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Today there is a request for hazard switches in the classified forums which leads me to go to the stash and see what I have to help. Pawing through the group, I see plenty of differences. Of course this brings up more questions. We know about the change to the back lit, round pull knob style switch on the North American 240's in 73, and the shorter wires on the 72 switch (6 pin connector wires), but I was surprised by a couple of differences I didn't know about. The marking on the handles vary, and most surprisingly, as does the angle of the switch's bat style handle from one to the next in either position. All of these are the long lead variety, but there are at least three different marking styles. We likely discussed this before. I suspect the center is oldest, (one triangle), the right second oldest, and third, newest. All of the short lead switches I have share the markings of the switch on the left. All fancy and most clearly marked, must make things "better" don't we? But what surprised me the most was the difference in handle angles in the off and on positions, comparing across all three switches. The first pic has them all in the "ON" position, the second "OFF" Well the handles are simply bent you say from repeated use you'd likely say. I say NOT. Look at the thickness of the metal of the handle. It is both thick and oriented so that its rectangular cross section has the most bend resistant width in line with direction of motion. NO WAY you could bend that metal without doing damage to the switch mechanism. All switches click nicely into both on and off positions. Nothing wonky or loose inside. Let the speculation begin!

My guess is that the market has cooled down after some 240 Guild cars reached crazy prices on BaT. Also, my car was not entirely original. It also wasn’t perfect, as I learned. SZR ultimately refunded $2000 due to my unhappiness with their work. So my total pre-tax baseline in the car was $15667.83. The buyer paid over $18,000 when one includes commission. So the car was still well-bought at Mecum after everything. That being said, I learned a lot about my limitations from the experience. And I’m still happy I got to experience the car for 8 months.

There is a special service tool for the chrome mounting nut. See the two holes in the face? The tool in the bottom left corner is a knurled tube with two pins on the end. It fits over the handle and turns the chrome face nut.

Question for the collective... So what was the deal with this car? He bought it at Mecum for 12.5K (plus buyers premium) in April and everyone went nuts for the car saying "He stole it at that price" and he could instantly flip it and make $$thousands$$: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62036-my-mecum-purchase-1972-240z/ He put about $4K into it: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62036-my-mecum-purchase-1972-240z/?do=findComment&comment=577203 And then started trying to sell it in July. Didn't sell for 25.5K: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62553-saturday-houston-auction-of-my-1972-240z/ Didn't sell for 23.9K and didn't sell for 19.9K: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62704-for-sale-1972-datsun-240z-23900-or-best-offer/ And then in the end, it finally sold for 15K plus commission: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63201-auction-for-my-72-240z/?do=findComment&comment=588925 So I've passed on a couple 240's because I wasn't sure I could get my money back and ended up kicking myself a little later because they sold later for a good profit. But then this example comes along and that does not happen. Anyone have any insights as to why? Is it just a fickle market?

I'm thinking our introduction to tranny wrestling occurred at about the same time and on the same vein of cars. Ahhhhhh... the smell of gear oil in your hair. Good times... Good times!

Oh, you were back there with me watching dirt be invented! ?

Gents, in the future please refrain from responding to spammers in the forum and use the "report post" feature. I have tools and methods in the back-end that can usually help me determine if this is a spam bot or a real user. Just assuming this kind of user is a spammer on the front-end doesn't work. He could have been a valid user who was just trying to be friendly. However, in this case, I was 50/50 split on my decision. His profile looked legit but the red-flag was his posts were very general and the email address was questionable. It had nothing to do with our Facebook SSO or other integrations. Remember, I have tools that can help me solve the kinds of issues, so please report posts so I can look into it. Thank you! Mike

I am a purist, when I saw this on BAT I couldn't help but think what this would be like in a Z! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-ferrari-328-engine-9/?fbclid=IwAR0gOl4XkppvFz0D-TVKCxN8DYh67iZDCBVHHFUnD1Dfc-RWjEYdF-km4tE

The 510 I recently picked came with an SR20DET but after opening it up all I could see is money flying away, I let it go cheap and picked up a KA24DE, 5spd trans, ECU and wiring harness for a good price. Pretty grimey but I think it has had an easy life, regular oil changes for sure, the cams are very nice, all the valves, rings and bearings are within spec. Strange thing is 3 cylinders had 175 psi on a cold engine except #3 which was 139 psi, but the rings & piston on #3 were identical to the rest, all good. The exhaust valves guides are pretty sloppy on all cylinders but more so on #3, could worn guides really cause a loss in compression of 36 psi? I can't find anything else that might be the cause. The block is stripped down and ready to go out for cleaning and decking but I can't figure out how to get the chain oiler out, I can't figure out if it is pressed in or screwed in, it looks fairly delicate and I'm afraid it will get damaged if I leave it in, any ideas?

http://datnissparts.com/timing-chain-oiler-jet-nissan-ka24e-ka24de-13081-40f00/ This is the one I used a while ago when replacing the timing set on my KA24E(single cam) D21 pickup. I wrapped a shop rag around the existing one and rolled it slowly side to side with some channel locks until it came out. The new one can be lightly tapped back in place. I'm not sure about all the differences with the KA motors, their interchangeability, applications and such. I know there are little differences here and there for Japanese manufactured blocks vs. Mexican Manufactured ones.

It only got 4 bids. Fall and winter aren't the best times to sell a sports car, either.

That's how you know if they are keepers or not. I had a home made spray booth in my back yard and my first Z in there when I met my wife. She was good with it. So far it's worked out good...25 years Unfortunately I still have a Z in a plastic spray booth...

