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I agree with CO Gone in 60 seconds. My youth was very colorful. If I really wanted to protect it, put a tracker in it. It'll tell you if it moves and you can lead the cops right to it. Provided they're still interested in that sort of thing where you live...

I think two threads are running the same conversation?

Wow, what a conversation with Steve at TEP. His first comment "...was, why, why, why would ANYONE use a P90A head when what you really want is an N42 or E88? You can't use anyother cam on that head." I did mention that it had been converted to mechanical adjusters. He suggested that then you have spend a lot of money getting the longer valves, tower spacers, etc. Then mentioned that "knuckleheads" do the .080 shave, made a reference to dumpster diver engine builders, and so on. So after about ten minutes of that, he told me he can do anything I want wrt pistons and cam. The only detail he mentioned was that he had the perfect grind for me at .490 and 284 duration. His JE pistons (he doesn't recommend anyone else's) are $1150 and a cam regrind (on a non-performance core) is $199. Interesting way to do business. The only value I can see in using them is that as long as I provide accurate dimensional data, such as block height, rod length, bore size, etc., then the pistons I get will not have any interference with the valves - iow, valve reliefs, if needed will be added and only enough of a cut will be made to provide adequate clearance - keeping my CR where I want it. BTW, I called JE several days ago and they will sell their pistons at $150 each.

Actually you're better off to have that "12V" wire connected out closer to the loads. Like at the battery. Connected at the alternator it will deliver lower voltage to the full system, because there's no voltage drop there. You have yours setup like a "one-wire" system. But that is all considered in the #14 link. One of the wires that is being jumpered is the "12V" wire. That's one of the things that SteveJ suggested you check. SteveJ has been doing electrical for years, but I was in and out of it and off and on myself so I might have more empathy. I tried a few of the connect the colors directions when I got in to old cars but always ran in to problems. Your best path is to consider everything and double and triple check. Trust but verify.

After sitting in Kroil for the better part of four days, EuroDat's "heat it and beat it" method worked to dislodge the piston in my switch. About 40-60 seconds of heating with a propane torch along both sides of the main chamber axis and then tapping it hard on the flat of my bench vise did the trick. Thanks, buddy.

You registered two weeks ago, youve got 14 posts, and you're asking us how one would steal a Z?

Are you going to ask the same questions on every Z-car forum that exists? Slow down, do your homework and read the references provided. And if you use the lift points provided by the manufacturer (as shown in the photo earlier in the thread) it's reasonable to presume they will work correctly.

I've worked for 2 people, self centered narcissistic micro managers what's in it for me type for 35 years. I made a life improving decision to go to the corporate workforce and after two weeks I love it! When I leave I LEAVE. Nothing but family matters when I clock out now. They don't even know my phone number. I took a small pay cut but the nonexistent stress evens it out by way far. My beer and stress eating make up the difference plus some. Money is time don't jive anymore. How I spend my time is #1 now. So now my time is worth more than money to me as it should be to everyone else too. Smell the roses my friends.

I have a Datsun 240z 1973, when I bought the car I was informed the previous owner may have added a "hopped up cam". Since owning the car I have had issues with rough idle and pinging and I am curious if this some of this could be related to the valve timing. I have not checked the Valve timing but I am not sure that stock numbers will work if the cam was changed from Stock. Curious advice for a Zcar novice. Thank you for your time,

These videos seem to be popping up. There's some Datsuns. Here's one, looks like a B210. I had a 78 coupe, it was nice. Should have kept it. 2:44

I do exactly that for exactly those reasons! When away from home, in addition to electronic immobilisation, it’s wheel clamped. I also take the wheel clamp in the boot to use at overnight stay events. But even in that situation, if they want it, they will lift it off the ground or bring a battery powered angle grinder / power drill and drill out the lock. All you can do is delay them or make it difficult. Case in point as mentioned, modern cars!

If there's a cam there might be higher CR. You'll want to check things carefully. These engines are prone to detonation (pinging/knocking) and can get damaged.

