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Which led to this….

Roger that. Figured there was an easy answer. This issue is fresh in my mind as I've been helping a local guy with his Z and that was one of the issues with his motor. He was running uber-lean for many reasons, and one of them was a mismatch between gasket design and fuel delivery design. He didn't do it, but his motor came to him with the wrong gasket style. Here's a pic looking into the intake manifold while holding the gasket in place. The gasket pretty much blocks off the injector holes completely. His injectors were spraying into a closed door:

CZCC Rogues Gallery - Memphis style!

So this happened…!

Great pic of the GeeZers.

Worked on the AC hose routing & accumulator placement today. The bulkhead fitting was the wrong size, so I had to cut it & add a center section to space it out, used the factory cover plate as the template after welding, cleanup & paint, adding a closed cell foam seal determined the most suitable location for the accumulator. This will likely need revision when the drivetrain swap happens high side hose routing, with orifice tube & trinary switch crimped the line fittings Made the (Volvo) accumulator mount bracket work - modded the brake master heat shield (from a '78) to accept the accumulator bracket Low side hose goes from #12 fitting to #10 line. This is I made years back for the X1/9/Honda setup Made sure throttle link clears the AC hose throughout it's arc of travel bracket needs another support here to prevent unwanted flexing Have to cut up the compressor bracket & rework with Volvo rubber mount isolated ears

Just wanted to post some progress. Tested the method with the center section, love the results. Thanks again to all!

He makes a beautiful exhaust!!!

And I had the pleasure of spending significant time with you at both. Here's to hoping we can do that again at a future event!

You may want to add vacuum meter to see what else is going on.

The first thing to check is fuel pressure. What is it at idle, and what happens when you try to accelerate? Is the fuel line to the fuel pump routed like the factory line, or is it kinked? If you put a fluid line clamp (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html) on the outlet of the FPR, does that reduce the problem? (Tip, don't clamp it down too tightly, just enough to raise the fuel pressure some. Also, don't make us guess about what year your car is. While we can be sure it's a 280Z, some parts did change over the years. Have you downloaded the FSM and looked through the EF section? How about the fuel injection bible?

Same here. I also just noticed I can't go to anyone's profile not just mine. Same error as on my own page.

Pic shows an intake/exhaust gasket for carbureted applications which blocks off the fuel injector holes. Are you switching to carbs? Or is just a mechanical mock-up? I'm sure there's a simple answer, but I just have to ask.

I get this error

My painter told me those headlight housings are a pain in the a**e .. to paint right.. haha. As you have to paint upside down IN them.. (Oh well.. my painter .. he worked at his dads paintshop, and i think he still can't paint very well after many years.. 🙊 ( I did my own first paintjob in a paintboot on my own car ( the first anti rust layer) and only one drip and i immediately knew what i did wrong!) Your painter did the right thing! As there is a rubber seal between those parts and half a mill distance or so.. if you keep them together you get a mess, separate painting is necessary..

@kats it's late here but I'll run the aero figures tomorrow and give you an answer. The Racer Brown 240Z was running around 240bhp so it should be easy to work out. What horsepower do the blue and yellow car have?

Actually it does the opposite, the opening to the rear of the hood brings air into the engine bay rather than venting it. It's a common place to draw air into the interior of the car for ventilation, hence the vents on the panel there. It's also used to feed air into the carbs on many race cars. Here's a good example.

Done that! Just need to pop this hood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I would start with clean fuel

I believe that they caused vibrations only in a specific RPM range - AIR the test team driver said he needed to maintain a certain specific higher speed range long enough for the vibration to show up and get worse. Slower or faster was not a problem.

Hi Kats: As I understand it: GT Class is Grand Touring Sports Class “F” Engine Size is: 123 CID (2015.61cc) to 183 CID (2998.83 cc) 152.134 mph 1972 (L24 BRE Front Spook and Rear Spoiler) 166.037 mph 1976 (L28 G Nose with chin spoiler) 168.721 mph 1985 (308QV Ferrari) 172.974 mph 2010 (L28 - Rebello 3.0L - slight body rake) Between 152 mph and 166 mph two things changed. 1) L24 to L28 and 2) BRE/Spook/spoiler changed to G Nose. I have to think that the L28 accounted for the additional speed. A Wild Guess - about setting the Z on blocks: There could be a significant difference between the Wind Tunnel in Japan 1971 and the one used by HybridZ in 2008 was it? The Wind Tunnel in Japan may have had a limited number of sensors spaced in the floor - so the Z there was set on blocks - on the sensors. The Wind Tunnel used by HybridZ has sensors more easily movable / or more of them in the floor - so the tires could set directly on them.

