Zed Head

Here's an example of the aftermarket parts. I'd just use the factory rubber. Better ride. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6397113&cc=1209226&pt=7532&jsn=448

The factory bushing is rubber formed around a metal tube. Aftermarket PU replacements are a separate tube with two PU bushings. The factory part has metal teeth on the ends of the metal tube. Looks like the rubber might have left your bushing. The tube can be difficult to remove from the control arm. Big pliers or vise-grips might be necessary. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-bushing-rear-55555e4100

Uh oh. It looks like the clamping bracket has fallen off. You can see the threaded hole for the bolts. You'll need the bracket and the bolts. @Terrapin Z might have what you need. Parts 70, 46, and 47. Bracket, washer, bolt. Here's a few pictures from BaT. What should be there. Better check the front also, looks like it's loose or gone also, allowing the displacement. The diff mount crossmember does the job up there.

Leave the hose off and run the fuel pump by removing the starter solenoid wire and turning the key to Start. See if any liquid comes out of the nipple.

That sounds like a blown/cracked diaphragm in the FPR. Take the vacuum hose off of the FPR and see if it's wet with gas.

This is a not uncommon sign of a failing ignition module. Get ready...

It should mean that. The 78 TIU uses a plug so you should be able to just take a look and see if it's unplugged. If it's still there, I'd leave it just in case you need to go back to it. I'd also take a look at how the Energy-Pak is wired in, for future reference. It pays to be prepared with these old cars.

Be careful -

That must be one of the very earliest. There's nothing on the internet about that specific part number. Wouldn't be a surprise if it was starting to fail, like most old electronics systems do. Here's some general Jacobs stuff. I don't think the company lasted long. Looks like some of the kits came with a toggle switch to control a solenoid. Some sort of "high current" control. https://www.ebay.com/itm/168526052023?_skw=Jacobs+Energy+Pak https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/jac-forddis.pdf https://itstillruns.com/instructions-jacobs-electronics-energy-pak-7946376.html https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sanity-check-on-jacobs-ignition.1338701/

Just the coil or the complete unit? That looks like a pretty standard coil for electronic ignition. A little low on primary resistance for a 280Z ignition system but not terrible. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/JAC-380672T

@EuroDat might have some thoughts.

I installed my plug wires in backwards rotational order once and the engine started but ran like you-know-what. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise is correct. It must have been running on two cylinders, I'd guess. I was surprised. 1-4-2-6-3-5

There are other possibilities. Maybe somebody overcleaned the case mating surface at the adapter plate. Maybe the countershaft drive gear isn't fully seated. Maybe the countershaft itself is not pulled back all the way by the nut. I don't know what stops the shaft when you tighten the nut. I didn't read through the assembly procedure to see how the various steps are checked. I've had some transmissions apart but have not rebuilt any. Just tossing some things out there to think about.

Any chance the bearing is not fully seated on the gear?

That might be because the wire is not seated fully in the cap.

Garden flies

Sounds pretty cool. I was posting more for the planner type people out here that might want to know what they'd need to do the conversion and what they're getting. Personally, I like to have a complete picture in my head, and a list of parts I'll need, before I even start buying. Some things seem like they must already be defined/known. Why not just supply the information? Part number and length. A person could give the info to a good driveshaft shop and have it ready to go. (p.s. Nissan calls it a propeller shaft). "Additional Components RequiredTo complete the installation the following components are required: Custom driveshaft with the correct transmission yoke and length" Here's a link to Nostalgic Hero. Japan seems like a fun place. https://nosweb.jp/nostalgichero

Did you disconnect the old ignition module by the fuse box? You might have dueling ignition modules. The 123 has its own internal ignition module. Give some detail on your car. Has it ever run right for you?

This Thursday post just popped up in the middle of some more recent posts. How does that work? It's on the "Topics Last Thirty Days" page. /112/ @Mike

I wonder if anyone has installed one yet. Would be interesting to see one of the S30.world cars with it in place. They have a good set of pictures on the page. Interesting that the clutch fork pivot ball is not included. And, what is the threaded hole next to the pivot ball boss? Would also like to see the aluminum transmission mounts. Is it the full crossmember or an adapter for the existing crossmember? And, information on the slip yoke would be good to have. Apparently, the slip yoke from the 71B transmssions won't work? Looks like a good price for a good product. Something to talk about... https://shop.s30.world/product/nismo-32010-rrs50-reinforced-6-speed-transmission-to-l-series-conversion-kit

Different ends of the originality spectrum. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-403/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-370/

Not clear which side you're measuring from. This illustration might help. Don't overlook that there are two power circuits - one for Start, one for Run. Might be worth checking and cleaning up the ballast resistor connections. Also notice that full ignition power runs through the ignition switch, apparently (I've never worked on a 72). From the 1972 FSM -

This is pretty funny.

https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-user-guide-threadlocking.pdf You're right, permanent is probably best. Don't want the insert backing out on a starter removal. Blue for the bolts, red for the insert.

What type of insert are you using? Blue thread locker is probably enough. Red is for extreme situations. I used to run a long hose with a funnel from the engine bay down to the transmission fill hole. Just fill it to overflow. A little messy but not as messy as those screw-on pumps can be by the time you get done.