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Even though the FSM says not to bother un-peen the original nut before removal, don't believe it!! They say just put a wrench on it and take it off. Again... Don't believe it!! As grannyknot mentioned above, if you take the original off without relaxing the peened area first, it will mess up a bunch of thread. I've tried it and (while still usable), the results weren't pretty. And as far as being able to un-peen and reuse the original nut, I think it would be very unlikely. More power to ya, but for the cost of a new nut, it's a theory that I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to prove. I do a lot of unnecessary time consuming stuff like that, but that's below even my threshold!

Hi everyone. I am the owner of the rolling shell for sale on Ebay and the instigator of this thread - big apologies for not making this clear in the first place. Also sorry for not participating more in the discussions but I've been busy the last few days preparing the rear of my 1970 240Z car for primer and a base coat before the cold weather takes a hold. I must also apologise to HS30-H (Albrecht) for copying his thread from the ZClub UK website without acknowledging him or asking his permission to do so. So in my view the real interest in the shell is that it is a low 260Z chassis number that was taken off the production line before being built up into a complete car. I know that I have no paperwork to prove this but I am very confident that anyone who has experience with working on S30 cars who see it in the flesh would agree. I suppose my question is, how much would a similar shell sell for if Nissan were to offer one today as a spare part? Now in terms of the BSR association. Let's face it, it's a nice story BUT even if it were true the shell was never actually built into a race car. It's an association - nothing more. Saying that, if it was eventually completed as a BSR tribute car then it would be a fitting conclusion to the story. The Skyline conversion was undertaken maybe 5 or more years ago by a small restoration shop who are local to me and who specialise in MGB's. They have done an OK job but in hind-sight it should have gone to a Z specialist. Four years ago out of the blue I had a serious illness and it took me some time to recover from that and shortly afterwards I took early retirement. I recently concluded that owning three Z's was not a good long-term strategy so I sold my 260Z UK track-day car about 6 weeks ago and now the 260Z US rolling shell is for sale. To be honest, I really don't want to let it go but in reality it's the right thing to do as it would mean that I can concentrate my resources on the 240Z which will keep me busy for the next year or two at the pace I'm currently achieving i.e. very slow. Regarding the asking price, yes I've set it on the high side and why not? I'm in no rush to sell and I have in fact had some interest from a couple of people. I'm under no time or financial pressure to let it go so I thought OK let see what happens. I'm aware that it is unlikely that it will go state-side especially considering the additional shipping and import costs involved but if you don't try then you'll never know. I just thought that it would be good to let you guys know that this shell was for sale. I also really don't mind any negative comments, I'm too old and ugly enough to get wound up about things like that any more. Hope you all have a good day, Dave

This is one of those critical moments in running a business. Do you take a relatively small loss, to keep your customers happy and your reputation in good standing. Or do you hold your ground to save that small cost of fixing the problem, destroying the good will that exists and damaging future sales. California Datsun comes to mind. I hope these guys can handle the broad view. They have a huge selection of parts now, the business has grown quite a bit since it first appeared, not that long ago. This thread is like a case study in a business course. What not to do. Let's see what happens next... https://zcardepot.com/

LOL. Commitment issues. Here's what I did: After I got the original peened nuts off, I completely removed the shoulder where the peening was originally located. I cut mine off in a lathe, but you could do the same thing with a file or grinding wheel. The end result was a "test nut" that I could install and remove any number of times without damage to anything. Using test nuts, I could put everything together and make sure it all worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what my nuts look like: Then when I was completely convinced everything was done right, I took the test nuts off for the last time and replaced with the one-time-use ZX nuts.

Over the course of the summer I pulled pretty much all the "auxiliary" parts off the engine, cleaned/refurbished them, and re-installed them. The cleaning was made gooey-er than usual by a late-1990's trip to Toronto's cottage country with the oil cap removed. I can report that a fresh oil, sand and grit mixture remains fresh for 20 years. The engine isn't exactly clean, but it's night and day better than when I started. I've used several of the suggestions from this thread for parts, including crossborderpickups.ca, which I've since recommended to several others. Thanks guys! Anyway, yesterday was a big day in the garage: https://photos.app.goo.gl/re6ZWjiwKuRkZgZx7 First start in about 20 years. The observant will notice a few missing sub-systems and some "non-OEM" parts. I also learned what the fuel return line does in the 45 seconds or so I let the engine run. Who'd have thought that a fuel return line would return fuel to a non-existent gas tank? One step at a time! So many of the discussions in this forum were helpful, but I'd be remiss if I didn't single out a couple of the very long, sometimes comical, threads about carburetor adjustment. You guys display admirable patience! I'm happy to report that the "bend the float tang" per the FSM/Haynes manual method got me this far in one go. We'll see what happens from here!

