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Richard McDonel, I believe your asking "Why wouldn't air bubbles get trapped inside the hard line or rubber lines since they are higher than the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder?" I'm no fluid flow expert, but I'm thinking the fluid coming out of the master cylinder flows so fast that it pushes virtually a full slug of brake fluid liquid along inside the small diameter lines. The slug of fluid doesn't really want to separate and it just pushes all the air out ahead of "the wave", and even when you lift the pedal to get ready for another push, even if a bubble were to flow out of the wheel cylinder, it won't happen fast. You'll blow that bubble out on the next push. Capillary action and vacuum lock and all that... That's my non expert theory anyway.

For what it is worth, I have done a cold lash to the 008/010 dimensions on my engine. A year later I pulled the valve cover one afternoon and checked it, it was still beautifully set and had not moved. I trust the 008/010 method cold. I can take my time and really get a uniform feel. Also, the biggest challenge for me is to ensure the cam lobes are in the round section. Constantly bumping over the engine is a pain. Removing the plugs helps tremendously. But trying to remove the wires, valve cover and plugs and get your bump start trigger hooked up is hard to do with the engine at a uniform temp for the 12 valves. Go cold and take your time. I think it will be fine.

I can't think of a single time where I've read about the need for a higher capacity mechanical pump. Never read of any engine running lean because the mechanical pump couldn't keep the float bowls full. It might be a thing but I've never heard of it happening. A mechanical pump delivers a certain volume of fuel with each pump, and the pumps are tied to each engine revolution which also pumps about the same amount of air. Doesn't really help your quest but I don't think that you can make a direct comparison between the two types of pump. One's capacity increases automatically, the other's is constant.

$68K Seems fishy but fair for #842. Looks like at one time it was a grade 2 level of restoration, and now a high 3 since completion and multiple owner changes. Being that almost nothing changed from the recent sale of $68K, the market defined this Z's value and no one was willing to budge. It looks like a good starting point for someone to take on and really make it a nice example. Quite a few period correct items missing or replaced with incorrect parts. The repeating paint quality issues noted in the comments wouldn't be very hard to alleviate. All in all, on paper it could be made into a six figure car. Some folks were projecting the Z market is flattening out in resale values. From recent BaT transactions it appears we're having a flood of grade 3-4 cars in the market, none of much excitement like the Franklin Mint or $310K Green Monster Z. I hope they're wrong, and folks are just holding out for those concours level Zs. Helps keep up the motivation to complete my own cars.

The explanation for the bid bump was that the 'value' of the car MUST be at least what it sold for previously, and thus, the $68,000 bid. The bid strategy was successful which leads me to believe that the 'value' wasn't necessarily what it sold for previously. But that's auctions. The comments during this auction 'from the peanut gallery' are simply typical of the stuff I read on BaT concerning Datsun Z cars. I'm constantly amazed by some of the things I read including the dressing down of people who challenge the 'experts'. The latest being about the "highest value in the world" comment by Bill himself. BaT is proving (to me) to be the disinformation yellow press of our times. So I watch, I laugh, I'm entertained and amazed at how naive some of these people are. And how passionately they argue their misguided position!

Charles, I've been using these folks for years with excellent results and I've referred a bunch of fellow Z owners to them with no complaints or problems. I'm fortunate that they are on;y a 15 minute drive from my home. As to the problem of lost bits, that will occasionally happen but I have pretty well remedied that by stringing small stuff - nuts, washers, springs, ...etc. onto wire loops that I tightly close. I do something similar with small screws by wrapping a thin wire several times arounf the threads and twsting it to lock it closed then daisy-chain more screws and finish by closing the wire into a loop. They do only cash or check for individual accounts. http://www.texasprecision.net/ Jim

So, here it is. The bleeder is tapped and drilled at an angle. It enters the wheel cylinder NEAR the top... The brake line feed is drilled perpendicular and enters at the center of the cylinder. I think Cap has it with his excellent Fluid Dynamics instruction.

Pretty sure that my Clifford Research Performance (6 to 2) headers were blue, but I've had them since 1982. Seem to remember their advertising line being "6 equals 8".

