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"It's been a long time coming but I know a change is gonna come" Whether you like it or not.

My take on taxing fuel in my country is as simple as higher prices on everything that has to be transported. After Katrina diesel fuel prices went crazy. Then the trickle down began to cause consumer prices to rise on everyday needs. We vote with our wallets over here and there's way more empty ones than full.

The throttle bodies are SU carburetors. The domes and float bowls have been removed, and the nozzle is plugged. The injectors sit in adapter plates that replaced the domes. The kit is from Patton Machine (http://www.pattonmachine.com/) using a GM ECU from Affordable Fuel Injection (https://affordable-fuel-injection.com/). I used -6AN fittings and hose in the engine bay and selected a Walbro fuel pump because it fit better on the fuel pump mounting bracket on the 260Z. I had to run a tap into the throttle linkage for the shaft that operates the TPS. The headers already had an O2 bung hole courtesy of the gentleman I purchased them from. I was able to tuck the ECU on the firewall in the passenger footwell on the firewall. I utilized many factory connections in the wiring, so it ended up being fairly clean. The GM TBI also runs at low pressure (<15PSI), so you don't have to swap everything over to high pressure hoses. Another benefit is that there are TONS of GM TBI parts available along with plenty of information online. I believe you could also work with Rick Patton to integrate a MegaSquirt ECU into the system to give better flexibility in tuning. I totaled up the cost of swapping in 280Z FI parts and MS. It was more than this kit. This kit is also different from what you'll typically see in Z cars. Only a handful of people have done this kit. I am tempted to do this on the 240Z when I make it a priority to get it running again.

Hey everyone just wanted to give a quick update. I decided to stick with the wheels I had and lowered it and did a 240z bumper mod. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed. I didn't put my relays in the interior (they are out in the engine compartment), but I used four relays. One per side per beam. Not only is it a more fault tolerant system, but it also minimizes the voltage drop in the switching system. Down sides are the obvious cost and complexity, but relays are cheap and the complexity is a once and done thing. With the relays, I find my old original incandescent bulbs to be quite enjoyable on a dark road.

ODB? Ol' Dirty Bastard? Wu Tang. I think OBD-I uses flashing lights on the ECU. Watch and count. Anyway, hope it was just an odd occurrence.

Love Robert Johnson!!!

There might be someone who lives in about an hour away from you who knows about installing relays.

From my past experience it also works upside down.

And I put a furry blue sour cream container in the trash can today that I should have recycled. @Dave WM and I are clearly wildmen living the American dream!! In my own defense, out of the corner of my eye, I think I saw it move under it's own power. I didn't want to stick anything in it to clean it out.

Or we may find that driving is not even an issue, and oil will pile up. I have not commuted to work in the past 12 years, I suspect with the sudden realization that a LOT of the work force does not need to commute there will be even less driving. With VR substituting for family vacations, with amazon delivering your groceries, with doctors seeing patients remotely, with robots taking over all forms of jobs (hastened by the min wage being deemed a 'living wage", there was a robot doing my 1st job, a porter, at a store the other day) so less people will be needed, next up will be taxi and pilots by machines, eventually we become bags of protoplasm sitting in a matrix. In the early seventies this was all the rage (save the earth, running out of oil, global freezing, opec oil crisis) all the young folks were yelling at the old folks telling them they were messing up the world (remember the crying American Indian in the canoe), so this is nothing new, but I have come to realize (with age) that you cant predict what will be the next real problem. I grew up with constant warnings about dui, well I think distracted driving is a bigger problem, also about kids wasting too much time with TV shows, now its video games. Good luck the figuring out what the next gen issues will be for beleaguered parents to deal with. Good luck deciding where resources taken from tax payers by force should be used. Or just live your life as well as possible without taking from or hurting the other guy. Be conservative with all resources, as you will prob get it wrong trying to guess the future.

They look utterly brilliant on that car and with that body colour!!! [emoji106][emoji106]

Been going to Delhi for years, everytime descending below 10,000 feet you begin to smell the pollution and by the time you're at the hotel my lungs would be burning. Black funk comes out everytime you blow your nose. Climate change (if you believe the current climate of it) pun intended, and India is a joke, they cant even make the air inhabitable. Maybe billions of US tax dollars will clean it up.

Mr Duffy created the perfect euphemism with that. Knowingly I suppose? My sarcasm senses are off these past 4 years.

I don't have Windows 7 Pro on the two laptops with Windows 7. The software does run in compatibility mode. I probably just need to see if replacement batteries are still available for the laptops. They are Toshibas, so that improves the chances. When I make it a priority, it could happen.

