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The reason I haven’t chimed in with my “favorite” is there are just too many to choose from. They are all my children, I don’t dare declare any particular one my favorite without risking the wrath of the others. I should lay them all out on the floor and take a group photo. At least I’ll try to contribute more to the thread I started called “Cool Tool of the Day”. One a week on Sundays perhaps.

I mostly stay out of the discussion of this because I went back to work to help fight the battle against this. The vaccines look to be good protection against the Delta variant. I'll add this caveat; virus' evolve. They look for a vulnerable host. If you're vaccinated, you're probably not a vulnerable host. For now, with the Delta variant, we who are vaccinated are protected. But, if the vaccine resistance continues, the virus gets to evolve and eventually, probably overcome the vaccination protection. This is simple. Don't be a vulnerable host. Get vaccinated!

The high speed video of the transparent carb makes you wonder how carbs actually manage to work so well in the real-world, under-the-hood, driving on less than pristine roads! This was really fun to watch!

Sounds great, thanks man. I'll PM you my address

Weld it and you will surely warp the outer skin all to heck. Why do you think the factory did not do so? Get a piece of 1/8" thick closed cell foam and make a new pad to slip into the gap. Here's an offer: I have the material and will make up the pad for you. All it will cost me is a stamp.

I completely agree. In fact, I mounted the plate and also replaced my choke cable per the instructions below: https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/repair-choke-cable/ I hung up my cable housing and sprayed some carburetor cleaner inside of it to get rid of the old grease , then shot some Seafoam Deep Creep lubricant inside and let run the length of the housing. The mounting plate and new cable made the choke engagement so much smoother and will probably save the choke handle in the process.

I think of a survivor as one that's not been wrecked that has original paint, glass and interior. Rebuilt original motor passes too. That's just maintenance like tires and oil changes. My opinion only.

I mentioned this a few weeks ago. I don't keep the components in my toolbox. To remove a pilot bushing, a slice of bread and a bolt slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the pilot bushing in the flywheel. A hammer and the bolt take the place of a grease gun and the bread acts like grease without the squeeze out.

Really? Are we out of contributions already? I think that the old Atlantic Z-Car site could deliver at least a dozen ideas all on its own. CO should be able match that. ZKars and Grannyknot, too.

Thank you guys for the resources. I knew about the gm hei and actually bought one, but decided to return it. I will defiantly keep that trick in my sleeve to pull out in the future if needed.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-FAIRLADY-260Z-280Z-PARKING-HAND-BRAKE-CABLE-EMERGENCY-/151459145571 from AK260 above. I ordered this cable from ebay as suggested above to check it for fitment and quality. I am very very impressed. Ordered Jun 23, arrived July 5th. Paid $102.53 CAD shipped and customs fees paid. Design is nearly identical to the OEM cable. Even came with a new pair of pins for the wheel end. @Joseph@TheZStoreI would suggest considering investigating if you can source these cables. Highly recommended them.

Too funny. I posted my post and thought "wait a minute. That has harmony01 all over it". Sure enough... It won't sell. It will end as "reserve not met". Edit - actually, nobody will offer that $74,500 price, it's not an auction. +74,000? It must be the trailer hitch. Or the velour. I've never seen "GARAGE" on the ignition switch. Japanese thing? Always learning something.

I have decided to install a 123 on my 260z this thread has contributed to my decision, as I am highly curious of an upgrade potential: and adding complexity to the car doesn't deter me. My 280zx non-t dizzy upgrade was installed by PO many yrs ago with a reman unit, has failed. I would like to tune my engine with the app, and see the results. I will update when I can.

Hope all of you are having a great weekend celebrating America's independence day!

Oh, and all that about dome alignment... Here's my dome / nozzle sleeve alignment tool. Centerless ground precision stock. Sub-thousandth tolerance. Take out the suction piston and put this in it's place: So how do you use it on the 3-screw round tops? Well, if you still have alignment nubbies, then you don't need to align anything. It should already be aligned. But if one or both of your alignment nubbies are broken off... Insert the alignment tool into the carb body and put the dome on: And then while the dome is held in "perfect" alignment, you cast the alignment nubbies in place: Fill up the hole and then wipe off any excess: Then once the nubbies cure, pop the dome off, and presto... New nubbies! : The eagle eye might notice that carb is a flat top, but the 3-screws used the exact same alignment technique.

I respectfully disagree. That needle/nozzle alignment method will not work on the odd bird 72 3-screw round tops. The nozzle sleeve is not adjustable on the 3 screw round tops. On those 72 carbs, the nozzle sleeve is pressed into the underside of the carb body and does not come out. Once it is pressed into place, it's fixed. No adjustment: So since the nozzle sleeve is hard fixed, they do the needle alignment using the dome up top instead. The three hold down screw holes are intentionally sloppy allowing the dome to be positioned in the correct location. With that in mind, the needle alignment on the 3-screw round tops is set at the factory using the cone shaped alignment nubbies. Cast in place once the domes were aligned with the nozzle position. The alignment was set at the factory. Once and done and (assuming the original nubbies have not been broken off) nonadjustable after they leave the factory. I assume they took that power out of the owner's and dealers hands because they felt they weren't doing it right. Here's a 3-screw nubbie:

Don't use it on a fire! lol

This is a pre-oiler I put together yrs ago, I use it for every engine rebuild just before start up or on engines that haven't run in a long time. The air hose attaches to the nipple I welded on, 2 liters of fresh oil goes in the canister, oil filter on the outlet hose, usually I screw the fitting into where the oil pressure sensor goes. Fill it with 90psi and squeeze the handle, the entire oiling system is filled including the engine oil filter.

my flywheel lock tool. I think it came out of the scrap pile ready formed.

Jet alignment Tool

SU Jet Sleeve alignment tool. @dk240z kindly made me a nicer version on this lathe back then!

I made this for pulling the rear axle. The round hole serves a dual purpose. Either to hold a breaker bar to allow removal of the axle nut or to use with a slide hammer to pull the axle.

Wheel bearing race drifts: 1" black iron pipe coupling (ground a tad smaller) 2" pipe nipple with threads ground a tad smaller.

Wow wow wow!!! How will you EVER have the heart to drive something that perfectly done!? Great work! [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji2309][emoji2309][emoji2309]