Zed Head

Compression rod, but T/C rod is the common name. It sees tension or compression when the wheel is pushed back or pulled forward (edit - actually vice-versa). The video does fit that part as a possibility since it happens when the wheel hits the curb. They're known to break also. The nut in the back could be loose. p.s. you can see it and reach down and grab it, from the engine bay. It's right there.

So close!

It looks like it's just a run-of-the-mill relay. Three wires. Any common relay could be wired in. You can take the factory relays apart also. You might find that it can be cleaned up and function restored.

77 2+2 4 speed R200. Odd combo. Looks in decent shape. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-22-8/

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

An open valve might cause intake popping. The valve lash gets tighter also as the engine warms up. So it seems possible that a valve or two might not seat fully as the engine warms up. Just for clarity, these engines often get what people call "front-fire" or intake system popping. Backfire usually means popping out of the exhaust pipe. I'm guessing the noise is from the intake manifolds/carbs?

It won't affect it at all. But it's not looking like you need to move it. And the engine should still run well even with cam timing off. Have you set ignition timing? Can't really tell which notch on your damper the pointer is pointing at but, actually, everything looks pretty good. Backfiring could be lean mixture, or incorrect ignition timing, or flattened cam lobe. First thing I'd do is get a timing light and set timing to 10 degrees. Also, make sure that your firing order is correct on the distributor cap, since you've been working there.

Check the exhaust manifold temperature, one end is probably cold. Front or back.

The sound. Compare.

Do you have a picture of the timing mark on the damper? Like site said your timing would have to be way way off to have the notch over there, if you're on TDC.

I don't hear all six, but not bad. Lots of work ahead but at least you know it will probably move once you fix all of the other stuff.

Here's another video that might be interesting. Shows the combined points and condenser. https://www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/set-point-gap-dwell-013696/#

Hard to see through the rust and grime but as you say the 240Z condenser is outside the cap, and connected to the points system. Older US cars used to have them inside. Found a 240Z video that looks promising.

Another silver car, a one owner 77 5 speed. I'm going to guess reserve not met. Too many silver cars lately. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-52/

Not clear why a person would distort the line of the cylinder, the three passages, that the spindle pin passes through in an attempt to make a poorly designed aftermarket piece of polyurethane fit. These aftermarket urethane parts sellers just looked around the car and made shapes that looked similar to any rubber that they found. I'd focus on modifying the aftermarket parts to fit the original design of the suspension components. The Nissan engineers put a lot more time and effort in to that than the PU parts guys did designing those little PU bits. Edit - No offense intended to any opinions ventured so far. I've just spend some time wondering "who designed this thing" in the past.

Pills and a stupid little hat.

The cable labeled as ground here is connected to the battery negative post. https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-performance-technical-124/electrical-gremlins-30669/

I think that your yellow arrow just points to an extra ground for the distributor. It should also ground through the mounting points. Sorry, but I already said where to put the probes. "Ground" is any part of the body or engine block or whatever that has a circuit back to the negative post of the battery. Have you put the black cable from the battery negative post back on, attached to a starter bolt or transmission bolt? I think that you might be moving too fast, thinking that what you're doing is easy and you'll soon hear the sound of that engine running. Maybe stop and think a bit about what people have recommended. It''s not one simple thing to do before the engine starts and runs. It's many small things. Hate to be a buzz-kill but you have a ways to go.

Shawninoneofthevancouvers you need to start using that meter.

Expanding the venue. Hope nobody minds. Brad's big brain. Makes me hungry.

Anybody seen it? Pretty sure I left it here...

If you have your friend spin the engine while you watch the points you'll see how they open and close. Here's a video. Go to about 1:30.

One probe to either the plus or the minus terminal and one to ground. You can also open and close the points by hand with the center coil wire close to ground and you should see a small spark at the points and a big one at the center wire. In your picture the points are closed. Just reach in there and open them up. Each time you open them you should get a spark at the center wire terminal.