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I have installed the following parts and 100 miles in everything is working well, I have the shortest collar that goes with the “Type A” 4 speed

Wahoo it works! Thanks for the help @Firepower For anyone else who stumbles n this thread, here’s how I wired it up. I made a “Y” connector to connect the following wires: - Green/White - Red wire that goes to the distributor - Black/White wire that gets 12V when your key is switched to “on”. The other black/white wire (which does not read 12V when the key is in the “on” position) goes to the positive terminal of the coil.

I have some of these items, I will get some pic's and PM you.

Those Porsche people always had too much money. Especially for a car shaped like a dung beetle...😄

Hi Jeff, You can try an alternative check valve for the Bosch 044 pumps. Bosch 1 587 010 536 is a banjo type fitting with built in check valve and stil, easy to find on the internet. Be carefull not to buy the M12x1.5 fitting. You need the M10x1.0 fitting.

Update on the check vlave: I bought and installed an inline check valve for $10 and installed it between the filter and the fuel rail. I started the car yesterday to pressurize the system and then shut it off and let it sit for about 20 hours until this morning. The temp was mid-20's in my garage this morning, so it should be worst-case for cold starting along the trip. Prior to adding the check valve, the car would crank for 20 - 30 seconds and then try to start and cough a few times. It would require 2-3 starting attempts until the whole system was pressurized and all cylinders were getting good fuel. This morning, the engine cranked for only about 5 - 8 seconds and started for a few seconds before stalling. It then cranked for another few seconds before startin and chugging to life. As suspected, the fuel is now staying in the rail for the most part, but I think with the check valve so close to the engine, the underbody line is no longer full of pressurized fuel so the engine doesn't want to keep running once the fuel in the rail is burned. The check valve I added helps a lot but is not a 100% cure. As I did my final purge of old parts yesterday ahead of the move, I did find an old, rusty EFI fuel pump bracket with the pump and hoses connected. I don't know if the pump works or which car I even removed it from, but I was able to pull the check valve off. I tried to blow through it both ways and it must be varnished shut as I couldn't get any air through it. Once I'm in AZ, I will soak it in acetone an see if it is any good. If not, I will search for a new check valve similar to the OE part. I may hit you up @EuroDat if you are willing to sell one of your check valves. For now, I think the crank time is acceptable for transportation across the country. Thanks everybody for the help!

I looked at the photos in the link---nothing showing the under carriage or engine bay. Buyer beware!

Bingo !! After the rotten away wheelhousing they welded in a non original one! It's not round like the front one.. The lip is wrong also.. Congrets! Jim! Evidently much to square! In this pic you can see the fault really clearly..

It's 7:04 right now where I live in ARKANSAS. Time zones---- That rear quarter doesn't look right---am I getting warmer???

I made an instruction back when I had pressure problems 6 years ago. I posted it in the tech section. It will help identify where a leak in the fuel system is. It might help.

More golden age. I spent my day helping my neighbor work on his Cub Cadet lawn tractor . Simple belt change turned into an ordeal. He and I both would like to meet the engineer who designed it.....

When I was in high school a "friend" showed me how to wrap a blown fuse in Juicy Fruit wrapper to make the fuse work. It burned all of my headlight wiring. Those old Juicy Fruit wrappers must have been like 40 amp.

What engine ? What EFI ? Not enough info . I run 15.5- 16 at cruise with 45 degrees timing Idle as lean as I can 13.1-2 WOT

You are the man, man. 3 car garage with a Z in front. I recently read that's a sickness like a @Diseazd.

If the Zcon beverage budget does not work out either I should have a set as well.

Folks, what I'm going to write is not meant as a criticism of anyone but an observation backed by 50 + years of experience. Car spent a very long time at the body shop and is a 280. ALL 280s, approaching 50 years old or so now, suffer from a partially or completely plugged internal gas tank filter. The symptoms described fit the bill but let's prove it before we start throwing money at the problem and hope it goes away. If a customer brings a 280 to me with performance problems and the cause isn't obvious the next step - ALWAYS the next step - is to install my fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. The first test is to see what the fuel pump, original pumps are still available from Nissan and God do I hate to see an aftermarket pump cobbled together with the reason given, "those Nissan pumps are too expensive", is capable of. With the engine running I pinch off the return line. The pressure gauge should immediately go to about 55 psi. If at the same time the car starts to run much better then you can count on the in tank filter being at least partially plugged. If after pinching the return line the pressure doesn't increase markedly then the pump is shot. Based on reading most of the posts it sounds like a classic partially plugged in tank filter. I've seen lots of 280s that came out of storage , same as sitting a long while at a body shop, with partially calcified in tank filters.

Given the fact that I'll be driving this car only infrequently, and will likely never park it or leave it unattended, I'll forego the bumper. Thanks.

TBH those values look pretty good. I wouldn't go leaner than low 14s at idle. Mid 14s at cruise, no need to go leaner unless you're doing big mileage and want to save a few pennies.

Saturday and Racer isn't spending it at The Big Shed drillin' and fillin'.

You can call me Racer, Steve, ;) For sure, the quality of the refurb should have commanded a much higher price, especially for a car like this. Considering all the labor involved, and the coordination and management of the build, the guy barely broke even, maybe even lost money.

The last receipts were in 2008. They showed a new battery installed and a locked up rear wheel cylinder. The car was not safe to drive and the PO declined to have the wheel cylinder fixed. Mary Beth said her husband could no longer drive the car about ten years ago. The story jives with the receipts. She said she would help her husband into the car and he would run it in the garage. She finally remembered that he stopped sitting in it because the car ran out of gas. I think that's why it started so easily for me. I will have the transmission out this winter and will take a look. The car was driving in the 1990s. I live on Holly and Evans. It could have been the same car. Small world.

Roebling road June 1st 2018 90 degrees, afternoon start time, slippery..... Sloppy driving, but sooo much fun!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boe5EcOWr3I

John Morton at 76, a pretty tidy drive.