"ding" "please drive more carefully!! " "ding"

Thatis because you have the later version. The version for the F4W71B and 280Z F5W71B is not what you see on most of the websites. I don't think it is still available. The later version 280ZX F5W71B and the F5W71C that had the non electronic speedo have the locating bolt under the speedo adatpor. You bought an adapter for those transmisions. All the seals and pinion will fit your adapter, but I don't like your chances of getting the inner seal out without damaging it. It is a simple fix. The groove for the locating tab and M6 bolt is on the wrong side so you can make a new groove or send it to a machine shop to make one. You can make a groove yourself by carefully cutting a groove with a hacksaw and fine tuning it will a small metal working file. Buy a file that fits easilly in the original groove. Remove the outer o-ring seal and tape over the ends to prevent shaving entering the adapter. Don't go too deep or it will allow the adaper to turn and the gears will loose contact. You can test if it is deep enough by fitting it to the transmission (without o-ring or pinion gear) then fit the tab and bolt. Take little steps at a time. Too far and it is ruined. Tip: To check that you are exactly opposite to the original groove. Use two too straight edges like a ruler or back of a hacksaw blade. Place one in each groove so they extend out the same direction. If they are parallel to each other, then your new groove is exactly opposite. I wouldn't use your original adapter without replacing the inner seal.

Yep, I'm getting tired after fighting that problem all day. OBD-I does use the flashing lights after you put the paper clip in the right terminals of the ECU. There is software that allows a PC to read the codes, too, without having to count blinks. Unfortunately that software barely runs right on Windows 7, and you can forget about using it on a later computer. I still have a couple of Windows 7 laptops around, though. I'm not sure how good their batteries are. I can datalog with this setup, too, and even get Affordable Fuel Injection to create a new map. At least I have some idea of what happened, and I know more about diagnosing the system. That should make future issues less problematic...I hope.

The thing is with LEDs is that you MUST have relays. I have not come across an LED headlight that can use 2 negative wires and 1 positive wire. I actually did come up with a "no splice" method of integrating the relays for the 72 and 73. I did a proof of concept on a friend's car. It is similar to what Dave Irwin (@Zs-ondabrain) did in the kits sold by MSA. I just get the headlight power from the fuse box. I just need to inspect the wiring in person for a 70 and 71 to design those because some things aren't lining up in the wiring diagrams. Now it's a different story for the 260Z and 280Z. I have laid out a general design, but the challenge is that with the 260Z, they switched the dash to engine harness plugs to a Yazaki design that I haven't been able to track down. @Captain Obvioushelped me some with developing my ideas in another thread. What doesn't help is that the only source I can find for Yazaki connectors and terminals is Eastern Beaver in Japan. (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html) I would need to back out the wires from the connectors at the dash-to-engine harnesses and do my re-wiring there. It is feasible, but I haven't done it, yet.

LED bulbs in H4 housings are next on my list to try. I have the bulbs. I have an extra set of H4 housings. I just have to move it up the priority list.

Follow up: It is running now. As I mentioned previously, I found some good diagnostics on the TBI. I checked for 12VDC at the injectors - Good. I unplugged the TPS to clear codes in case the ECU locked in that it was flooded. I tried using an ohmmeter to look for a grounding pulse on the injector with the meter...As I cranked, it sounded like the engine wanted to fire, so I kept cranking until it fired. The engine ran briefly on one injector, dying soon after I stopped cranking. I plugged in the rear injector lead and tried again. No start. I unplugged the rear injector again and got the engine to run briefly, but it died again when I plugged the rear injector lead back in. I unplugged the front injector lead and got the engine to run. I played with the throttle to keep it running while I plugged in the front injector lead, and it kept running with both injectors. My stress level dropped significantly. I should probably invest in a noid light kit. Anyway, I attached a document I created that has the images of the pinouts for the ECU and some of the diagnostics I was trying when I got the car to run. @Zed Head, I thought it might pique your curiosity. TBI Diagnostics.docx

Oh brother were art thou...

Ohhhh... that's nice...

I realized I have one good original negative cable on the new to me 71 I just picked up. Now “we” need one of those original blobs to use to make reproduction blobs.... I’ve taken detailed measurements of the cable, lugs, wires etc. Finding the very heavy lugs that Nissan used is going to be a challenge in todays cheap crap marketplace. The big cable lug is a brass or copper monster made with 2mm thick metal and has a lovely crimped connection done with a serious tool.

Recently sent an A trans to Aussie land to get fixed . The Datsun guy there thought the USA was in a sad place . He didn’t like the lock downs, but thought USA looked uglier without . The world is watching us .

At least you have Grumpy Cat to enteryain you.

There's a guy near me on hybridz that has turbo ls in one and supercharged ls in another. They are super fast but he wishes he had them back in stock form after their value went through the roof. Something to think about. Find a cheaper 280 and put the crate motor in or even better the rb.

