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The other downside of no longer wearing a mask, in addition to having to shave, is that people will be able to read your lips when you silently cuss them out. Personally, I'll miss that benefit of mask wearing. Stay strong, Cliff. Dennis

Here’s a perfect example. Eiji and I race once each year in Dinwiddie. In this race, he’s running a stroker with trips, larger valves and taller cam. I’m running my usual .080 cut, Isky Stage III with a .040 over bore. It’s pretty close till top end. On May 14th we run again.....this time I’m also running a stroker still with SU’s.....we’ll see how that comes out LOL. I love my SU’s. Turn up the volume. 8971BB1F-3839-469F-859A-361D92C3B750.MOV

Yeah.. Amazon... I don't like Amazon.. the way those people work.. so i avoid them.. I like to pay a bit more for that local guy! Then he stays in business, know what i mean?

Ooops! I assume it grew back?

Not if you are going to hook em up to a stock engine IMO. Now if you add all the other performance goodies, it may be worth your money and time. But for me, SU’s are cheap, easy to tune and provide plenty of juice to put a smile on your face.......especially if you add the other mods that work with them.

Long may you run!

I live in Huntington Beach, California. We have a lot of that HOA here although my particular neighborhood isn't HOA, a lot of people think it is just because they either lived here their whole lives or because they paid big money to live here. We also have some weird laws like if you have a non operable car in your drive way and it "makes a smell" and the neighbors complain, the city can tow the car if you don't move it. It's fair in a way but annoying when your neighbors threatens you with it. I moved it in my parents garage (I'm 20) thankfully so now I can enjoy the exhaust smell all to myself!

Yeah - .0015 - .0020 interference. The coefficients of expansion are ~12.5 for aluminum and ~9.76 for bronze. If the towers see a temperature change of 120F (bearings made at 80F, engine warms to 200F), then the bore in the towers would increase from 2.0400 (1.8898 + bearing wall thickness of .075) to 2.0431. The bearing OD would change from 2.0415 (2.0400 + .0015) to 2.0439, so still an interference of about 8 tenths. I'm beginning to like @madkaw's suggestion of sourcing another head.

Ask any red blooded male, the triple DCOE carb look and sound is frankly pornography and a mating call!!!! However, bear in mind that DCOEs were designed for racing / high performance applications. They will flow great at the top but you will lose low / midrange torque on your stock engine - unless you choke them right down, which imho defeats the object of installing a high flowing carb. Diseasd said it perfectly. Much like adding too big an exhaust / header, you lose gas velocity low down where the mass of air is, relatively speaking, small but the DCOE choke area is the same regardless. Less air speed = less fuel atomisation. The SU is designed to keep the air velocity constant across the jet by constantly varying the choke area. This means you get better atomisation low down / mid range (think torque / drivability). The carb opens itself wide when you put the hammer down at high revs / high load conditions to give you flow. That’s why for a stock engine SUs work so well. Last dyno session on ZTherapy SUs (with custom needles) my modified L28 touched 245bhp @ 6400rpm (where the operator ran out of balls). On the road, she pulls hard to about 6700 rpm without losing enthusiasm! So yes, they can also produce good power if properly set up. I’m sure a set of DCOEs can give me a few more ponies at the top but the cost per BHP equation doesn’t make financial sense. A big advantage of DCOEs is of course the lovely mangoletsi intake manifold with near straight runners to the head - great for flow! But if performance is not the concern and your objective is sound and looks, then there is no substitute for that intake roar of triple DCOEs!!

I agree with Chas. The Nissan joints come with the 7 sets of snap rings and are expensive, around $90 a pop as I remember.... As a alternative, you could get @Captain Obviousto calculate the mathematical number of variations of switching the yokes and joints around one at a time.

nitrous oxide switch.

Back in 2016 we had a similar discussion about propeller shafts and half shaft uni-joints. Might be helpfull to link it here. U-joint cap diameter: Propeller shaft 240Z/260Z: 25mm Propeller shaft 280Z: 22mm (Rockford type 430-10) Halfshafts: 28mm Steering column 280Z (Staked Dia:15mm x39mm)

Check to make sure you have these files to help with your EFI system..

