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Ah... Hope it's all there then! I just went a month ago? to the plater Galvano here in the netherlands and i always care to put nothing in it under lets say 8 mm big.. i had 3 very small screws in a batch of 50 Lbs or so? and... i got everything back in good as new condition.. (very small ones i put a ring on them and a nut that way they always come back.. never failed!) Including the thirsty ride in my 300zx 😉 i had to pay about 200Euro for the badge.. not bad.. they said it was not very profitable as there were a lot of big parts this time.. some nice fuel lines.. springs i use a small piece of steel to stretch them so it is plated perfect! 40 Lbs of steel stufffff........ fuel intake 280zx (gonna use this one on my 240z one day...i think it's better hope it fits.. (these are also on the 280z i think?))

I don't think it would be much different. That's what I meant about the fluid flowing fast coming out of the master cylinder. The reason it would flow so quickly through the lines is because of the small volume that actually exists inside the brake lines. Grannyknot's put it well above, but let's put some numbers on it... If the ID of the lines is .118 inches (3mm), then the cross sectional area of said tube is .011 square inches. That means in a ten foot run of brake line, there is only about 1.3 cubic inches of brake fluid. I'm thinking that even if there is a bubble in the middle somewhere, it's just going to get pushed out ahead of the next slug of liquid when you're bleeding the system.

I sometimes run ½ a quart through before I'm happy with how it looks. Mainly because a I want clear fluid coming out. No black. The bubbles normally go away pretty fast unless the line is really empty

Get a endoscope camera from Amazon for $30, there are 10 ft. And longer camera leads. It’s blue tooth. Set it up watch your caliper or WC on video and watch for bubbles. Used this with the speed bleeders. One man job and you can watch the real time video. Works great. Cool camera, you can use it for almost anything…

Just make sure you have the shift fork with the hole in it before you purchase the slave with the adjustable length rod. It’s ball shaped stopper seats in the spherical recess and the rest of the threaded rod pokes through the hole.

For what it is worth, I have done a cold lash to the 008/010 dimensions on my engine. A year later I pulled the valve cover one afternoon and checked it, it was still beautifully set and had not moved. I trust the 008/010 method cold. I can take my time and really get a uniform feel. Also, the biggest challenge for me is to ensure the cam lobes are in the round section. Constantly bumping over the engine is a pain. Removing the plugs helps tremendously. But trying to remove the wires, valve cover and plugs and get your bump start trigger hooked up is hard to do with the engine at a uniform temp for the 12 valves. Go cold and take your time. I think it will be fine.

It looks so easy. Just cut and glue. What could go wrong?

ZNationals track day is at Road Atlanta today, so I took the day off to enjoy the day.

Maybe so, but it really appeals to my aesthetic sense!

Well I never spend huge amounts of time working on something, that in the end, is really unnecessary. Ever.

Even if CO had completed that undergrad course in fluid dynamics, it wouldn't have taught him anything about the behaviour of bubbles entrained in fluid flowing through a pipe. That's pretty specialized stuff. It definitely wouldn't have taught him anything about dislodging a bubble trapped in the corner of a casting. It's worth pointing out that applied science (engineering) is usually based on observing a behaviour first and then finding ways to apply the theory so that it generates a decent prediction. Grannyknot makes a valid point about the ratio of the bubble diameter vs the brake pipe diameter. However, even if the brake pipe was 1/2" in diameter I suspect that the bubbles would stay small and would still be swept along with the flowing brake fluid. This would be a great weekend project for CO: Build a demonstration rig using clear tubing and some drilled-out clear acrylic 'castings' and then pump some fizzy brake fluid through it to see what happens at the high points and inside the casting voids. Somewhat off topic, but microbubble technology is a pretty hot topic these days in the field of medical treatments and drug delivery technology.

Yes, I have to admit that I am taking all my plating needs to service now and the expensive plating kit and power supply are just sitting on the shelf gathering dust. I'm all about DIY but some things are better done by others.