1970 Fembot auditions, I think...

I own two S30s and am an original owner of one of them, for which I have been in the process of doing a restomod for several years. I am also a retired R&D chemist with a background in plastics and rubber chemistry and processing. I have been frustrated several times regarding the various small rubber bits that go into my S30 as, I'm sure, are many other owners of old Datsuns. Many rubber parts are simply "no longer available," at least through the Nissan parts system. With the closure of Black Dragon a few years ago, the situation got worse. And, some of these NLA parts, especially those approaching 50 years in service, are simply "tuckered out" due to the heat cycles and oxidation they have seen over the years. I have tried casting my own urethane parts with limited success but without the expensive injection molding machinery and matched metal molds used by OEMs, my results have been mostly unsatisfactory. This is especially true of parts that have significant 3-D shapes. However, over the past several years, a new process has arisen to aid folks in this situation. It is commonly called "3-D printing" but is more properly termed "additive manufacturing." It is now widely used in many industrial R&D settings and produces parts by "printing" an object layer upon layer from a computer file. Really high-powered operations -- like Formula 1 constructors -- can produce both plastic and metal parts. My first question is whether any of you know of vendors who make NLA rubber parts for our cars? I would certainly like to get in touch with these folks. My second question is if there are no such vendors, would having one make your lives a bit easier? I ask that second question because now that I am fully retired, I have been toying with the idea of acquiring a good 3-D printer to make the parts that I need and, at the same time, help out my fellow S30 (and, eventually, other old car) owners. I would not be not looking to compete with anyone who is currently supplying NLA rubber parts. In fact, if there is such a vendor, I'd welcome the opportunity to become one of its suppliers so it can expand its business and take care of the marketing and sales end of things. While I've had my own business in the past, I prefer to simply be a technical resource at this stage of my life. Please let me know what you folks think of this possibility for supporting our hobby and passion.

My local station is currently selling at £1.17 / litre which is consistent with your US gal figures or $6.95 UK gallon. When I bought my first car in 1995, it was as low as £0.38 / litre. How is it we haven’t gone out with our pitch forks? Well, it’s the boiling a frog situation! Little by little it rises and people just swallow it. We did have protests back in the early 2000s when it hit £1 / litre but people soon forget and move on. You could argue it’s offset by wage inflation and car efficiency going up. But what kills me is that 70% of our fuel price here is tax! Also, every time I see an Arab number plate on a n illegally parked gold super car / Lamborghini in central London (clearly flown over on a private 747 for kudos) I can’t help thinking I own a small share of that car given what we spend at the pumps! Rant over!

I fear that the next step (in both Canada and the US) may be the implosion of the healthcare system due to a combination of worker fatigue, fear, resentment and (sadly) illness. And, by 'worker', I include doctors and nurses. There is a useful article in today's Toronto Globe and Mail that discusses the measures taken by local and state governments in and around Melbourne, Australia back in the late summer to address the emergence of a post-first-wave spike that they feared would get out of control. Three months later, they look like geniuses. Melbourne, by the way, is similar in population and geographic size to a typical medium-size US city. Worth a read.

Your bores look normal to me. Mine had that unused top grunge. The rings don't go that far up. Looks to me like your front carb was out of adjustment and carboned up #1 #2 and #3 cylinders, bores and valves, maybe from over fueling? "that'll buff out!" Sorry Dutchzcarguy if I caused you a lost sale.

took my z out and burned some gas, pumped out some carbon, and loved every minute of it. 75 mile round trip so I could feed some tree rats some pecans, harvested no doubt by some huge combine like machine. Now going to change the engine oil after 2500 miles cause it looks a bit brown.

In the meantime, I need to finish the sound deadening in my 280ZX while the weather permits driving!! 😎

Two weeks is forever when you can't go anywhere. This will be my third time. Just like the other two, I'm on the first day and already climbing the walls. We are social creatures, and most of us thrive on social contact. Take that away, it is a huge change, one that is a challenge to manage.

I had a set of cables that the "blobs" were still on, but the ends were replaced with straight generic ones. This is what I did to make them more right(er). I used the covers as a mold.

Was it Country music?

Having grown up in that era it's hard to beat a set of Libres for a classic racing look but I have Rota Grids on my Z and I really like them.

A picture's worth a thousand words! Here's a moving one. a93cf8f82e7d0004995550c888a792af edit: not sure if the embed worked, here's a link: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10153829065345327

Not sure you got the complete picture of how this should work yet. Let's see if I can make it more complete. Put the clip into the slot in the handle, ALL THE WAY into the same position it will be in when snapped onto the splined post on the door. The closed end of the clip will stop right up against the barrel of the handle where it can go no further. You should see both sides of the clip now proturding into the handle barrel (where splinded door reg post will go) evenly and centered from both sides. When you press it in place (whack with flat palm), it will spread and snap into the mating groove in the post. You do you NOT push it down into place AFTER putting the handle onto the post. While this might work, its definitely the hard way. And yes, MAKE SURE the closed part of the clip is facing the handle so you have a prayer of getting it off later with a hook. The rag trick is also good for removing it.