I use the Griot's Garage products... I personally dislike the shiny wet-looking gloss products and prefer a low shine (on the inside). https://www.griotsgarage.com/ m

Here's a nice tire size calculator to play with: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Plug in your OE tire specs in #1 and try out different options in #2. Speedometer error kicks in when you change the outer diameter. Aspect ratio was not in play back when our cars were new. For my 240Z the OE 175X14's were generally thought to be about 78-80. @Patcon mentions the benefit of a bigger contact patch but that also can introduce an effect called "tracking" where the tire fights the steering wheel and wants to follow road irregularities, more noticeable with these relatively light cars. I've noticed that effect with the 205's now on my car. If your current tires are rubbing you probably want to consider something a bit more narrow. Unfortunately there are limited options in the 15" range. Good luck with your selection process.

Update.... My Z is finally home, tucked in my garage. Quite a journey getting her here. With a busy job, home construction delays, COVID, push back from my wife and logistical challenges it finally made it home. Thanks for all the help from the members of this forum. Now it’s time to get my hands dirty and make it ready to run like it was meant to be. Today is interior mold removal day. If my wife sees that mold it’s game over, she’s push it out and set it ablaze! Where is was stored had a serious mold issue and the interior has a light blanket of mold everywhere. I took these pics today.

I run 225/50/14 Hoosier Street TD bias plus on 14x7” on the race car. I have a set of 225/45/15 BF Goodrich G Force Rivals going on a set of 15x7” Panasports for my 72 street Z. Just right.

I dont really have recommendations on tires because size dictates the options. There are several threads about tire selection. The bigger the contact patch, the higher the grip. Even when turning

I never had that.. you use the original bolts (they fit very snug) and nut with the spring ring? I always use the originals and never had that problem.. shaking yes but that's because my early 71 car has no diff arrester band.. not even the connecting stuf on the underbody.. they are not there.. at 200km/hr it shaking vigarously but.. oh i have to restore my 240z for the 3th in it's life haha.. maybe in 2 years or so.. The driveshaft is a important part that needs to be in balance, i would bring it to a specialist, remember it turns at a high rpm and if it breaks it could break your legs right slamming through the chassis thats how dangerous it can get. (It would be exeptional but it's not impossible.) Talking about 0,02 mm or 0,0008 Inch.. i worked with parts that had a max play of 0,001 mm or 0,00004 Inches... (Mechanical-Electronics)

When you do check look into the carburetor. Push the piston up and use your phone to take a photo of the side or a video. Send that photo to us so we can see how the open the butterfly is.

Thanks guys, hahah. Made me laugh. I will take note to not do that when I rebuild the calipers🤣😎 Made a gasket from some old gasket like material I had. Here is my masterpiece of craftsmanship (I cleaned it up a little more after this photo) @Captain Obvious No I never did an initial vacuum check. I am waiting on a part to come in so I can rewire the harness for an AM alternator, so I am just using my time to try and fix the vacuum leaks. Not a bad idea at all though so I could have gotten a benchmark test, bummer. I will do one when it starts though as a benchmark before I start tinkering with other things.

Yes, I call that scrubbing. Struts, fender lips or an air dam if you have one. If they dont scrub then I would run as wide as I could

Do they scrub?

Bit late to the party so I'm not quite sure where you are as of right now with high idling carbs. I just recently posted about my carburetor "run away" some weeks ago. Seeing your photos of the linkages they looked too depressed. Is your linkage allowing the butterflies to fully close when you completely back off the idle air screws located on the carbs? I had that issue where my linkage was too short and causing the butterflies to be too open and cause the engine to appear to run away. Also look for vacuum leaks. Spray starter fluid everywhere and I mean everywhere. Did you make sure your intake is clean where it meets the head and gasket? Is the gaskets between the carbs and manifold healthy? Do you have gaskets between the balance tube and manifold? Are you certain you covered all the holes in the balance tube? Check your PCV valve. Mine was leaking and caused a vacuum leak. Unfortunately I found way too many places where vacuum leaks can occur and in my case all these places had vacuum leaks. Just takes time and patiences to find them all out. EDIT: I just saw your video of the 4000 RPM idle YouTube video and I think it might be your linkage? My linkage connection from the bell crank throttle to the throttle piece that goes to the manifold connects "on top" not under. Here is a photo for reference. The bottom photo is yours.

