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Why? It doesn't have to costs much if you can do the sheet metal work yourself, i've just finished metal work on a 67 chevelle that came from Michigan, that was half gone, trunk, inner wheels well, rockers, etc. Chassis also half gone. Only spended 6k in materials, the rest is time.

Brushwork. Cutting in. Never as easy as you think...

Hi! SpeedRoo and Alan described it well, I didn't even think about the under cover does such a great job for reducing Drag and Lift. Takeuchi-san (Z432-R owner) used to say he put an undercover on his car but he took it off in a few days. He said it wasn't good for engine cooling. Takeuchi-san, he takes his car on the road no matter how far his friends live, how hard rain falls from the sky. But he normally doesn't need to push his car over 100 MPH. Last time I visited him I saw the cover on his wall like an interior decoration. Me, maybe the same. I want to put it in my car but don't want to make the engine hot in the daily driving. Or winter only will work for me. Kats

If you have a 240Z then sway bars for a 240Z will fit just fine, a little extra displacement in the engine will have no effect.

I think the parts are designed "OK". The real mess-up is this pic: That pic has the parts assembled incorrectly. It has the locations and orientations of the plastic bushing and the aluminum cup backwards. And it also doesn't show the original OEM required rubber bushing on the rear side of the mounting hole in the frame. You see... Never shown in the pics is the original big rubber bushing on the back side of the T/C rod before you install the washer(s) and nut. They mention it in the instructions, but the wording is really confusing. So that said... If you turn the aluminum cup around and put it on first, then that cup is stationary with respect to the T/C rod shaft (meaning that the hole in the middle is just fine to be a tight fit on the rod). And then the oversized tapered hole on the plastic bushing is where the rod wobbles around inside. So yes, the pivot point will be moved out away from the frame hole, but the rest of it looks reasonably designed conceptually. No evaluation of materials used or clearances involved, but at least the concept works. Compression is hard plastic. Tension is soft rubber. Kinda like using poly up front and rubber in the back.

You have to love the car and be willing to spend the $$ to bring it back for a second life. I think the key is what 87jm said about his experience with a very poor resto shop. I've been there and spent big dollars and years trying to correct what a certain So Calif shop did to my 280z. The real take away is find someone who has used a particular resto shop, is very satisfied, and use them. A good shop that loves Datsuns is worth everything. I hope you restore your car or sell it to someone who has the resources to restore it correctly. Good luck

I'm thinking it's a Guild, but I could be wrong

OK so its not just me something is going on. Love the site so please don't take this request as a complaint. Hoping Mike can get to it once he has time.

Take it to a radiator shop and have them flow test it for you. If it’s an old school shop they might be able to re-core it or rod it out. Problem might be elsewhere.

Non 2400 valve cover, swapped motor? The cigarette lighter in the dash too might mean more swapped out parts. $5k as a starting point seems rather high for this one.

Yeah surely more than I can handle. My guess is that it's been sitting out in the damp Puget Sound lowland marshes for some time and is hiding even more rust than is seen. My ZX is a local Seattle car and has seen it's fair share of rust repair having only spent time in the city, not the woods.

Which makes me wonder if there should be a realignment of the priorities. I don't do track days with my car because I have zero free time these days but certainly there are plenty of ways to scratch that itch during the year. For me personally my interests are seeing other peoples builds, bench racing, maybe a poker run or fun rally with other Z cars. I don't expect much to change but I was stoked then noped for Birmingham because of the date selected and now Tampa is going to see limited participation as well. Driving a S30 in 90+ heat isn't exactly a joy. I daily drive mine and I have AC but it's a lot more fun with the AC off and the windows down. I mean these are sports cars right? 🙂

100k+ wishful thinking.