I used TEP years ago to lighten a flywheel, but yeah... That's a pretty narrow focus that there is only one way to build an engine.

🙂 Feel free to add all the tools in that category I created last night. Let me know if you have any other suggestions for it. Thanks @Patcon Mike

I’d bet so. It’s a fairly arbitrary PN, could have multiple supplier producing it under the same name.

John, let us know when you're back, and we'll go from there for Gland Nut measurements, and/or getting them back here. As far as the ones you used, as long as the ID of the inner opening that seats down on the strut matches extremely close to the top of the KONI, we would assume you'd be ok, but there may be factors we're not thinking of. If there is any movement at all, the damage could grow over time. We'll figure it out.

Yep. About 2+ inches. Plenty of room for a cold air box. Maybe someday..................... I have added a heat shield between the header and intake. (Older picture)

300 mm and look how much space to the shock tower...

Yes. bought several. Cheapest by a long shot and EXACTLY what I got from a couple of other suppliers that just use the BK104WS part number. Brass synchro's for all five gears, works on all the 77-83 Z and ZX FS5W71 trans. Well except that goofy 5th gear synchro thingy in the 77-78 trans. (double exhaust hanger, short shifter ears, no reverse lock out case). No source for that thing no how.

tvs is often referred to as tps. Not sure on afm sticking. It would certainly reduce air flow if the flap stuck.

As @zKars said, the aftermarket door trims are not curved. If you are not successful at warping them into shape and still have the OE pieces, consider transferring the new fuzzy strips to the OE trim. They can easily be attached with a series of pop rivets spaced about 3" apart. I went thru this entire process years ago, did not want to risk damage to new paint trying to force fit aftermarket trim.

Haha!! Exactly who I was thinking of when I wrote that! Thanks for picking that up! Ack!!

Hahaha!!! It's true!! In fact, I just got a new one! And... I hated it so bad* that after a short usage time (one month maybe), I just got ANOTHER new flip phone of a different brand. The new-new one is more advanced than my previous flips. I handed it to my son yesterday and in a matter of minutes he was laughing at funny videos on youtube. So it's got that. I might never use it for that, but it's clearly capable. So ppppbbbbhttttt for all you guys who think I'm stuck in the 1990's. Hahaha!! * IMHO, it should have never left the factory. If I wrote the software on that POS, I would have been fired on the spot.

Stealing a stock Z? For me... Gone in 60 seconds and I wouldn't care at all whether the security screws were broken off or not. You need something more elaborate than that. Great list. Let me add... Break a window, reach in and open the hood, disconnect the steering coupler donut, jumper the starter solenoid, and then use the starter to crank the car to your place while steering by kicking the front tires in the direction you want to go. Bring extra batteries just in case the PO was having alternator troubles. Or a charger and a really long extension cord.

That is NOT a starter wire. That is a fusible link. Don't know what a fusible link is? Click here: https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Littelfuse PDFs/Fusible_Link_FAQ.pdf Replace it. It is done. You can get a replacement from Banzai Motorworks (http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php WH-03 @zspert) or Motorsport Auto (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332). Ironically, the wire should have burned up leaving the insulation intact. In the meantime, disconnect the battery so you don't short out the link. As for the alternator, since it does not have any identifying marks for the L and S wires, I will expand upon my previous suggestions (You need to do at least one.): Buy the Haynes manual for the Frontier (98-04). The electrical section may have the information on what you need. You can get a used copy off Amazon for about $14. How much is your car worth to you? Go to forums on the Nissan Frontier and see if someone with electrical knowledge can answer your question about which is L and which is S. Use a multimeter on the resistance setting. If it has multiple resistance settings, you may have to repeat the steps below on 1M ohm and 1K ohm settings. Touch the common probe to the red wire. Touch the other probe to the B terminal. Record the reading. Touch the common probe to the B terminal. Touch the other probe to the red wire. Record the reading. Touch the common probe to the green wire. Touch the other probe to the B terminal. Record the reading. Touch the common probe to the B terminal. Touch the other probe to the green wire. Record the reading. Repeat steps 1-4 replacing the B terminal with the E terminal (grounding point). Report your readings from each step. If it's like the ZX alternator, I should be able to tell which is L and which is S. I'll explain what I'm looking for when I see the results.