More great break down pictures, this time from AutoZone. What is unique is the text that describes every part. All of the Nissan parts catalog pages I've seen just show the reference numbers. https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Pick-ups-and-Pathfinder-1970-1988/MANUAL-TRANSMISSION/Transmission/_/P-0900c1528004f739 This page also gives you C type trans pictures and STEP by STEP instructions for break down and re-assembly.

Ahhhhh, the smell of gear oil in my bedroom. Many good first time mechanical stories. Another one being refreshing my first S30 trans on a 4' x 8' piece of plywood in my apartment bedroom. It was successful but my girlfriend (short lived) didn't appreciate the aroma that remained for about a month.

I think that comment is simply a reflection of the available ranges for current measurement. Those reviews look to me like they were written by "electricians" who spend their days working on 120-240 AC circuits. House wiring and appliances. They are making a distinction between that type of work, and the "electronics tech" sitting at his workbench troubleshooting a radio. They're implying that the guy working on radios might need something better for measuring low currents in the milliamp or microamp range. My thought is that even though there are some "really small current" devices on the Z cars, I don't think most people would need a meter to mess with them. Things like fixing a radio, or the clock. And that other stuff about spurious "ghost" voltages and stuff? Scares me more than it seems like a feature. Best I can tell is they're saying that "ghost voltages" are sources of voltages that have a high source impedance. Goes like this... Your normal voltmeter draws very little current in order to make it's measurement. In fact, the lower the better. You want to draw very little current, because any current you draw with meter will affect the reading. But they're saying that in "electrician" work, you can run into the situation where you might read a voltage on something (their video measured 4V between H and G on a power strip), but they're saying that if you switch over to their "LoZ" range, it will show you zero volts. The implication is that when you apply a load to that voltage, it drags it down to zero because the source impedance is so high. Frankly, I'd want to know where the high impedance bleed over is in my circuit that is allowing me to read 4V where I should be reading 0. What's the threshold for ground fault interrupters anyway? The 117 also has a non-contact voltage alert range, but I'm sure you've already got a pocket sized non-contact indicator you've been using for years and already trust. I'd just stick with that. Personally, I'd always measure it before I go sticking my hand in there, regardless of what a non-contact indicator says. My bottom line? I don't think there's anything on the 117 that you would need over the 115 unless you want to toss out your old non-contact indicator and want to start taking the 117 to the job site.

I use New Hampshire undercoating for my truck. Basically the same idea. Good video.

I don't really do any circuit board work. Right now I don't see it in my future. I think that is what they are referring to

Dimensional placements can be taken from the FSM, Section BF-1, Figure #BF-3, 'Standard Body Dimensions'. The version shown below comes from the 1970 FSM...

You can buy them new pretty cheap

Wrestling trannys always brings back the memory of my first clutch job on a friends car. We made multiple attempts to stuff a cast iron 4-speed into an early Mustang. After about four or five muscle searing tries, we discovered the parts store had sold us the wrong disc. From that point on I always slid the disc onto input shaft and made sure there was no binding of any sort.

No, I have several already. I let Jim A. know first but he is set; so I posted here. I'm looking for a NOS 140psi sender for Kats so if any one else is looking for early parts let me know. I hunt often and have a bit of luck. I'm looking for a 10 Bar Oil pressure gauge.

Thanks for the quality check! Cleaned that up this AM. Interesting, as an engineer, I had to go back and determine why that area wasn't covered as I typically have the whole area taped off. Turns out, I usually use the 2" wide masking tape when taping off these areas. Turns out that my 2" wide tape roll was just about gone and getting a little old so it was difficult to work with. So, I used the new 1" wide tape roll for the masking. Obviously did not get good enough coverage. Also, multiple layers of the 1" tape over cavities does not stick well. So, bottom line is I need to go out and get a new roll of 2" tape. Got it from California-Datsun.com on e-bay for $35.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-True-Blue-Green-Original-Color-OEM-Engine-Block-Paint-Can/153656468818?hash=item23c6a3a552:g:HWAAAMXQDjhQ5cP1 Also, for the taillight panel I use the Ford shadow gray with and Matte clear overcoat. That usually works pretty well. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-BFM0360-Dark-Shadow-Gray-Ford-Exact-match-Automotive-Paint/48341749

I would love love love to get my hands on that car! I saw it for sale a while ago in GooNet, I believe it was hidden under a rickety shed/garage with a tarp/cover over it.. It looks to have some rust issues, but like you say very very original and would make an excellent patina project. Although Kats I think you want your cars to be of a certain standard so it may be hard to resist re-painting it. I have the same dilemma with my white 71 240z.. which I was just working on. I polished it up nicely, but the paint has many flaws in it. And I am not sure I can resist repainting / restoring the car long term.. it would be a very easy restoration compared with my Safari Gold car and 907 Green early 240z. https://photos.app.goo.gl/H6R4Z7uJ8CHz8LeB8

Hi Gavin , safari gold is rare I think too . They are not Auction but currently three Z432 are available here , https://www.carsensor.net/usedcar/search.php?CARC=NI_S026&AL=1&SORT=4&STID=SMPH0001 Two white ( one of them 1969 made ) , one orange. And this green car was for sale 16,500,000 Yen at カーセンサー recently. Some weeks ago it was dropped so someone bought I think . The car is a survivor, very original car . I even may want it to be as it is to enjoy its patina look . This car can be drivable easily. Kats