@Kats the early record car had the spook front spoiler, faired in headlights and tail spoiler. What was even more remarkable it had the early rear diff setup with the forward mounting point and angled driveshafts. Considering these supposedly caused vibrations in the standard 240Z they obviously weren't a problem at 150mph!

Just looking at the 2 pictures Kats posted it looks to me like... With the way this G-nose is configured and with the raised hood center at the rear of the hood it looks like a venturi entrance in the nose to accelerate and condense the air entering the front of the car and the hood configuration should create a low-pressure area at the rear of the hood to provide suction for air exiting the engine bay.

You might want to chase those fine threads before you cover them over with foam and vinyl, locating the holes is hard enough but getting the right angle to catch the threads is where I have a hard time.

Started messing with this tonight. It takes a second to get oriented on how the header piece needs to be to clip the wind lace over it. Once I get this clipped in and like it I will trim it back some. Then I'm gonna glue the foam to the metal. Then glue the header piece to the front flange...

You have to love the car and be willing to spend the $$ to bring it back for a second life. I think the key is what 87jm said about his experience with a very poor resto shop. I've been there and spent big dollars and years trying to correct what a certain So Calif shop did to my 280z. The real take away is find someone who has used a particular resto shop, is very satisfied, and use them. A good shop that loves Datsuns is worth everything. I hope you restore your car or sell it to someone who has the resources to restore it correctly. Good luck

Why? It doesn't have to costs much if you can do the sheet metal work yourself, i've just finished metal work on a 67 chevelle that came from Michigan, that was half gone, trunk, inner wheels well, rockers, etc. Chassis also half gone. Only spended 6k in materials, the rest is time.

Hi! SpeedRoo and Alan described it well, I didn't even think about the under cover does such a great job for reducing Drag and Lift. Takeuchi-san (Z432-R owner) used to say he put an undercover on his car but he took it off in a few days. He said it wasn't good for engine cooling. Takeuchi-san, he takes his car on the road no matter how far his friends live, how hard rain falls from the sky. But he normally doesn't need to push his car over 100 MPH. Last time I visited him I saw the cover on his wall like an interior decoration. Me, maybe the same. I want to put it in my car but don't want to make the engine hot in the daily driving. Or winter only will work for me. Kats

Found it @Carl Beck https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/55944-windtunnel-test-data/

73 for bid - no reserve. From the people that sold the Green $310K car. https://auction.owlshead.org/listing/1973-datsun-240z-with-38575-original-miles/?fbclid=IwAR1yrDQcHdODNOaxrnbx1QMZWOF5vVb4rOx3YqcQP2vn8qx8-KiQMPcQLeA

@Carl Beck very interesting reading. I remember seeing that report somewhere, can you link to it still? Blocking off sections of the radiator opening seems to have the biggest effect, as we mentioned earlier in the tread.

The test data from HybridZ... the numbers for a stock Z (test #2) Cd /CL etc are pretty close to what Kats Posted.

Hi Ali, There's some potential for confusion here between the full-length engine bay undertray of the 432-R (as homologated for race use, made from FRP) and the much shorter splash pan (steel, as fitted to other models) which were designed to perform different functions. The 432-R undertray has a reputation for causing overheating in normal street use during hot weather (it was designed to be used on circuit, at higher speeds of course) and I guess Mr. F would know what he was talking about with regard to the steel splash pan, although I imagine the effect would be less pronounced. Here's what the 432-R undertray looked like:

The purpose of the undertray is to speed up the airflow under the car to reduce overall lift. It does cause cooling problems but careful attention to ducting and venting the air from the engine bay keeps those in check. At ordinary legal driving speeds none of this really has much effect but as you get nearer to 100mph the aero has a much bigger influence. The reason the Z432R has the undertray is to homologate the part for racing use, without the front airdam and cooling mods it wouldn't actually have much effect on the cars performance in normal use.

Nice car, lots of good work done, it's a shame about the engine not being original, would like to hear the details about that.

It's down there in that sketchy part of the country for Z's. I'd want to see the firewall stamping. Shipping: See item description for shipping details Located in: La Puente, California, United States