Nice work Mart 👌

Last week i did a bit of pain(t)work on the engine.. 🙂 But first some old pics, not bad after a good clean, a lot of paint is still on the engine. As this engine has only 120k Kms on it it was sufficient to take all the seals out and leave the pistons and crank in the block. (it would be very unneccessary work if i had taken it out.. as the oil was now after 1000+ kms after the restore still pellucid/transparant. After a good clean (before sanding) i discovered a big number on the block.. i have no idea what it's doeing there.. Painted block L28 N42 Zinc painted sump .. (it was a combi of first a layer of zinc and then some charcoal paint, it was a bit much so i rolled the paint what gave me this effect..) The sump was in very good condition, all bolt holes where OK. As cork seals are not very good i used liquid sealer on the sump.. Intake manifold also ready for install. Throttle valve ready for install.. Next time a complete engine on a stand.. 🙂

I have to agree with you there! [emoji106] I like keeping the mech pump - i may also look into a bypass set up on the elec pump in case it ever fails. The problem is never fitting these things, it’s the stuff we put around them like not using the wiring loom supply and adding inertia cut off relays etc ;)

If the FS5W71B is out of a ZX coupe, dan most probably a "close ratio" and wel worth getting for $100. You won't find much use for the 71C stubby.. If it came out of a truck, than it bolted up to a Z series motor. They have the same bell housing bolt pattern as the L series but tilt the other direction. Here is a simple instruction to help identify the 71B. And the bell housing pattern.

New jute went down smoothly on the transmission tunnel. I also saved the original diamond vinyl for this area as well, and replicated the relief cuts onto the new material. All in all very happy with the final results. Few edges to address and it will be complete.

I agree with Patcon's assessment above, but since I love a list... Here are my answers to your questions. 1. How much difference? Immeasurably small. 2. How hard would it be? Pain in the butt to do it right. 3. What size? Doesn't matter. Glad we could talk you out of it!

I would think in a support role the electric pump would flow even more because the mechanical is helping pull somewhat

You can unscrew the bleeder all the way and hand thread a small drill bit in and clean out any gunk that way

I wonder what the story is behind ThreePedalCollective? The buyer back in 2019. Has not commented since last October. Bought quite a few cars in just a couple of years on BAT. Why sell the Z that was recently bought, with no reserve price set? Maybe ThreePedal decided this one was a poor investment and wanted to cash out. There would probably be some nervous Z owners out there if it had sold at less than $68,000. Investments are "supposed" to continuously increase in value. https://bringatrailer.com/member/threepedalcollective/

That was where I was going. The previous auction set the bar for what this car was/is worth. Essentially having the car sit for 30 months with minimal use/work done wasn't enough for people to see any value added today. I personally despise seeing dealers horse trading cars in an effort to make a quick buck. But, to each their own. I would bet had this been the first time the car publicly was auctioned off it would have touched the $85K range some believed it to be worth.

It is quite fascinating that someone would bid on a vehicle based on photos and seller‘s description. There is no substitute to actual in-person assessment by someone knowledgeable about body work, paint and mechanical operation. This examination can turn a potential disastrous purchase into a real pleasure. My estimation is a flipper of vehicles does not care, as they are concerned with turning a quick profit on “business” inventory. An enthusiast may very well relish the process of vehicle acquisition and ownership. Pressing a “Bid” button does not necessarily represent passion for a specific vehicle, only the financial wherewithal to trade money for metal. Keith

I don't think that one person makes a market. He went up $20,750 in one step and nobody even tried to add $100 to his perceived value. He picked up a number that felt "right" to him. But, if he has the money that's his prerogative.

I prefer Lojack and a 44 mag. It removes the source of the problem. Someone here mentioned security hardware. Are you talking about the nuts that attach the steering column to the brace? I still think notification and a 44 is the way to go. I live in a county that promotes it.

I'm in the "if they want..." group. Repo guys can get anyting. So with their knowledge and equipment anybodies stuff is steal-able. To add, my car lives in a garage and is never left alone at car shows, isn't parked as a normal car. My Camry is my DD. The only thing more important is my dog.

Not sure its wise, but with all my vintage cars I have owned, I've always left them unlocked (short term stay). I figured since I dont leave anything worth value in my cars, its better to let them get in and rummage and leave, instead of sourcing windows, fixing scrapped paint and dents. Like Speed Racers brother said, if someone wants in, there getting in, might as well soften the blow and cost. I do like some of the camera tech thats out there now that records on any bump of the car or break in.

If you live in a dry climate....