Zed Head

What is it? I can only see bubbles in your picture. Is that a welded seam or a pipe fitting? Seems like Quickjack is overly confident in their manufacturing process. A leak in a pneumatic system is a pretty significant miss.

I had a switch from a parts car that had a problem and I was able to fix it by restaking the pins on the back. I tested it with a meter, after I had already taken the car apart, then started wiggling the pins and found that one was physically loose. In the parts car, which I had running for a while, the starter would catch then let loose as I tried to start the engine. Very annoying. I thought it was the starter but it seemed to actually be the switch.

The Quickjacks were dropped in to your thread with no introduction. They look interesting. Is this them - https://www.quickjack.com/

I think that one of your adapter plate bearings is bad. I don't think that the shaft should move back and forth like that. @EuroDat @zKars @Dave WM

I thought he meant jump at the battery. It's sounding like he meant he jumped the solenoid, bypassing the ignition switch. More words would have helped.

On further thought I'm not sure about my post above. The sleeve and hub mate around the full circumference, the gear teeth mesh at a single point around the circumference. So a noise that changes with RPM would have to be related to the mesh point of the gears. I think. Anyway. Another quick way to get a look is to drain the fluid. The stuff that comes out will tell a story. Looks like you must have drained it, was there anything there?

Sounds like something on/in the coupling sleeve and hub gears. Could be a chunk stuck in the teeth or a broken tooth. The shafts and main bearings are all shared between and the gears themselves are constantly meshed so a gear problem should be heard all the time. Only the coupling sleeve and hub meshes when you select a new gear. Although, there is a needle bearing under each gear that might deflect under load. Others have more transmission experience. Seems like you'll need to take it out and apart though to know for sure.

Can you add some detail? Are you saying that the clunking rate is constant despite RPM? How can that be? Does it continue to clunk if you're in 3rd with the clutch pedal down, car not moving? Or does it only happen when the car is rolling? Clunk is not very descriptive, even with the awful added.

Should have put this in your first post. You did the classic "selective information disclosure" in your first post and sent everyone off on a path they would not have followed if they had known.

When you jump it you're putting outside power directly to the cable ends. Kind of sounds like dirty cable end to battery post connections. When the current from the starter motor (lots of amps) hits them the corrosion heats up and expansion opens the connection. Then it cools down and closes and will pass enough current to run lights and things. Very common, many starters have been replaced because of it.

You didn't even tell people what year car you're working on. Had to go dig to find it. Is it the 1972 shown on your profile? I only see 5 wire ends, of unknown colors (stripes matter), except for the black one. Can't be too hard. Good luck.

Orange classic 72. But he has urethane on the front. Somebody tell him. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-183/

I have a memory of there being two short bolts and two long ones, of the four across the top. Maybe you got a short one in a long hole. And, if it is the right bolt but it is stripped, maybe there are usable threads left at the bottom of the hole, that a longer bolt will grab.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm

I've used JB Weld on a pinhole leak on a Pathfinder. It was still seeping as I pressed the glob on to the hole. Worked for a few years then I removed it and reapplied. If it had been completely dry probably would have worked forever. They even wrote up a procedure for it. https://www.jbweld.com/projects/gas-tank-repair

That picture you show is from the tail housing, not the front case. It's the "reverse check sleeve". Four speed front cases/bells will work also. You might have to drill a new hole for the reverse switch. Easier to find a four speed case.

A strange story. The damage is already done. https://www.keprtv.com/news/local/kennewick-family-changes-stance-on-vaccine-after-getting-covid-19

Might be the wrong bolts for the holes. I think there might three different lengths. Found a thread - Post 80 on...

Found one of the old MM threads. Post 36 on.

Pretty sure that it was realized a while ago that most motor mounts come from the same place. You can get them at your local parts store. The good ones come with the nuts tacked on. The others just have holes and you have to supply hardware. Might be worth a trip to the local store to see what's what. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engine-parts---mounts/engine-mounts/engine-mount/31470ece703c/v/a/6635/automotive-car-1976-nissan-280z?q=motor+mount'

Did you confirm that the ground is good? Did you try the key in the ignition to see if the buzzer works?

The description is hard to read. Very clunky and awkward. Trying too hard I think. Interior, AC, interior again, more AC, more interior. The cabin features seating that is said to have been recovered in black with a matching dashboard, door panels, and replacement carpets. Amenities include ARA air conditioning, a refurbished center console, three-point seat belts, an analog clock, and a push-button AM/FM radio. The air conditioning is said to have been recharged using Enviro-Safe hydrocarbon-based refrigerant, and cracking is noted on the dashboard and is depicted in the photo gallery below.

His machinist told him he needed 0.080". That's the bigger issue, I think. What is the guy doing.

Connect them to ground. One will make the door open/key-in-ignition buzzer buzz annoyingly, the other should make the dome light light. The dome light should also light just by pressing one side of it. Although that's a good way to destroy the plastic cover. They tend to be brittle.

I wrote some stuff then did a Google and realized that there's something odd about your problem. 0.120" doesn't even seem to be OEM. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2041A