Everything these gentlemen (and by that definition I am making a huge assumption of course[emoji12]) have said !!!!! The only thing I would add to what has already been said, is that having done this job, I did have to take off one side about 4 times as I was getting quite a lot of inexplicable friction when I was using the fish scales to measure pre-load. Thanks to HS30-H’s brilliant advice, it transpired that the seal in discussion hadn’t fully gone home and needed some gentle persuasion to go that final 1/2 mm that made all the difference. So, plan for undoing that nut and make sure you are super happy before peening!!

Absolutely not a problem, and I'm pleased to help in any small way I can. I remember the bodyshell very well, and I'm glad it still exists. Here's the thing: Show Me Another! as they say. There aren't many opportunities to buy what is clearly a factory-supplied, numbered but un-used (ie, not built into a running and driving complete car by the factory, and sold as such) bodyshell.

And as for the project, I made some progress. Hacksaw with a sharp new blade made quick work of the perches. I was worried that it would be a real chore doing it manually without a machine, but it was actually quite easy: Turning the strut in the vise as I broke through. And it was quite easy to tell when I broke through as well, so I didn't cut into the strut tube: Go all the way around and then used a rubber mallet to tap the perch up and off: Rinse and repeat on the other side and here's where I am right now after grinding off the weld beads:

Looking forward to it (or them). Would be nice to take yon on an excursion with site! Vorticity, Glad you got the brakes sorted out, and sorry for the diversions. Glad you caught the heater hose before it went wide open. I split one of mine a couple years ago and didn't notice until the gauge was pegged. By the time I got home, there wasn't enough coolant left to leak.

I am fortunate to have this tire clamp for my 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z.

Dear Datsun Brethren I try from time to time to come to the aid of all manner and nature of Datsun people, and last weekend I had the good (cough cough) fortune to work on a 69 Datsun Roadster. It had leaking brake lines after replacement, and I was able to assist the owner with the repair. Something about "just tighten the nut more. It won't break"... But along the way, I discovered something that we need to be aware of as righteous Z owners. Chances are it will never happen to you, or me, but you need to know. As part of the trouble shooting, the owner of said Roadster brought a spare "Switch - Brake", you know, that safety brake light switch block on the fender well that turns on your dash BRAKE light if either side of the brakes loses pressure. We have discussed it's care and feeding previously. Here it is on a Z in case you visual learners need a picture. Here is the one he brought with him from his Roadster. I was questioning whether perhaps his ancient beast used DIN flares or some craziness and that might the source of his leakage, so he brought an example for me to examine. Looks da same to me as our Z part, right? We use the same one a 510 and I'm sure many other models, right? WRONG!!!! The tube nut threads on this abomination are some SAE nonsense, yikes 3/8-24!! Yes the horror of it all. SAE parts on a Datsun. As if having SAE seat belt bolts isn't enough of a embarrassment for most Datsun owners already. Now this comes as no surprise to any Roadster owner I'm sure, as they preach that the front half is SAE and the back half is Metric. Talk about fake news! Anyway, some day, some kind hearted Roadster-owning soul may offer us unexpecting trusting Z owners his spare "Switch-Brake" when we are at our most vulnerable, stuck on the side of the road (in Podunk Kansas of course), and yee shall be sorely disappointed and down hearted should you attempt to install it. Ensure he attempts to thread in both M10x1.0mm nut and a 3/8-24 before bothering to send it. It is true what is written... 46100-26001 is not the same as 46100-U5200 (maybe the insides are the same, doubt it though!) You've been warned, my job is done here. Go forth and merrily forget this nugget of truth.

If it can be registered here in the UK and obtain the correct paperwork (and I think that's a possible with a little work), then there would be nothing stopping it from being imported to anywhere else in the world and road-registered as any other imported old car would. But I think it's a moot point anyway. I feel it will sell in the UK, and probably stay in the UK.

I would get a small container that is suitable. Fill it with fuel and feed the carbs out of that. That will help isolate the problem. If it goes away, it's in the tank or supply lines. If it doesn't it's mostly from the fuel filter forward. We'll use a gatorade bottle with some holes in the lid for fuel line. Don't leave fuel in it long term. Some plastics will melt!

In my 1983 ZXT manual it's on pages FA-4 or FA-8. The diagram on FA-4 is best. Glad you asked, it's a very low torque spec, 12-16 Lbs/Ft. It would help if you'd mention the year of your Z, just in case it's quite different.

