Terrapin Z

240Z strut mounts, they have two angles, whereas the 280 is just one angle. I looked at my parts cars just now. 280 tail light holes. No fake floor mounts. Looks like a full size spare hole indeed. 280 hood vents. 240 rear bumper indents. Kind of a mash up.

The local Olympia WA dealer has a Datsun tab in their website that lists a lot of still available parts. I still look up parts on CPM to get my own numbers then enter them in the search window. It always surprises me what is still available. https://www.nissanparts.cc/c-datsun-51

Aside from my "all the time" tool kit, which includes some basics like bailing wire, zip ties, a bag of nuts and bolts, fuses, and a length of para cord. I have a Alt. belt, a cap and rotor, points and condenser, a set of plugs. Then if I have been working on any particular part I might bring related items for that. I.E. I rebuilt a 606.52 distributor to replace my 612.52, So for a 200 mile drive I led for my Z club last weekend, I had the old distributor and parts and tools related to that. Including a timing light. No issues arose on the drive. If everything seems to be working I will remove those items for future drives. I always have my AAA card though. 😅

Dean at Datsunparts does sell nice stuff and even works with shops that will make parts to his spec's. Mostly for Roadsters, but some parts for Z's as well. I would agree that these are new.

For what it is worth I checked my 78 280Z dash and did not see anything like those brackets.

You are correct, it looks like upto Vin 21001 had the 140 gauge and sender.

CB radio mount for the glovebox??🤣😂

Only the early 70 cars went to 140 (10 bar) everything after that was 90 (6 bar) Here is the other font I found so far. 77-78 280Z. The temp starts at 120, no mid line either.

As @Zed Head stated there were different fonts on the gauges. I see at least two in my stock. The earlier cars seem to have a tall narrow "O" for the word oil. Whereas the later cars 280's look to have a more round "O" The other letters are different too I just used the O as an example. There maybe more differences in the early cars, so If you are interested in a replacement, perhaps you can snap a pic of your gauge to compare.

I looked at my gauges and the are paired as Temp / Oil Pressure on the left of the three. The middle is Amp / and Fuel. The Right side being the clock. You put the Temp and Fuel together. Can you clarify? I may have some used gauges I can part with.

To check it you would need to pull the master off. Then dig the spring/locking washer out. Carefully pull the push rod / piston out and see if the round disc is still on the rod or in the hole where the plunger sits. If it has fallen off you then have to pull the whole booster and shake it for confirmation of the disc being in there. If it is keep shaking and check the plunger hole till you can see it and grab it with needle nose pliers. I glued mine to the plunger to avoid future issues. When in the proper place it won't move. just when the plunger moves outward do these issues occur. I had a rebuilt booster from MSA do this before installation and it took a while to figure out. The pushrod "nut" on my new booster was too short and I had to swap out my old long "nut" to even get the rod to reach the M/C. You can see the longer "nut" in this picture, as well as how the reaction disc sits (or falls off). I hope you can get this resolved.

When you started mentioning the brake pushrod, my mind went to the reaction disc. If it has dislodged you would have some free play there. Just another thought.....

It should be something like A11600000 or A11601000 Those were the early 280 numbers. But like ZedHead says they all really work regardless. (75-78) Lot numbers don't really matter at all either. I have a few I would sell.

I have a core F54 with a P79 ready to pull out. I just don't know about shipping it. The last motor I tried to ship tuned out to be a nightmare.

Here are the two heat shields The small one is the vertical one. I had always thought it was to shield heat from the master cylinder. I do have one if your looking. I have the radiator shrouds too. Maybe a belly pan.

One thought would be that you might have the front calipers on the wrong sides, easy to do and puts the bleeder on the bottom of the calipers. That orientation would cause both issues you mentioned. Bleeders need to be up. No disrespect but some thing plausible. I am not sure if you can reverse the rears but same issue with the bleeders up.

@dtejada I have an earlier switch box that looks just like your late one. as far as the rocker part and metal box part. (in pictures) It has the blade connectors at the plug, yours are round. The only difference I see is the wires on yours are a larger gauge (and round). You could unsolder them and swap them that way.

Much better picture, I can look through what I have and get back to you.

I had purchased about 5 broken headlight switches a while back as parts pieces. I am not sure what years they all are from. Perhaps one might have the component you need.

I used "280Z vacuum hose route" then used the images.

Google can be helpful if you put in creative words for your query. It bought me back to a thread here on CZCC

From another thread. The charcoal canister looks to be capped on the one you questioned. I also think the first one "anti stall dash pot" is just vented to atmosphere. I drive a 240Z with carbs so I could be wrong😅

I see the 600 has missing pin outs, whereas the 601 has all the pins. I did not look to see if they are all in use inside though.

I have some ECU's an A11-600-000 and A11-601-000 Charts seem to be all over the place as to what cars they were in. MT and AT I have no way to test them but they are visually undamaged.

I seem to remember you pulled a bunch of parts back out of the pile. Just couldn't part with them I suppose. I still dug around just to be sure and I don't have any transmission parts. I do have two of the early 5 speeds and a late ZX one (not counting the 5-6 4speeds)