@siteunseen thank you for the help! I have some good news for today
So I decided to just swap the AFM as a future investment for the car. It had been tampered with previously before I got the car, so I had no idea where the OEM specs were for the cog. Picked it up from zcarsource about 20 minutes from my house.
Slapped it in and WHAM nothin, though it may have ran just a tad better. I also bench tested it, and the specs were a little closer to the online manual's. @siteunseen You were right though, the 150ohm didn't matter.
I pinched the return line briefly and it started leaks all over the fuel rail showering a highly pressured mist, so that with the pressure test confirmed the fuel pressure is solid. Also good to note I have a new pressure regulator.
I hadn't timed the car since the first start, and after fixing all the vacuum leaks it had me wondering. So while the car was running I moved the distributor and wellah! Idled much better (was still popping out the intake) and I could actually free rev it. It seemed like it wanted more, so i pulled the bolt out and twisted it past the little mount it had. Here, it ran even better, although when the car is warm it still stumbles at idle. However, it now free revs as I imagine the car should, and sounds healthier. So, what could this mean? Should I do some tests on the dizzy like if the vacuum advance works and such. Educate me, cause I am an idiot. So far my best theory is that somehow I messed up the mechanical timing and the ignition timing is compensating. Now that fuel and vacuum and the EFI system is set, its a matter of timing this puppy.
When running the timing light I could see that it was off of the pulley indicator and was reading somewhere in the negatives.
Here is a photo of what the dizzy is set to temporarily. We are close to settling this engines demons once and for all.