That’s awesome, never seen that. Amazing we have so much knowledge available at any time from anywhere. Oops…not everyone, we can’t include the likes of Captain Obvious here. He’s still using a fax machine and western union. I will say it’s easier to ask “The forum Librarian”, Siteunseen than to do your own search he’s got all the forum topics categorized like the Dewey Decimal System?

Do you want to know all the ways possible or just the top 5

Few updates over the weekend. Cleaned up the ash tray on the Z. Was very fortunate this wasn’t broken in a million pieces. test fitted the muffler and mounting brackets. Fit looks great. Got the air cleaner finished up and installed. Few more routings jobs left and the engine bay will be buttoned up. I also pulled the steering rack out and swapped out the U-joints. Didn’t realize the slop there was in them until after the column was reinstalled. Now it’s as tight as a drum.

Yeah, I'm not sure I did a good job of putting my thoughts into words. Av8ferg did a much better job than I did. So let me try again... So you think this forum exists for the purpose so you can ask us every question and you don't have to do any research yourself? is that why we're here?

I've been working off and on to make a wood steering wheel from a donner. 1) I stripped the old foam, sanded and powder coated the steel hub and spokes. 2) Cut up some walnut that sat around for 25+ years, soaked it in Cactus Juice wood stabilizer under vacuum, then let it soak up the juice for a week before baking it. 3) Resawed the wood and created two hexagons from the pieces, glued them together. 4) Made a router jig to cut circles, then cut a grove in the wood for the steel rim to fit in, then used the jig to cut the outside and inside diameters. 5) Glued up the two circles, sandwiching the steel rim and a 1/8-inch sheet of blood wood (also treated with Cactus Juice. 6) Routered a round over on the inside and outside of the steering wheel. Screwed up once breaking a 1/4-inch router bit and ripping out a bit of wood. 7) Sanded, sanded, and sanded. 😎 Finished with wipe on varnish. Now I'm waiting on someone to train me in using a Haas Mini Mill to make a new center coin for the padded horn button.

Cliff, exactly the same here... it's only that other people want money.. 😂haha... that's why i need money.. but i always sayd: fun on the job is MUCH more important than the money.. As a service engineer in security systems i came EVERYWHERE. From smallest house to the biggest villa and any businesses.. It was a job that i liked to get out of bed for almost every day haha.. But after 12 years i had an accident at work and i'm glad that i had a insurance for job loss due to incapacity for work.. I'm retired now you could say.. (this was around 2000) Around 2006 i had a small job just for a few hours but after i drove my fireblade (fast motorbike) against a big oak that job was ended also.. 😞 So what i wanted to say is: making less money is not bad but save yourself enough to get through life and have fun.. Mart

I've got a few more years before I can retire so I figure I'll make them the best I can. I didn't really want to post about something so personal but now I'm glad I did. All the positive replies from you guys have really made me feel good about my decision. Thank you all so very much! I don't like change but y'alls support has made a huge impact on me and my decision. What a great group of friends I have here! I only hope my contributions are helpful to someone. 1 person at least and I sleep good tonight.

Your life is usually what you make it. Sounds like you've made yours a whole lot better. Retirement did that for me.

Glad you're happier. So just how corporate are we talking? Are we talking "Now I understand Dilbert, and it's really really funny" kind of corporate? But whatever the details, Just glad you're happier!

Absolutely outstanding decision! Congratulations on taking the leap. You already know how happy you are now, just wait. It gets better.

Here's a couple of close-up pics of my wheel in process some years ago, one with it stripped and one with it stained and topped with a coat of clear lacquer. The preferred clear coat today is usually spray polyurethane. I used a hand-rubbed oil base stain.

Chickenman has done it I think , but he doesn’t get on here much anymore . Take the leap to programmable ECU - let the force be with you