Zed Head

Take the black cover off of the side of the AFM. It is just a press fit with some light sealant to hold it in place. There is a damper weight that moves with the AFM vane. If you move the weight the vane will move, and vice-versa. It should start moving as soon as the engine turns over.

I have a new thought. Maybe the AFM blade is sticking shut during the low air flow of starting. That would lower the injector open time, delivering less fuel. Maybe pop the cover off the AFM and watch it, or prop it open. Also possible that you have a vacuum leak that also allows air to bypass the AFM.

It's a good question and maybe Nissan had a plan for that. Easier to just measure what's actually happening though. As I mentioned above my engine started with no CSV at all. If the injectors weren't squirting there'd be no gas to start with. And there are no pins to the CSV or thermotime switch to the ECU. So, no way for the ECU to "know" if it's squirting. I think that the CSV is extra, added on top of injector fuel.

The relay numbers are pressed in to the fiber board bottom of the relay. Very difficult to see, but they are there. Sometimes the stamping is not too sharp. Bright light and good eyesight help.

If you're absolutely positive that the injectors aren't opening then that should be your focus. Check the Pin 1 circuit at the ECU. Maybe it has too much resistance or something weird happens during starting. Pin 1 is connected to the negative terminal of the coil so the ECU can "see" when the coil fires. On the module don't assume that new is good. 1978 does have "HEI" but the module I was talking about is the GM HEI module swap.

I had a problem once with a weak, not completely bad, ignition module. The spark was too weak during starting to fire gasoline, but would fire on starting fluid. Once it started it seemed to run okay, Probably low voltage during starting through a weakened ignition module. The module has to have good current through it to create good spark. I damaged the module by leaving some spark plug wires disconnected and starting the engine. Forgot to say that I did change the module to a new HEI module once I figured out that it was weak spark. Orange, not blue. The new module fixed it. So, if you're still baffled, trying the HEI module swap might be worth a shot. Pretty cheap and you can wire it up under the hood using spare wire pretty easily, as a quick test. These old modules die on a regular basis anyway, yours will eventually. Might as well be ready.

Unlikely. Not from Nissan anyway.

I'm just reading the words in the FSM.

I kind of lost track of your project or I would have said something. You need to make up 20 mm, ideally, not 10. Actually 22 mm, the magic number is 92 mm. Your old one must have been on the edge. At least you seem to be going the right way. Good luck.

Also, I never realized this and don't know how it's done, but, apparently, the thermotime switch is adjustable. Weird.

The ECU has nothing to do with the CSV. The CSV system is its own little separate control system, with power supplied to it and controlled via the thermotime switch. No ECU involvement, no coolant temperature sensor involvement. There is a "signal" that supposedly goes to the ECU, in the diagram, but many of us have realized that the ECU's don't have a wire to that pin. It seems to be a diagram mistake that Nissan never fixed. The thermotime switch is a thermally actuated relay that grounds through the switch body. Check the ground circuit. The wiring diagram can be confusing if you don't know that. There is power through a heater wire around a bimetallic strip, that opens and closes the relay contact points, and also power to the CSV injector. It's pretty ingenious but still looks crude. I removed my CSV and had delayed starting when it got colder or the car sat for a while. So I changed my starting procedure to giving the engine a good 5 or 6 revolutions on a first crank then letting it sit for about 20-30 seconds so the gasoline from the injectors could vaporize. Then it typically would start normally. You might try that as a test for or as a way to get by without starting fluid.

Was it set incorrectly? Gauge or sensor? They're not the same. I'd recheck your oil level, go drive it for a few hundred miles, and see where you're at.

Does the exhaust smell gassy or oily? There is a difference in odor between the two problems. What are the oil consumption numbers? If it's not leaking it's burning.

Maybe the older steel synchros.

Don't forget to look for cracks. I think that some of the attaching bolts can leak through the threads also. Seal the bolt threads.

The three way crimp splice looks like normal Nissan work, circa the 70's. Could be the dealers did it the same way. What the other wires do might be a clue to the blue wire's function. When it gets power.

Businesses will do whatever you ask them to do. I'll bet you have to sign a waiver when you get an aluminum wheel straightened. And just because the crack isn't big and obvious doesn't mean it's not there. Why did these wheels not just bend more instead of breaking? https://www.google.com/search?q=broken+aluminum+wheels&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&sxsrf=ACYBGNQMDCvAg6Cu8S0cuZ4kPm4a15AjhA:1570667879205&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj94__nuZDlAhWVuZ4KHQaRAM4Q_AUIEygC&biw=1600&bih=757

So you bled the system and still had the problem? Did the fork bottom out on the bellhousing hole when you tried to disengage before? That would have been a clue. If you haven't put it back together yet and are just going to try another collar anyway that's your prerogative. If I read your logic right and fill in some parts you're suggesting that you have the thinnest collar, the "A" type, and need the one that's a bit thicker? Seems reasonable. Maybe those thick pressure plate assemblies need all of that travel. The newer slave cylinders with the newer pressure plates don;t use the adjustable rod anymore. Don't need it, apparently.

I put a good gob of black silicone on it and reinstalled. I never got it back in the car but I did refill it with fluid and stand it on end to cover the hole with fluid. It didn't leak.

I had one that leaked at the clutch fork pivot ball. Its hole is a through-hole to the oil-wetted area. Someone must have removed it and reinstalled it without sealant. Took me a while to figure out. Oil leaked down the fork, through the boot. There's really no way for oil to get on to the fork except from the pivot ball

I don't see where you bled the hydraulics after the swap. With no fork holding it the slave can extend and get some air in it. I'd rebleed and be sure..89.5 is pretty close to 92. 92 is not a an exact requirement. Don't go crazy. If your new plate is exactly the same as the old one and you're using the same collar/sleeve just with a new bearing, then it seems like you might have a different problem.

Your fork looks right. Get A measurement. Diseazd gave the simple straight-up picture and I linked a bunch of threads about it. 92 mm is the key. No need to guess or put things back together without knowing. Put the stack together and measure from the surface the fork touches to the bottom of the pressure plate.

You can notify people by using the @borini63

You can notify people by using the @borini63

Also. to be sure, "engage" means the engine is moving the transmission shaft, via the clutch,and the car goes. "Disenage" is what happens when you press the pedal to put the car in gear. Your pictures seemed to describe disengagement problems.