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New member and not today but last week I meet up with other owners and more at a rally called Tokyo Calling. Lots of Z owners and a great drive through the wind country in Sonoma, CA. Here is a shot of a few of us at the end of the drive.

I like that additional documents/photos can be posted in the ad: https://downloads.ctfassets.net/x8mrk904j4k6/3Zs8lzU5xie53bmNV1wxub/0742bd63f493bbe027d7154f1247cf38/Restoration_Photos.pdf I wish that you could filter and view just the completed auction results though. You would think Hagerty would see the value of having recent and past sale results available. After all, they do tout their Valuation Guide, and nothing better than real world results.

The oil jets (restrictors) are designed to maintain pressure to the lower end. It's a balance between top and bottom. If everything is to spec. it might be that the bottom end clearances are too loose and bleeding off the pressure. Maybe you're looking at the wrong parts. Maybe the low flow at the top is a sign of too much at the bottom. Could also be that you have a restriction from the jet to the spray bar. Through the head, in to the towers, and then to the bar. A new spray bar wouldn't fix that.

The oil jet on the front of the block is actually a supply (from the head) to the chain tensioner, so you only need consider opening up the side one. AIUI, the jet is there to ensure adequate pressure to the bearings. The flow should be enough for a std cam. I opened the jet up on mine by 1mm I think it was, and set it to idle at 1000rpm to ensure adequate flow.

The consensus, based on the comments above, is that the stub of material remaining in the block will come out easily if you could just get a hold of it, either on the inside or the outside. I, however, disagree with that consensus. That things is tapered threads and it's in there tight enough to snap itself off when you twisted the oil pressure sensor with a pair of vice-grips. It's not gonna come out without a fight. That thing was threaded in there tight enough to seal the pipe threads and snap off the sender unit. I don't think it's going to turn easy. It's certainly worth a try to use an extractor into the center hole, but I'm not confident that will work. Just don't snap off the extractor inside the remaining stub. Unfortunate.

I joined this group in 2000 and sold my last 240 in 2014. I saved some old parts for some crazy reason. I really thought with the recent increase in Z values that I would never get back into them. So, I moved on to restoring and playing with some other cars. A couple of weeks ago I got an email from an old college friend. We both had 240's in college. He swapped to a vw after his second year in college. He told me that he had parked his 240 in a shed at his parents house in 1986 and never touched it again. He said his parents were moving to an assisted living facility and the car had to go. He lives across the country and doesn't have time to deal with it, and thought I may be interested. I initially said no, but I would go take a look as it was less than an hour from me, and I could help him sell it. Long story short we made a deal on it and I am back in the z scene. The car is a 72, but was modified with a rear wing and front spoiler and a sunroof! The good, is that it is very solid, has the original motor and straight panels. Bumpers are straight and in good shape. Interior is rough. My plans are a complete restoration to the original metallic brown. I remembered I had an old parts car that I let a friend have. Thinking I could use it for a donor roof, I went to check it out. Guess what.....It has a sunroof too! How could I get this unlucky? Why didn't I remember that? It did have a few other bits that I will need. So, I will be searching for a donor roof. I will post up some more pictures when I go get the car and get it home. Looking forward to catching up with the z community. It was my first online car group. I remember when we had a list serv system where we got emails back in the 90's. Here is how she has been sitting since 1986.

Friend that’s cheap insurance! The you can rule that variable out. Personally I wouldn’t crank that engine again.

The Irwin extractor's I showed are completely external. But, to my point about finding a friend who knows cars - there are some methodical steps that should be taken to maximize the odds of getting it out. For example, you can file flats on the sides of the nub that the flats on the Vise-Grips can grab. It's more effective that relying on the teeth of the grips, which destroy as they bite. And there are ways to get a better view of the working area, like working through the tire well instead of from above. The right person with a welder could have it out in a few minutes probably Unfortunately most people learn those lessons the hard way after they've already destroyed the remnants of the stud/bolt/whatever. Seems like you're at a point where you can avoid major problems if you get the right plan in place. You left out the part about sawing off the sending unit and the fact that the nub turned a little bit. That's actually a good sign.

Oh shoot! I'm sorry the drawing should have been crystal clear. I think you have it now , but this is what your new installation should look like. Did you power up the circuit board with the tran in your configuration? Ron

Did you mean timing chain? Nissan removed the description of the front oiler in the 1976 FSM. They mention chain lubrication but not the specific oil jet. Here's 72 - Here's 76 -

Dude, that was fun! The brown one is mine! Went out for another break-in cruise along the coast this weekend. Tuning session coming soon.