This week i sold these beautiful fenders for the s30 cars.. A set i bought from a Nissan dealer that stopped years ago. they are 240z fenders sold by black dragon.. and now.. they returned to the USA!!! Back to Florida after being in the Netherlands for years! 😂 Also sold with these fenders these sugarscoops or headlight scoops. NOW FOR SALE: A new set of s130 (280zx(t) fenders made by (Swedish?/ German?) firm Klokkerholm (now? Würth?) ! These are in their original package. One has a little bit of undercoating but is in good condition. (You get A LOT of pictures of these fenders before i send them to you.) LEFT Right Then.. i have a set of oversized pistons.. ORIGINAL NISSAN OVERSIZE 1MM where are you going to find these !!! 6 x 83,97 mm (oversize) pistons for L24 Nissan 2,4 ltr. With connecting-rods complete. (New and also original Nissan.) These are new and a bit greasy but new. 1 piston has another oil scraper but that should be no problem. (i bought these many years ago and it had the od ring on it.) Top.. servicemanual says: 6 (or 7? i must ivestigate..) main bearing also available and many internal parts.. ask for your part.) Finally i have a complete car for sale, it has been my summer car for 15 years! A complete history with a listing from the Dutch RDW which says this car has been in storage for winter at least from his 4-5 birthday!!! (that time before that it was at a dealers showroom!) So you can imagine that this car is imaculate on the underside as it is on top!) It has it's original exhaust still after 29 years (1992) it's 3th set of tires (i had to put new on few years ago because they were so hard, car was sliding at every corner haha..) Everything works but the headlightwashers.. (never bothered to look at it, i think it's bull**** anyway.. this car was never that dirty..) The aircon works still perfect after 29,5 years!! Never been reloaded or something.. the secret? USE IT EVERY MONTH ONES! That way the lines stay greasy inside and you never get a leak .. it seems... last time i checked with a meter it blew 4,9 degrees celcius into the car and the outside temp was around 28 celcius! A clean car without problems and a ful historie and with some beautiful car folders.. EDIT: forget to say the important thing.. it has 87600 Km's on the clock (54400 mls!) and as in the Netherlands we have for many years now NAP this means the milage in this case the km's are registrated with every year from the garage they have to put this on papers of the RDW when the cars comes in for APK (MOT in england) at your garage. So the milage is guaranteed by the Dutch RDW! ( DMV it's called in de States i think?) come visit: www.rdw.nl and find out how we do car registration.. You can contact me at: martzedcars@outlook.com (but beware these car don't come sheap.. anymore..)

@Captain Obvious - I agree, but somehow I just can't seem to help myself. Seems like everything gets more and more complicated. Of course, it's 100% my fault. Sometimes, in the course of product development, there comes the time when you have to kill the engineers and get on with production!

But you have to remember that the inside diameter of the brake line is just 3mm so there is not much volume to begin with and when the pedal is pushed the fluid rushes through the line quickly taking air bubbles with it. One possible problem with bleeding the brakes on our cars is that the farthest rear brake from the MC is not the P/S but the D/S, the D/S rear brake should always be bled first then the P/S or air bubbles could get hung up at the 3 way connector.

With an old bolt and some nuts you can easely make a adjustable one from a non-adjustable one..

Haha! What about the "None of us need more work to do." part?

Good pic. As for the fluid dynamics... I had one class in fluid flow and thermodynamics*. I consider it the worst class I took in my entire educational career, and I got zero out of it. At the time I had absolutely no interest and (as an EE) could see absolutely no practical value to me. So it bounced off my brain and I managed to scrape through with a "C" using short term memory and a stiff grading curve (because pretty much everyone tanked the tests). But now... Now that I've got a whole bunch of automotive related applications, I bet I would get a whole lot more out of it. *Probably told this story before, but I'm gonna do it again anyway.

The adjustable one is the proper one. It's stock on the early Z's. I prefered it because one could adjust the free play in the release bearing. The 5 speed doesn't enter into the equation.

Update: They appear to have found my missing hardware, hopefully it's all there Thanks Jim I love Texans so that might be a good option. I also did some wiring of small parts prior to plating. We'll see what I lose and what I don't Chris, Thanks for that! I can get pretty good results with smaller parts. Larger parts can be more problematic. It is also very time consuming to plate in small batches. It would take 100-120 hours to plate a whole car's worth of hardware, that might be low. I was hoping to find a solution for bulk parts and then do some plating at home to fill in around that. It's bad when your DIY plating looks better than the professionals. Sort of disappointing...

So, here it is. The bleeder is tapped and drilled at an angle. It enters the wheel cylinder NEAR the top... The brake line feed is drilled perpendicular and enters at the center of the cylinder. I think Cap has it with his excellent Fluid Dynamics instruction.

If I were still working the 9-5 job, I'd model this on some fluid dynamics software and see what happens.

Pretty sure that my Clifford Research Performance (6 to 2) headers were blue, but I've had them since 1982. Seem to remember their advertising line being "6 equals 8".

Tomorrow I'll be replacing rear cylinders - discovered that my left rear was leaking yesterday. Two new rear cylinders are being delivered to the shop in the morning... While I don't know if the bleeder comes off the top top, I think it's an optical illusion to believe it's on the bottom and there are cavities inside that could retain air during the bleed process. That goes against everything humans building cars have known about hydraulics for the past 100 years.

If the jar is above the bleed screw, the thought is that the hose between the bleed screw and jar is also above the bleed screw. If that hose is filled with fluid, you are less likely to pull air back in through the bleed screw.

Thanks. Frankly, that's the answer I was hoping someone with more experience would provide. None of us need more work to do.

If you live in a dry climate....