Terrapin Z

My money is on the red wire in the dizzy. Grounded.

https://www.bczregistry.com

I don't like the look of the red wire attached to the points the metal part there is grounded, the there is a sandwich of fiber washers and the wire should not touch the middle plate. When the points are open there should be no ground contact through the moving part of the points to the terminal through the red wire to where the black wire goes on the flat terminal. I still also suggest using a plug wire like off Number 6 with an old plug in it directly from the coil wire hole (well seated). then rest the metal part of the plug against the head. The spark should jump the plug gap when working correctly.

I know it seems a simple thing but make sure the coil wire is going all the way into the coil. The rubber cap can slip down when removing and if you don't reseat it it will not make the connection. Pull the cap back and confirm the two metal bits are contacting fully. Then check spark. You can also take one of the plug leads and put it in the coil hole again seated, then put a plug in the other end and rest the plug on the head, crank it and check for spark. If you do have a bad coil wire it will give you another confirmation the wires are is or isn't the problem.

That one you linked to at ZCD is too small for the hatch lock. It is for the early Series One fuel door latch. Apparently ZCD didn't offer one my bad ^^ I tried MSA and they list one but it is out of stock. (discontinued, same at Nissan) I do have this one, as you can see it is the largest clip on the car. A little clean up needed.

Second line in my post. The motor and transmission are rubber mounted.

CPM shows all the same part number for the clip 240-280 Part number 96809-19700 = discontinued I have some used ones, but the ZCD one should work fine too.

Well BC is out of range for me. There is a great group of Z peeps in the BC Z car club. Perhaps search them out. My thoughts were that I don't see a chassis ground off your battery. Negative should go to that bolt in the firewall behind the battery. Cleaned up of course. Also can you confirm the loss of ground when opening the points? a lot of time the wire is not in the isolator connector and is grounded out there. Third is the coil wire metal clip getting all the way down to the metal in the distributor. Sometimes the cap keeps it up too high to make contact. These have been basic common problems I see in this type of set up. The vid you posted is what we all expect to find in an old barn find car. A simple clean up and it works just fine. Points are very basic and have been around for a long time. Electronic ignition from this era was far worse to get working. IMHO. You can gap point with a matchbook and a nail file

It sure sounds like you are close on this issue, I live up in the Chehalis area and have some time tomorrow to come down and see if I can help. No guarantees but maybe a second set of eyes on the issues could help. I can bring my test tools and some spare parts to swap and test. If you have time and would like the help PM me with the address and info.

At least we have it sorted out. It was $2.05 for the bushing at the Nissan dealer I use.

OR I might be on the wrong piece, the shift selector has a bushing. As shown in my picture. The bushing is still available from Nissan # 34552-89900

They call #18 a parking rod assy. 57 and 58 just say nut and washer.

Something in here??.....

I like to think I know about the differences in the years on the S30's but like you said sometimes you don't see the forest for the trees. I didn't note the later M/C either.

Sorry about that CO, the car had been frankencared at some point in it's life, I bought it for the early parts that are on there but not everything is original year wise.

I have this one on HLS30-00903.

Thanks for the notification. It sounds like HH is looking for a generic replacement spring. I may still have some stock ones but they would of course be used.

Just thought I would share this picture as I came off a hill early in the morning on the way to a club (ZCCW) drive. That's Mount Rainier looking from Cooks Hill in Chehalis WA. All in all it was a fun 300 mile drive this day.

I dug up a short one that matches the long one in number (9), hex head size, and patina. It is included in my PM response, Capt.

That lower bolt looks like something off a 1920's Ford. Too much shank too.

Let me know if I can help you out. I have a large tub of bolts. Patina style.....

No captive washers no flange or recessed head. Just 9 in the 1.5 and 7 on the 1.25.

Odd, my M10 "7" bolts are all 1.25 thread, and my 1.5 thread bolts are all "9" bolts I'll look at some more, but so far it is the same on a big handful of bolts.

Pretty close....

Agreed, that pic was from Hybrids. The first was a JDM site selling the seal. It does not look like the cutaway part is as tall on the replacement piece. Placing it over the gap seems like it would be more useful, than starting at the gap.