Thanks for showing me your nuts Captain...I think. 🙄

pbbbbbt. Torque spec. Seriously though. I'm sure there's a spec, but 40 ft-lb sounds a little high for that small of a bolt. Another vote to check the manual.

I believe the poly should operate the same way the originals do. Meaning... There should be a metal sleeve that runs through the center of the bushings. You're supposed to tighten the nut down until there is metal-to-metal contact between the washers and that sleeve. The compliance of the bushings is supposed to compress until that point. In theory, you should be able to feel the tightening torque shoot up once all the play has been taken up.

Right, you see I have a problem with commitment. My luck, the minute I peened the nut, I would find a reason to have to remove it. This is why I was wondering if the 280ZX nut is reusable.

Here you go... S30 Seat Cover Replacement (Hardway).pdf

Removing the older peened axle nut destroys the top 3-4 threads of the axle shaft, if you use a thin cutoff wheel with a Dremel and slice off the peened area before removing the nut the threads will survive.

and great minds think alike HS30-H 😄

That's why I posted them above. The vendor. He's also the OP on this thread, so you can ask him about it right here. Admittedly it is anecdotal at this point, but a connection to Bob Sharp Racing makes explains this bodyshell's existence and - one time - presence in the USA. Here's the thing: Have you ever seen or heard of Nissan supplying a bare - unused - bodyshell for an S30-series Z? This is something that they simply did not normally do. Unlike other manufacturers, Nissan did not supply complete bodyshells as spare parts ('Body In White' in the vernacular) let alone fully numbered bodyshells, so it is something clearly outside of normal practices. Being supplied as a spare bodyshell for a well-affiliated race team - right on the switchover from '240Z' to '260Z' models - adds up. And the chassis number of this bodyshell is very close to those of other BSR cars too. It seems to add up.

I didn't have any problem with M-Speed Japan having wheels made and selling them to the general public, as they were good quality and a fair price for ex-Japan sales. I recommended the M-Speed reproductions to several people, and several friends of mine bought them and are happy with them. So, no problem at all with M-Speed product. So, you have approved the Chinese factory wheels and it's hardly surprising that you and your friends thought them a ‘fair’* price compared to Made in Japan JDM wheel prices as these wheel manufacturing costs were so much less.** Negative, or just willing to call you out? I'll put that down as both a 'cannot' and a 'will not'. You can put that down as ‘CBA’, Alan but I answered your questions in the Z432 thread and copy them here for your information : These wheels are of the same quality as those offered for sale by M-Speed so I don't need to have visited the factory to satisfy myself of their build quality and metal content - please stop scaremondering the public - it's is irresponsable and you place a doubt on anything 'made in China - THAT is what our initial discussion was on the subject of these wheels - your consistently blinkered belief that anything made outside of Japan is of an inferior quality for 'our' Zs ! Since you haven't answered my above questions, it's hard to come to any conclusions. . If M-Speed Japan have green-lighted sales direct from the Chinese factory for some reason (there could be any number of reasons). You don't answer any of mine so try to reach those conclusions - you’re a smart man but I'll help you out again - M-Speed aren't selling enough for the factory to make money....now, why aren't they selling enough and before I came along.....? The product excitation has long since died down after their apparition two years ago. If they hadn't been out-sourced to a Chinese factory, they would probably never have existed if we accept the actuel price of them reflecting the real start-up investment ; making them elsewhere made them possible. But again you are guessing, surmising as to how much are the costs ! I know because I've paid for the molds of another wheel and I know the build costs of these current wheels. I'm no multi-national parts group, I could afford it ! Now the angle is 'piracy' ! But who (if anyone) is committing piracy here..........? piracy : the unauthorized use or reproduction of another's work. .......the buyer, the seller or the productor ? I bought these simply by contacting the factory and asking to buy them : "yessir, how many would you like - there is a MOQ (minimum-order-quantity)" ? Alan, no doubt correctly, states that these have been on sale for two years....plenty of time to have sold hundreds and recovered the start-up costs......but the wheels aren't selling (wonder why ?*) and the factory needs to produce and sell...that's how any factory makes money for it's owners and workers ! *M-Speed have set the marker price too high !!! Please stop manipulating the public. Did M-Speed even have permission to copy a Nissan factory wheel ? These wheels and those of M-Speed are not made in Japan, they are not genuine, period wheels - we all call them 'reproductions' but to all intents and purposes they're 'fakes' . Knock-offs – the definition quoted from https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/knock-off : a cheap copy of a popular product That sums up M-Speeds’ wheels and mine ! Or are we saying that so long as that cheap product is sold expensively, it’s rubber-stamped as ok ? We’re getting close here to the emperors’ clothes….. In someone elses' world, $650 per wheel might be a ‘fair’ price but I’m just another reguler guy with kids in college and I'm offering them to reguler Z owners at an affordable price - $350 each upon which I’m making a ‘fair’ profit with which to reinvest. This company doesn't sell these for free, they're getting their cut out of the M-Speed profit margin : https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-fairlady-z432-magnesium-wheels-aluminum-wheel-sold-individually?variant=15222843539565 Perhaps it does come down to ethics : you either buy mine or you pay double the price, believing that 100% goes to help M-Speed......like sending money to African-aid charities where 5% of it finally reaches those that need it unless the local warlord or civil servant doesn't pocket that too ! 1) I believe that every Z owner should have access to quality parts at affordable prices. 2) Alan, by attempting to place doubts on these wheels' quality, by stigmating anyone who touches them as a pirate and suggesting that you should pay double my price if you REALLY want them merely, IMO, highlights his wish to keep this 'look' to an exclusive 'club' of owners who can throw that sort of money at their cars - his reasons against my entreprise are solely driven by a selfish desire not to see the prolification of these wheels which, in his words, "is bad for all of us in the long run". To show my good intentions and to support this forum, I will offer a us$60 reduction of the purchase of a set of these wheels to all supporting members. ps : proof that I know what it costs to make wheels !

