Zed Head

Darn it, you locked in my grammar error. One the. It has the same mileage now as when it had dual filters. That's good, for the engine.

Do they always spin opposite the direction of rotation? Like the wheel is leaving them behind? Maybe they're actually "walking" due to vibration or flexing. That might show as unexpected spin direction. I have a board in a floor that slowly opens a gap on one end after many months of traffic. Must be something about the bumps on the bottom or in the groove that ratchet it over. I kick it back in to place with my foot and it slowly works its way back open. If the caps are walking you might be able to twist the clamping portion so the teeth aren't biting. Can't remember exactly how they clamp to the rim. I assume that you know they're spinning because the valve stems are suffering impingement.

One the "The 240Z Guild" cars is up on BaT again. It was sold on BaT in 2017 by The Guild then "reacquired" by The Guild in early 2019 then sold on BaT again in 2019. Now it's up on BaT again. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-29/ $26,500 https://bringatrailer.com/2018/01/13/bat-auction-success-story-regrets-reconciled-with-purchase-of-1972-datsun-240z/ Success story https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-108/ $50,000 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-362/

Almost 100% sure that the Nissan OEM pumps used the cast impeller, not the stamped steel. There are extensive discussions out there about which pumps best. So, I don't know if A is correct but I'd say that B is definitely incorrect. They both look pretty nasty. Are you thinking about using one of them?

Interesting that the 1978 260Z, U.K. version shipped to Australia, referenced a few posts back also has the bumper mounter signals even though the grill with the signals inset was introduced in 1975 in the 280Z. I guess that Nissan had a good thing going and just let it ride. Or maybe the big bumper grill didn't work with the small bumper. Or the new signals were still too hard to see. The height seems right.

Are these turn signals normal? They look pretty weird. Other markets got the inset signals?

Where did you get the parts? The grease is for inserting the seal in to its groove. Brake fluid is for sliding the piston through the seal. Oh well, the cars wouldn't be any fun if there wasn't something to fix on them.

Pretty cool. Odd that there's no fan shroud. Maybe because it doesn't get that hot in the U.K.? I've heard/read about the carb'ed European 260Z's, still around after EFI was introduced in the States. Never seen one.

If you have a caliper on the bench you might as well pop the piston out. Don't scratch the cylinder with the metal dust seal retaining ring. Images won't load but the Brake chapter describes it. Uploading Attachment... Uploading Attachment...

Not sure what you mean by two pieces. But if it's sitting on the bench then, obviously, there's an open port to atmosphere. No way to hold pressure. The piston should be easily moved by hand if the caliper is new or newly rebuilt and has had fluid in it. Or maybe not, re above. Where did you get the calipers? Might have a bad rebuild. Tight seals.

Opening the bleeder when the brakes are stuck will tell you if the problem is pressure in the caliper or something else. If there's pressure in the caliper you can work your way back to the the MC fitting by fitting. Or work your way down, from the MC. First you need to know if it's hydraulic pressure or just mechanical sticking.

Probably worthwhile to read the Brake Chapter. It's not long. Well-illustrated.

But, don't overlook the brake pressure warning switch. Or the NP valve. Can't remember the car. (https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/) It can get gummed up also. Uploading Attachment... Uploading Attachment...

The Nissan calipers use the rubber seal to retract the pistons. One common cause of sticking caliper pistons is collapsed rubber hoses. The MC can generate high pressure to push through the collapse but the rubber seal cannot to allow the pressure to release. It becomes like a check valve. On some cars the cause is a metal clamp on the hose that rustjacks and pinches the hose. But just degrading internal material can cause it also. I ould guess that a kink in the hose could cause it also.

If you can do this when the brakes are stuck it will tell you if the rod from the booster to the MC is too long, causing the return port in the MC to be blocked. You'll have to do it while things are still warm though. Patcon is implying that the air expands as it gets warm creating pressure in the system. They make a tool for setting the booster rod length. It's a fairly common problem, especially with rebuilt boosters. If you stare at the parts long enough you can figure out other ways to get it right.

I had a 1978 igntion switch with that problem. I was able to fix it by restaking the copper contact with a chisel. You'll need to remove the switch and disassemble it. Or, it could be that the mechanical portion is worn and not turning the electrical contact far enough. I fixed that on my 76 by putting some extra twist in the rod between the mechanical and electrical parts. Once you get the switch out and examine it you can test either possibility with a meter. Stole this from ZCarDepot to show the staked contacts. https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510 And here's the back side where the rod inserts.

It might help to add some detail about what this means. Are you saying that the starter does not spin the engine? It's just click, click, click, then spinning happens? Also, watch your gauges and the ammeter. If they all go dead, then come back to life that's a sign of a bad battery cable connection. The heat from the starter motor draw causes the bad connection to expand and open. Then it cools and closes. The small spade connection at the starter solenoid can be loose also. Same effect. I almost replaced a starter once, but instead just repinched that connector. It was loose.

The seller said he could see holes for an AC system. So he assumed that it had had AC. Who knows. It almost broke 100. 95. The winner didn't play the small bid game, every bid was a big jump. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-133/

Somebody bumped the bid on the white 1970. By an odd amount. The guy buys a lot of car so there could be an interesting battle on tomorrow. Does anyone know if a 1970 240Z could have a three groove damper pulley? It has an L28 crankshaft so the damper has been off. The sellers on BaT are interesting because they often don't really know the details but don't want to say "I don't know".

Does anybody want to guess on the final bid then? Will it break 100?

I have to guess then that this auction is for a select crowd that already knows that. I looked through all of the paperwork and the description and don't see Chuck's Frame Shop mentioned anywhere. Seems like it would be worth advertising. There is a Chuck mentioned, findable if a person looks closely, in one of the images. I guess that people in the resto world would know about him. It's a fascinating world. I don't live in it but it's fun to watch.

Are the seller and the restorer the same person? Chuck is Garage44?

Does this really mean that $71,970 was over Reserve? There's still four days left. Probably get no more bids. Posting for entertainment now. These high dollar auctions are usually interesting.

That big bid to $71,970, from a previous bid of $28,500, is still interesting. Like somebody that owns some already wants to be sure the "value" stays high. My cynical view. I don't think that seller understood the point of the question, of unfiltered air in to the newly rebuilt engine. Actually there isn't much discussion about the engine. Normally a Datsun Spirit engine would be a big deal. But it only cost about 8% of the bid value, so far.