure seen on the gauge depends on the size of the volume in the gauge and its fittings that the air is being compressed in to. A long hose, or a big gauge, or an adapter can lower the pressure. The smaller the volume the higher the number. Pop's Z's Z has a small chamber head (280Z head, probably N42) on a block with flat top pistons. Should be around 10:1 CR, give or take some. Higher than the 8.3:1 of the typical 280Z engine. So, higher cylinder pressures. Like SteveJ wrote, it's the comparison that really matters.
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Hammer time. Supposed to start at 11:00 minutes.
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I think that he probably got some of that blue silicone hose at OReilly or Autozone.
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Help with factory alternator harness on '72 240Z
Zed Head replied to RJK's topic in Open Discussions
No, 12V post is S, which would be the top of the T in your plug. Ignition key on is the vertical part of the T. I don't know which way that plug fits n the alternator so can't say which color is what. But, by your description, it looks backward. Here is an image from an 83 ZX Z, which used the S and L terminology. and Nissan used it in theri schematic. The T is upside down but that should be manageable. -
If it ran before it seems like nothing major would have happened just from disconnecting and reconnecting the AFM hose. I don't know that I would start messing with things that you haven't touched. Focus on the area you were working in. Looks like you disconnected the throttle valve sensor for some reason. What else did you disconnect? One strong possibility is that you disconnected the water temperature sensor and are flooding it. That would be one reason starting fluid doesn't work. I agree with Dave, that internal fuel tank looks scary. Reminds me of what I saw in a wrecking
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Don't forget the obvious. There's a left and a right. They might be bypassed in your setup or they might not be.
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This is not enough to really begin making guesses. Remove the spark plugs and examine them. They can tell you a lot about what's happening in the cylinders. You'll have to remove them anyway to measure cylinder pressure. The fact that it runs means that you can listen to it and mess with it while it is running. You can learn a lot that way also. The coolant might be a "red herring". Irrelevant to the running problem.
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Not bad. Here's more details on how to do it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/
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Here's a bunch about it. You set the pressure plate on a flat surface, put the collar/sleeve with bearing on top, then measure to the top of the ears where the clutch fork contacts. There are pictures and drawings in some of these threads. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=92mm pressure plate&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy
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Most auto parts stores have a selection of pre-fitted brake lines of various lengths. You can take your old parts in and compare and test fit. Use a piece of wire or string to run down your old line to get the length.
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If you have an electric pump you can disconnect up by the filter and pump most of it out. You can also disconnect the outlet hose at the tank if you want control of the first few gallons. Easier to use Vise-grips on the hose than trying to get the plug back in if your container fills up.
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The USA was/is planning to open borders to international travelers. I wonder if that will still happen as planned. Things are getting bad again over in Europe. https://www.reuters.com/world/uk/us-relax-travel-restrictions-passengers-uk-eu-november-source-2021-09-20/ https://www.yahoo.com/news/deltas-surprise-uk-comeback-is-a-warning-sign-for-the-us-090008459.html https://ourworldindata.org/covid-cases
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We're talking about the 280ZX Turbo transmissions. 1981 - 1983. Not brand name changes decades later. Not what AC Delco did in 2016. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON Here's the 1983 FSM info again. That is what the conversation is about. 1983. The stuff about 2016 is interesting but not really relevant.
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It's right there in the graphic that I pasted from the 1983 FSM. I doubt that they were recommending gear oil in their automatic transmissions. Look at the graphic. "Type DEXRON" is mentioned twice.
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I understand dutchz just fine.
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It's been confusing over the whole lifetime of Borg Warner "T5"'s. Put "atf t5" in the Google box and a ton will come up. You could read for days and still never be sure. But the ATF issue still exists. I bought a 2003 Ford with an M5OD 5 speed in it and Ford recommends Mercon V ATF. But it got stuck in neutral often (a not uncommon problem with the M5OD. Too slippery for the synchros? Don't know), so I used Pennzoil Synchromesh and it fixed all of the problems. That was 30,000 miles ago and some of the Ford guys say it's going to burn the needle bearings up because it's to thick.
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Click the chain link and paste your link there. Yours didn't work.
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Pretty sure Nissan wasn't recommending spitwads here...
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You can see a lot of the timing chain parts with the valve cover off. Get a bright light and see what's down there. If somebody broke a bolt off in the thermostat housing (very common) and drilled it out they might have drilled a hole in the guide. It's right behind one of the holes. I don't see how piston ring parts get out of the ring groove and down the length of the piston skirt to the crankcase without major piston damage.
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Can't remember your year of car or I'd post a link but the big full-car wiring diagrams show the fusible link circuits.
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Looks like you didn't quite get the signature thing. Maybe you didn't click save, it's not obvious. Here is what the page looks like (thanks Steve). For some reason it's in Account Settings even though it is actually a Profile thing (I spent 5 minutes looking through Profile to try to find it in the past). Makes no sense, it's not a setting. Anyway... Just type stuff in the box and click Save.
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It's not too difficult. A screw or two on the backside, some brake line fittings. If you're handy I think it might be possible to do without removing the shoes. Shoe installation is more difficult, with all of the springs and clips.
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Might be the fuel pump control relay. Nissan doesn't list the relay numbers so it's not clear what relay #25230 is. Also not clear why you decided to jump some pns on it, you must have some knowledge of the system. Another pump test you can try on a 78 is to remove the oil pressure sender wire from the sensor/switch. When you turn the key on the pump should get power. It will be a clue about at least one function of the system. There's a ton in the FSM about testing the relay, if you want to get in to that.
