Zed Head

Wrong year.

Got my threads mixed up. Posting 71 info in a 70 thread that has been converted to 73. Never mind.

Here's a recent post about the Z and ZX damper pulleys. Never thought about it until now but if the pulley is bigger it will raise the alternator speed, helping the low voltage at idle problem that a lot of Z's have. Maybe everyone should switch to a ZX pulley.

I think that the dampers are a different size and you'd need a timing marker to match but a ZX damper and pulleys might be easier to find and might be workable. And, another vague memory, I think that some of the AC pulleys were removable. So your thought of bolting one on should work if you can find one and the holes are there.

If you try the things suggested and decide that you need that part then breaking/filing off the extra ear should be fine. Still interesting that you have a one-eared switch. Probably works just like the two-eared.

Have you tried working it with a screwdriver while it's open? Sometimes it's the mechanical part not the electrical switch. I've never seen a one-eared switch. Wonder if there are other differences you need to consider.

To jump a circuit just means to connect two things, in electrical terms. A jumper wire is the wire used to connect two points in a circuit. So when w3 says just jumper the blue taped connector he means connect it to some other point. Probably a power source. I don't know, exactly, what to jump it to either, but, apparently, the wire that heads back to the pump area is in that blue taped bundle. All these words and just a fraction closer. Might as well find that naugahyde wrapped blue taped bundle. You'll be even closer.

I almost added something about the Owners Manual but didn't. Didn't want to get too wordy and thought the FSM might have it. That's where the full diagrams are for some reason. Page 37. Edit - actually I didn't post the link to the diagram because he's looking for the actual harness connections. Best to just stick your head up under the dash and poke and pull and follow. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/17-owner-manuals/

You might find something in the Electrical chapter of the FSM. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/9-factory-service-manuals/

The first one looks safer, a smoother transition to the guide. You might catch that edge with the second setup. That is the loose side, with the crankshaft pushing the chain off the sprocket. It only sees the tension of the oil pressure powered tensioner, and the inertia of the moving chain. It doesn't get pulled straight like the drive side. In the first setup if you took your finger and pushed on that kinked link would it push inward and make a smoother curve? That's what it's going to do when the engine is running. Plus you'll get some wear immediately on the chain and the guides that will change things.

You could have leveled the bottom of the oil pan and used your angle gauge on the top of the head or block. Or leveled the top of the head and put your angle gauge on the bottom of the oil pan. Actually, you can still do that. Anyway. Why do you need the angle?

Just realized that you can get the angle from the oil pan also. The bottom ends up parallel with the floor of the ground. Assuming a perfect world.

Here's a picture.

Might work but it will leave a streak on his window, then dry up pretty quickly. Plus, any water that runs by will absorb the fluid and carry it away. Works on tires though.

All engines tend to run rich when cold, and the engines without O2 sensors tend to run richer because there's no feedback to the ECU to make things as lean as possible. And that's why your car has a floor temperature warning light. Converters get hot when they see too much unburned fuel. It's always going to spit black water when the engine is cold. Put a piece of carpet back there to collect the drips. It's normal.

Can't really find a place to put "loose wire" and make sense. Re-read the thread tomorrow after some sleep and see what you get out of it. "So it has to be a ground "loose wire" somewhere not sending the proper output to the coil. "? Still doesn't work. Loose wires don't send outputs either.

The wires are already connected. They attach to the same piece of metal. Nissan used the ballast resistor as a convenient place to create a terminal block.

You write very confidently, but the statement makes no sense. Grounds don't send outputs. And the video was neat but no idea what it was meant to show. I saw a good spark. The engine sounded pretty smooth for 5 cylinders. Lots of other things can affect individual cylinders. Valve lash, valve sealing quality, compression, bad plug wires... Good luck.

Check the ground from the module itself to the distributor body and from the distributor body to the engine ground. The ignition module needs a good solid ground so that it can pass the current needed to charge the coil. Most distributors have their own ground wire terminal, not sure if the ZX's did. A black wire from ground to distributor body. You don't need the ballast resistor but with that coil you should get better than you got with points. You could also have problems inside the distributor. They are known to break their stator magnets, and/or have the shaft bushing go bad causing air gap problems.

Don't take it apart if you find out it's bad and don't want to fix it yourself. I wonder if @Zs-ondabrain is still out there somewhere.

Ouch. The key to getting the drive (propeller) shaft nuts off is to have a nice little wrench (12 point is good) that will fit a nut and butt up against the body while you use a long lever (screw driver) in the u-joint to turn the shaft. Fit the wrench on the nut, with the wrench wedged against the body, then turn the shaft itself to break the nut loose. Once it's free you can usually turn it by hand.

same colors?

You'll want to check the flatness and quality of the surface on the head. Maybe have both surfaces skimmed. There's another Datsun site out there with a couple of guys that say they don't use any gasket at all. They just mill both surfaces and bolt it up. They say it works but who knows. Anyway, the head surface is often overlooked.

What was the particulate matter made of? Blowing out the 280Z high pressure fuel filters is a quick emergency fix. But replacing them with new is the right way. They have a pleated element inside that isn't going to clean up by using backward flowing air. There is one main supply line from the tank. I'd get underneath and inspect it to see if it's damaged. If it's not, maybe just buy a new filter and run it. They're cheap and your local parts store might have them. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel---emissions-16775/carburetors---parts-16801/fuel-filter-water-separator-12305/6bf814fc80d2?q=fuel+filter https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200

Removing a broken stud from the exhaust manifold is one of the hardest jobs I've done, even with it out, locked down for torquing on, and massive heat. Splitting the nut after you get room might be the best option to avoid future pain, since you're removing the engine anyway. Or just cutting the pipe in a good spot for welding on a new system. Especially if the flange isn't leaking. Those flanges can be difficult to get sealed sometimes.