Hi Carl, Thank you for the data, I have never seen it before. I visited the link provided here, I saw they tested various kinds of body configurations. I am curious about the car stayed on the floor, Nissan engineers set the actual car on the block which makes the car sit higher than sitting on the floor. We know this car, Salt Flats Racer 240Z. Most of people never knew (including me) the G-Nose can be attached with the Europe front spoiler like this car. I think this car has perfect aero dynamic package available from Nissan back in 70's Except one thing, an undercover. If this car had an undercover on that day, it could have much faster top speed on the plaque. Nissan engineers tested a G-nose with a front spoiler in the thesis I showed here. More surprising for me is the car did 152 MPH in 1972 without G-nose. Kats

Well, I have been involved with the planning of a ZCON. As you mentioned before, it's mostly about the track day. When the rest of the committee suggested October for the 2018 convention, I thought they were bonkers. However, I was COMPLETELY wrong. It just so happens that October is about the least rainy month in the Atlanta area. Z1 Motorsports was also generous enough to run the track day and People's Choice show for the convention when they normally would have held ZNationals. Yes, they got a cut of the convention proceeds, but I suspect it was less than they usually clear on ZNationals. The end result was that we had a great turnout for ZCON 2018. It was an incredible undertaking that I never wish to attempt again. 🙂 ZCON 2020 was a little different. Covid was threating the convention, but just before the ZCCA threw in the towel, Nissan approached them about the debut of the new Z. The convention was in September, and the pandemic kept the attendance down some. It was nice having it in September instead of the middle of summer. The weather actually started cooling off quite a bit around the time of the People's Choice show on Saturday. After attending two cooler month ZCONs and 3 VERY hot ZCONs, I certainly prefer the milder weather.

I was there last December and it's always a great turnout. His collection is inspiring and then depressing 🙂 Even in December we were all looking for shade. I just don't understand scheduling outdoor festivities during the hottest time of the year but I also have zero idea of what goes into putting on something like ZCon. Like Dave said the 350 and 370 crowd will like it. They have better air conditioning😂

@SpeedRooThanks - the old links in my bookmarks wouldn't load.... so I used the image I had saved at the time.

Found another backwards item so I guess I have to stop counting now. Air breather hole on the wrong side of the carbs, unfiltered air sucking in through the back and breather on the carbs essentially blocked off.

Almost 40 years! I feel better now 😉

Here is the one I bought in 1984 and have not used yet. It is supplied by Interpart. The plastic pivots are a hard black material.

The other option is a harder aftermarket polyurethane bush one side, a OEM one the other. Give a better feel, but without putting the rod under undue force.

More tea, Vicar? After you've welded on those used rear quarters, Frankenstein style. you might find a few unsightly gaps need filling. We have just the product you need! No Nonsense expanding foam fills the space lacking in your integrity as well as in your car...

But if, by some twist of cruel fate, you end up needing to hide some of these small errors of judgement, you can rely on the wonders of modern polyester fillers to get you out of the hole (so to speak...). The same guy who did your welding is pretty good at this sort of stuff. He's pretty handy with the spray gun too. It'll be all but undetectable. Trust me.

I was in the same boat as you a few years ago. I found a 6/70 that was in fair condition. Complete, etc. I got the car restored by a POS body guy. He made the car worse than it was when I got it. They had to redo all of the POS guy's work and he damaged good sheet metal. I had a choice between scraping the body and selling the parts or fixing it. I am fixing it. They second body shop has had the car now for about 6 months. I am pretty picky about the level of detail and the guys I found are doing a fantastic job. I dont think I could have found a better body shop. The replacement KF panels really helped too. I can send you pictures if you want. I google mapped and you are about 3 hours from their shop. I think I will have the car back in about 30 days. Maybe less. You are welcome to stop by and take a look if you want. I am near Columbia City. I bet my car was in better shape than yours when I bought it but I bet your car is in better shape than mine was when I took it to the second body shop. I would get it fixed in a heartbeat. Best of luck.

Same car. Tunnel and floor. Assorted strange patch welding, fibreglassing and a mixture of brush painting and spray painting. Flash sometimes making #918 look like #920. Nice attention to detail. If it doesn't move, paint it :

These cans are quite large, so you should have enough to do BOTH sides: