Zed Head

Limish colored 73 4 speed. Don't they know that limes are green? Arizona survivor. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-139/

Maybe they took the spark plugs out.

The 71 towel bar sold for $16,000. It had some rust, it's probably been to the beach a few times. South Carolina. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-166/

New 72 on Beverly Hills Car Club site. Not horrible, still pricey. $14,750. https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1972-datsun-240z-c-12249.htm

That's only 0.1", not a lot. I think that the thin flanges are typically 3/8" (.375"). MSA should be able to tell you the thickness of theirs. It's a big selling point. They work best if you call them. Old school guys.

Beverly Hills? Hmmm. #64? That would be a find. http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/155244-awesome-240z-240-z-super-rare-low-vin-series-1-original-collector-trade-.html EXPORT, NO PROBLEM... ATTENTION COLLECTORS!! VIN # 0064!!! The 51st Z imported to the U.S. I am a Z collector and will be offering some of my more rare and sought after cars for sale in the coming weeks... This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition Original -

Check this one out. Same ad copy, different color car, even has a hood scoop thing. http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/224571-awesome-240z-240-z-super-rare-low-vin-series-1-hot-rod-collector-trade-.html This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition. Classic Series 1 Z car has been amazingly well preserved and nicely restored. This is a very collectible early Z. Your ad https://www.classifiedads.com/cars/w12w6kfx73zb7 This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition. Classic Series 1 Z car has been amazingly well preserved and nicely restored. This is a very collectible early Z

The ad copy looked familiar to me also. I searched the first sentence and found several similar ads, even using the same odd capitalization. https://www.google.com/search?q=This+is+a+Super+Rare%2C+Original+Ultra-Low+Vin+Series+1+240Z+in+extremely+nice&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=This+is+a+Super+Rare%2C+Original+Ultra-Low+Vin+Series+1+240Z+in+extremely+nice&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The ad web site and the transaction company both seem sketchy to me. Why not use eBay and Paypal? Bigger audience, proven transaction company. Why use a company in Buffalo, and sell the car in Sacramento? Plus Peter Bateman is out of country? I wouldn't do it, myself. It might be legitimate, but I'd need a lot more pictures of the typical rust areas to even consider it. I'd assume the sale is "you get what you see". There's a lot unseen, for that money. https://www.buffalosalesllc.com/why.php

Are there bubbles actually in the reservoirs? There are other things that can make bubbly noises. The windshield washer reservoir is there. Not clear where exactly the noise is coming from. Might be coming from inside the booster if the booster has brake fluid inside. Vacuum releasing through a fluid puddle. That is bad, the booster is supposed to hold vacuum for a while.

Here you go. Mike showed this link a while ago. You can watch it coming. Blue is cold, purple is colder. https://www.windy.com/-Temperature-temp?temp,40.814,-98.350,4

I missed this part. Site was right, but I think he meant master cylinder. The missing fluid is probably in your brake booster. Your master cylinder has failed, maybe due to cold or just high miles or both. Easy fix. You should take the booster off too, and drain it and clean it out before the brake fluid ruins the diaphragm. Don't drip the fluid on your paint it will leave a stain.

Is it cold there? I'll bet the seals in the MC hardened up and shrank in the cold. There are two seals to create pressure and and a seal at the back to keep the fluid in the MC. Your pressure seals have failed, I think. A heat gun might bring them back, who knows. That would be a sign. https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.63839000000007&lon=-92.11855999999995#.YCm31WhKiM8

Might be that the splines alone (inside the yoke) were enough to stop the serious vibration but the seal movement outside was too much. Thanks to the guys that found that Omega bushing. I had never actually seen it. They call it out specifically for the 71C but it looks like Nissan used the same dimensions all the way back to 71B, at least. So, the last questions is - what the heck happened to the original bushing?