Gotta wash them every now and then Cliff. You don't wear the same skivvies everyday do you?

We could get Band-Aid to sponsor this... Do like the "Kartrashions" and brand our on band-aid with the Z logo. We'd get sued to hell and back but they'd be cool.

Underware=hide the cocktail.

If I wrote a Z book it would contain all the dumb things I've tried and failed at or worse injured myself than helpful tips. Hmm. maybe combining both subjects, like, when you blow the caliper pistons out with air, after the first one comes out, DON'T stick your hand in the caliper to block air from escaping out of the open cylinder. A hand is an effective method to facilitate the removal of the other piston but the rest of the brake job is very slow and painful.

Yep on the cleaning. Replaced the main ground strap. Hooked up the dangling lead. Checked the fusible links. Car started right up. The connection at the fuel pump is loose so I need to fix it. Thanks

I would think you could order it on-line? Amazon has it in spray bottles.

I own a Sunnen line bore machine and I would be trying different sets of towers before I went that route. Setting up the boring bar to bore the correct ID and getting the head true to the machine is a major PIA.

I'm not sure what you mean by phasing the the propeller shaft or halfshafts. The half shafts yokes should be in line, but that is very visable if they are not. The main source of vibrations after changing uni-joints is the tolerance in the uni-joint. The uni-joint should have 0,02mm endplay. This is important to keep the shaft centered and balanced. Nissan make 7 different sizes (1.49 to 1.67mm) to calbrate the tolerance to the correct specifications. This could be your source of the vibration.

On the plus side, it's one of the desirable colors, low milage if actual. The minuses are ... it's a 2+2 which will limit potential buyers, the fiberglass body kit may not appeal to all buyers. I'll guess at anywhere between 8 - 16k.

Jerry, The rounded top, phillips head wire hose clamps are zinc plated. Silver, not yellow cadmium. I DO have later style wire hose clamps with hex head screws that are cadmium plated, but they are not the 'correct' style for my early cars.

Yes, the original look when someone looks under the car or opens the hood, to some of us purist, is gratifying. The total cost of the original style hose was under $50.00 shipped. I have spent much more for much less when it comes to my car projects. Just to clarify, that is for the fuel hose not the NOS pre-formed vent hoses. Those were the proverbial "arm and a leg".

While the custom body shop starts to strip the paint and do the body work, I need to either upgrade or refresh the suspension, among other things. VIN is HLS30-13907 mfg. 11/70 I'm the original owner. Car has 58k miles but was in an accident years ago and fixed. Pennsylvania weather wasn't very kind to my rear quarterpanels. Now the custom shop needs to get it right. All struts are original with Koni shocks, but the shocks are old. I see there are plenty of threads for me to look at. I guess it'll take me some time to review them. Offset Delrin bushings are installed. I see the Z Store mentioned as a supplier site. I need to upgrade the brakes, front and rear. I would appreciate any advice to get me started. This is my 1st post. Thanks for bearing with me.

Again, all the SU mods listed above are for track use where you're at full throttle or nothing. On a 200hp track 240Z running SUs the throttle is a light switch: brake, turn in to the corner, slap the throttle to the floor. In some cases the mods above will not allow the car to idle and you will have to keep it running by blipping the throttle.

Always great information, Blue. I like my Roadster's megaphone. Bonzi Lon

Anyone notice the debris at the water pump cavity in the TIMING COVER 😉? Or at the exhaust ports? How about these pics of what was a brand new oil pump... Truly, now a wasted pump. Some serious debris has been through this motor. Why did the oil filter not catch it? Perhaps bc it went into bypass during winter starts and that 5hit went right on through to ruin the oil pump, timing cover, cam towers, and score the cam and crank journals. Maybe more. What I've not commented upon is the fine grit I found in the oil pan. I've spent a lot of time reflecting on what was going on at that time in my life ('96 - '97) to try to understand what might have happened. I've considered my negligence or oversight by allowing debris in the area while building this motor, machine shop debris left in passages (again, my oversight for not clearing it), sabotage by employees (I had received several serious threats), contaminated oil and antifreeze (IMPOSSIBLE), and so on. My principal concern is to avoid it happening again! The cost to have the original machine work done was painful then, now it'll be much worse. More later...