If you look at the face (hex) side closely and you can just see the dimples at third spacing. That makes the nut self locking. Yes, they are supposed to be reuseble

Found it. Very weird that this part, which nobody ever talks about ever, showed up twice within two weeks.

Find the very recent thread about that part. Somebody mentioned that it actually keeps dirt, dust and water out of the bearing. So, dirt, dust, and water would be the issue(s). Use the 280ZX nuts. They need neither.

Just one?

Man's got to know his limitations.

Good luck to the OP, but I'm just trying understand how it can be worth $15,000 (~). Fun to talk about it. He needs the paperwork that supports the rumo(u)rs.

There's effectively no copyright on the original Kobe Seiko design, and several different companies have made replicas over the last 50 years. You cannot label or market them as Kobe Seiko items, that's all. The problem here is effectively piracy of M-Speed's IP software, molds and R&D. We all know how many of these Chinese factories operate, and to buy product from them - which others have invested time, know-how and money to - is effectively encouraging piracy. If anybody wanted these wheels, they were freely available for the last two years from M-Speed Japan at a price which reflected the time and expense in setting such a project up. Buying via the back door is bad for all of us in the long run.

In a fire bad enough to ignite Elektron Magnesium wheels (which the original Kobe Seiko wheels were made from) on an S30-series Z, the fumes from the burning interior plastics and vinyl would kill you first. M-Speed's replicas are made from Aluminium alloy.

I would get some Kroil like Yarb recommended then try what captain obvious recommended. Personally Ive had more luck welding a nut onto the stud and using a impact to taking them out. The heat helps it break out. I also have this metric stud removal tool that I've used ..... but sometimes i just look for excuses to get the welder out.

Pick up some Kroil penetrating oil from Amazon. I’ve tried many different products and have had the best luck with this product. https://smile.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Wait! Don't cut the stub off! First thing to try would be penetrating oil, some heat, and grabbing that stub with a pair of pliers. If you cut it off, you'll lose that opportunity. Wiggle it back and forth. If you can get it to move at all, you're pretty much home free. And you've got another advantage in that it's not a blind hole. You have access to both side. Is there any bolt length sticking out the other side? And what is the base piece made out of? Is it steel or aluminum?

Sorry to see this, but if any consolation we’ve all been there with one bolt or another. File / grind flat with a dreamt if access is tight, mark centre as best as you can. Start with a drill 3 sizes down - ideally a reverse action drill set. This is what I use to good effect ... https://www.drillallsales.com/product-page/left-handed-reverse-action-drill-bits The heat from the drilling and some self penetrating oil, I have found releases the thread and it unscrews itself on the drill bit. But failing that you may get to one size down and use a tap and die set. On the tap I find, the thread usually comes out. Good luck!

Glad to see they are back. I actually didn't do anything. PB had a message on their front page about it but had not thought about it tonight. If it happens again I will re-create the post as I have all of the pictures backed up.

Car next to it was a head on collision with a deer, the shop did not disconnect the battery, after two weeks it decided to catch on fire. Insurance agent, said that this is a common occurrence with deer collisions. I have moved on, insurance treated me right, so please no comments about taking the shop to court...With the funds I received I was able to purchase my 1970 Fairlady Z. Cheers, Kirk

Well, today's drive sucked: