fusion

I would like the flares to lay directly on the metal without the added gap of the rivnut.

Any downsides to tack welding nuts behind the sheet metal for ZG flares instead of using rivnuts? Car is still in primer. I was thinking of drilling holes slightly oversized and using flange nuts to give more area to weld to. Is there room to fish a flange nut between outer and inner sheet metal on the rears after the first cut on the outer skin? For the fronts I think it's pretty straightforward. Any comments?

I just want to see what a roughly 24" tire looks like in the front wheel well of an S30. I am in the process of buying tires and just wanted to see what it looked like.

24" tires. But if anyone has ever fit 24" wheels on an S30, I'd love to see that!

Does anyone have a picture of an S30 with 24" tall tires? Extra credit if the car also has 26" tall rear tires. Thanks

Thanks everyone. I ended up ordering the new Brock-designed spoiler. I liked the extra width and the smoother backside.

I would like to get a rear spoiler for my 280z. I like the look of the BRE style 1 piece spoilers. I have a couple of questions: 1) I have read that if you have a rear spoiler without a front spoiler, the front end becomes light and squirrelly at speed. Is this true, and what speed are we talking about? This will be a street car with a few passes at the dragstrip per year. Is the BRE spoiler short enough that this effect is minimal? Car will have a Xenon type 1 urethane air dam with aluminum supports so it doesn't deform at speed, but no splitter per day. 2) Is the 'real/original' BRE spoiler a good choice? ( https://www.datsun-garage.com/products/the-original-bre-rear-spoiler-1970-78-240z-260z-280z?variant=31473838391380 ). Anyone have any experience? Any pictures? Seems like the 6 mounting points is a good idea. 3) Any other good options? Thanks

I put this off until now doing other things. Would appreciate any measurements people have. I plan to start from the back and work forward. Looking for gap measurements on: Fender to hood Fender to door Door to quarter panel Hatch to body

I saw that eBay seller. But do these pins give any greater functionally than the Dorman pins that are 4 times less money?

I am going to rebuild my door hinges on my 76 280z. Is the Dorman 38397 still a good option? Has anyone been able to source the roller detent pin? One of mine is broken. Does the pin from a 280zx or any other vehicles work? Otherwise maybe I could drill/tap for a shoulder bolt.

Thanks guys. Do they go behind the plastic trim piece that covers the back of the taillights? Or are they exposed? If exposed I'm going to remove them

What are these tubes for? At first I thought maybe for air release when the hatch is closed but I thought that's what the holes behind the C pillar emblems were for. Car is a 1976 280z that I am getting ready for paint and if these don't serve any purpose for me I'm going to cut them off and weld closed. I am using a plastic Camaro fuel tank if that matters.

I am painting my 280z and will be replacing every piece of weatherstripping on the car. I am going with Vintage Rubber front and rear windshield gaskets since I want to go 'Cal style' without the stainless trim. I am also going to use Kia Sportage weatherstrip for the doors and hatch. I believe these are the most critical seals on the car and people have had issues with some brands. But for the rest of the car, I am wondering if it's worth paying a premium for Vintage Rubber, or if the cheaper seals on Zcardepot (Precision?), or another vendor are totally fine Any comments welcome.

Where are people getting the Kia door seals from now that koraps is closed?

Thanks everyone