I think that hole on the bottom is probably correct, not sure though. Might not matter. Maybe the top lets fluid in? Maybe the bottom lets it out? p.s. I did a Google and found this, which makes sense. Your 4 speed probably doesn't have an "oil supply" groove so it probably doesn't matter. https://www.allfordmustangs.com/threads/t5-tailshaft-bushing-oil-hole-orientation.327137/ How about vibration? One reason I didn't think it was the bushing was because of the vibration that you'd expect if it was so loose that the seal couldn't seal. But, apparently I was wrong. That's a lot of movement, you'd expect the yoke to be rattling around in there when the car is moving.

Did you try it on the slip yoke first? Just curious. Looks like a good bushing, meant for the job. Did you put the hole at the bottom? And, could you post a picture with the bushing in? Then we'll have before and after for any future visitors. Even better, if you have the time and patience, a another video showing proper yoke/bushing play. Good luck.

I think that the "remaining pulleys" are actually the damper itself. It's a slight interference fit on the crankshaft, with a key. You might need a damper puller to remove it. Don't pull on the outer metal pulleys, they're attached to the hub via rubber. The damping material. A damper puller threads in to the hub and pulls from there.

California Datsun used to be Datsun Parts Limited. The guy that owns the business is named Al. He has a membership on this site as URGELIS. You can search the name on this site, and the former company name on the internet to learn more about him. His old business had a bad reputation for selling defective parts then refusing to make things right. Notice that he does not really address the major concerns with the headers. The port shape and the flange thickness. He does not show photos of either either, just s single photo of the view that doesn't tell much, with a universal shaped gasket. Get on to Rock Auto and compare things like distributors with the same parts on his site. Compare prices. https://www.californiadatsun.com/headers/datsun-nissan-z-240z-280z-n42-p90-e88-header.html

You do kind of have to admire his persistence. He has his game, and he just keeps playing it. He didn't show the dash VIN plate either. I wonder if it's one of those Frankenstein Z's now.

The driver's door is hanging a bit low, but the front gap looks close. Looks like somebody rattle-canned the front lower corner of the passenger door. Shouldn't you be able to see the engine bay ID tag in his picture of that shock tower? Blaster coil, fancy dual tipped exhaust, the rear end panel has been painted. Some kind of paper smuggling going on in the rear hatch lip area. Lots of not-quite-right. I'd want to see the firewall VIN. He must know about it, as a "Z collector". Interesting car. Of course, it won't be sold, per 01 usual.

That's harmony01 from eBay.

My imagination says that seal is not actually tight on the slip yoke. Can't really tell from the video. I notice that the aluminum seal seat is kind of dinged up also. Could it be that the tail shaft housing is cracked, or gouged? There are two sealing surfaces, one at the yoke and one at the housing surface itself. I used to have several shafts and transmissions out in the garage but don't now, otherwise I'd be out there comparing slop. Maybe somebody here can do that. And, more spitballing, there seems to be a lot of fluid up at the front of the dust cover. Still wondering where, exactly, the fluid is leaking from. Last one - the yoke seems like it should be seated farther in to the transmission. That would affect how much support the bushing gives it. Might be an illusion because the dust deal has been removed, but usually the shaft dust seal inserts in to the transmission dust seal. Your propeller shaft looks too short. There is a short version of the shaft out there that was used on the very early 71's. 1 1/2" shorter, I think. Is the shaft fully installed in the car or did you just stick it in there for the video? And, what happened to the dust seal?

Never heard of this brand, but it looks like an Italian Pantera. 351 V8 Ford engine, Italian styling. Z car + Corvette = 1971 Intermeccanica Italia Coupe. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-intermeccanica-italia/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-02-13 Weird antenna. Looks like a light pole.

It's still there. You have to hover over the picture, then see the little arrow things, then click on an arrow. These web site designers get so clever that they make their own work useless.

Somebody on the forum used one of these depth setting tools. They're pretty simple and you get it right the first time. You could probably make your own. https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/power-brake-booster-depth-gauge-tool