I got the impression from somewhere that the front one is not really necessary. It might even be discontinued in the later engines. Might have read it in the Rebuild book. You could pull them out, do some work on them, and replace them without introducing swarf in to the engine. Looks like they're still available. Could probably make your own also. 12 and 13 https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-jet-oil-cyl~11047-e3000.html

HS30-H - when asked, I tell customers the 240 guild story but I've been in business long enough to know when someone isn't paying attention to my line of conversation. Unfortunately I experience this more times than not. Lesson - there is indeed a sucker born every minute! Still trying to figure out how the late Paul Taylor's car fell into their slippery hands.

Ron - you’re a super good man! I love the fact that you are helping someone doing it for themselves even though you make money from repairing these. Few of you in the world fella, well done!

I think the seller of the ex-Larry Steppe/The 240Z Guild fantasy-in-red car has hit a metaphorical home run: "Men who will bid the amount needed to win this "Auction" do not need education". Ha ha ha ha ha. HA HA HA HA HA! That's right up there with some of the most unintentionally hilarious comments I've ever seen on BAT. Who is this guy? He should run for President of something or other. He's got my vote. On the other hand, he's probably right. Anyone who bids what this clown probably expects to net from this dog's dinner of a car will be in need of counselling, not education. A Mention In Despatches to BAT commenter 'Schroeder' who is fighting the good fight whilst so far - amazingly - dodging the incoming 'Not Constructive' deletion fire. Let's hope his piano has avoided any damage too.

It is most likely it is rubbing on your lower valence. There is a way you can adjust that valence. I can’t remember exactly how I did it, but it wasn’t rocket science and it was a quick fix. It only requires a minor adjustment to gain clearance and prevent the rub.

I sprayed it out with brake cleaner before reassembly but maybe I should hit it with a butane torch to burn off what might be inside. I have to resolder one of the joints anyway because it's loose. Looking at the design of the oil spray bar, the 2 holes that supply all 12 cam holes hardly seem large enough to do the job, wondering a slightly larger supply hole wouldn't up the pressure for the cam holes. Good point, I might pull the cam just to have a look at the rockers, make sure they weren't damaged, I think I was seconds away from wiping those cam lobes.

If the valve train got hot due to low lubrication, you would probably lose all the lash. Double check it stone cold

One of these. Find one that barely fits inside so it's outside the block, tap it in, turn it counterclockwise. If should unscrew easily.

Are the holes in the spray bar partially blocked with crud? I started poking at mine with a torch tip cleaner and was amazed at how encrusted they had become. There was minimal oil to the cam before, steady streams of oil to the cam after the cleaning. I also soaked the bar in lacquer thinner for 24 hrs to loosen everything up after I saw the build-up in the holes.

Drove that little baby...2 hours, 3 gallons and no sense. Ran great after I got out of the driveway. Brakes were stuck. 63 degrees this morning. Things are looking up! (or down I guess, temp wise) I needed that drive too. It's been a miserable summer for me but a "change is gonna come".

They're in Branson! 😄

@Zup & @S30Driver. GeeZers, please check in. The troops are getting restless.

Thanks for that. I read all 7 pages last night. Lot's of good info

Check the trans configuration as I've posted here. You can modify anything, but the NTE 199 is a direct fit. BTW I also have a 75 280z Ron

I actually happened across some of your posts there when I was doing research on EDIS with Megajolt today.

You can tag weld a rolled plate in the roof. I did to with mine. Some bondo and you wont see a thing. Cutting the entire roof is risky for structural deformation and it needs to be super exact or the Windows wont fit. Good luck seems like a complete restoration

The "260" logo on the door? If it's a 240 door, i wonder why they would put that sticker on it?

The same here! I don't think they wanted to create something like a follow up of the s30 series.. they did that with the s130 then came the Z31 with a total new design and the z32 (300zxtt) was the following car with all the extra. It became indeed a expensive car. i remember walking into a showroom and see one for 80000 guilders (about 30000 dollar at the time i think..) for a four year old car with 80000 km on it (50kmiles) thought i never gonna afford one.. but in 2007 i bought a TT and i drive it this year for the 15th summer! Not a single hair on my head regrets buying this beaute... I bought it with 61000km and has now 86800km. there are VERY few cars that look this good..

thanks. took everyones advice. lot of penetrating oil. it finally broke free and i got the proper length set now.