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DEAL.....You lucky SOB......I hate you!!!!! But....I bought a perfect 71 gas tank today for $50.00 .....just like new inside! Also got an F54/ P79 engine for $150.00.

it's actually a pretty straightforward job, costs less than dinner at a nice restaurant, no huge skills needed and rather satisfying when done. the bonus is it forces you to adjust your valves - always a good thing to do on an older motor... i think it's around an hour or so to do the whole thing and the valve guide seals are cheap. the only things that could cause you drama are: dropping something into the hole of doom (cam chain area) so be sure to stuff it w/rags as soon as you take off the valve cover and you'll be fine. loosing a valve keeper - they can fly when they break loose, so do it in your shop vs. out in the gravel driveway (don't ask me how i know this) also see bullet #1 for flying valve keepers damaging the valve cover gasket - should be able to re-use, but if the cover's not been pulled in a long time they can stick and tear, but they're pretty cheap anyway. that's really all there is to it for "danger/warnings" otherwise i wouldn't shy away from it at all if you want a fun little saturday afternoon project.

I'm sort of with Zed on this one. If it ain't broke; don't break it. I would run the heavier weight oil and save up for parts. That is unless there is some risk of being ticketed for some kind of violation. Otherwise I would just run it.

I think @rossiz bought one and he lives in Seattle. Maybe he'll see this and possibly rent it to you or see this and tell me to shut the hell up.

I have the tool (KD-3087) siteunseen showed and I have used both rope and rubber hose to hold the valves closed. I like rope better as it doesn't have as much give as the rubber hose. The valves will stay completely closed with the rope. That said, the tool went out of production quite a few years ago, but you can probably find a used one. It works okay with stock valve springs, but I found that performance springs and retainers make it difficult to use. The tool doesn't fit well on the springs close to the towers and stiffer springs cause the tool to flex and slip off the valve retainers.

Seems like asking for problems. One mistake and your small project turns in to a big one. Plus time spent on the valve seals is time that could be spent on the engine you really want. Nothing wrong with using higher weight oil on a worn engine.

that's the tool i have - pretty cheap for the amount of use i got out of it (did several heads, including replacing valve stem seals for other folks). it works well enough, a little tricky on the ends where there is tight clearance at the cam towers. +1 on the vinyl tubing - i think it was 1/4" or so, you just need to push up the valve so it doesn't fall down when keepers are removed.

You can also use vinyl tubing instead of cotton rope to keep the valve seated.

I have never understood that!!! I don't want to trade. Just sell for cash and buy what you want. Just never made sense to me

I got the 5 speed close ratio transmission case vapor blasted. Took forever, like most of a day. Looks good though

Hi Geoff. Glad to hear the SUs are doing well. A fluctuation in RPMs, at steady throttle, is a sign of a lean mixture. Based on the lean condition theory, I'm assuming one could see the pistons rising and falling a bit during the fluctuation. Have you ever taken a look at the pistons when it's idling? What weight oil are you using?

I was messing around with one of those tools, you need to stuff the cylinder with rope to hold the valve up. FYI I tried compressed air and it keep breaking the seal when I tried to depress the spring. I tried rapping on the top of the valve to jar it loose, but no joy. There is a good video out on you tube of a guy using the tool and the rope trick.

Yes indeed! Basically it was a combination of valve lashing and the oil pump install instruction diagram in the FSM not telling you which direction is the front of the engine. I installed the oil pump mostly correctly, but I was one tooth off, and that threw the timing out of wack.

Maybe the best course of action is to take the head to the machine shop if the price is right? I'll look into it for sure. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

@NA&CH send me your address I’ll mail you a Ztlherapy CD.

is it idling OK now? Going back to the beginning, it seems to me that this was the sequence, right: 1. car was all working fine, 2. you took carbs off to fit new exhaust 3. You fitted the exhaust and put the carbs back on 4. The car ran poorly 5. You fiddled with float levels, mixture screws and more 5. Eventually discovered that the carb linkage was not set right and front carb wasn't opening at all below 2k I personally think it's unlikely that you simultaneously developed problems with fuel supply or ignition. Fwiw that 2 psi fuel pressure is fine. I think all you've got to do is really balance the carbs properly (you don't need Ztherapy for this) and make sure those float levels and mixture settings are right. Colourtune is a great tool to help with the mixture. Eventually you will need a decent heat shield between that zstory manifold and the carbs. Without it the fuel in the float chambers will boil.

The good news is, that is a bridge line between the flex hose & the wheel cylinder. If the existing line can't be repaired satisfactorily, it is replaceable. As Wayne has eluded to, a good quality flare wrench is important to have.

Some peoples perception is that they can get more in value with the trade as opposed to hard cash. This particular trade was definitely the exception to that rule though.

Now that's the real deal!

Agreed - I am very thankful. I was hesitant to spend the cash but my buddy Tom called me and said “...check these out...you need these to fix the 70, and you are crazy if you don’t buy em...you just don’t see them ...”

I’d say at today’s market you did alright- ESPECIALLY delivered . They look super clean- congrats

Sounds like you might have split the line. If it "shoots" out. There are actually two surfaces, one between the nut and the back of the flare and the other between the inside of the flare and the cone inside the hole. The inner surface is where the sealing happens, the nut presses the flare on to the cone. Take it off and look closely. The nut will slide back allowing you to see the flare on the end of the line. Here's an example. Click through the pictures and you'll see the cone also. http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare

One thing I have learned - I found a Snap-On dealer stopped at a local garage. He has what you need. 10/12mm flare nut wrench. Best investment you will make dealing with these connections. Not sure what they are priced at now, but it was a hard bite at $12 for a single wrench when I bought mine. Has paid for itself many times over by NOT rounding off the nut on countless brake lines....

Never use Crescent wrenches! I think they were just invented as gifts for Fathers Day. If possible, break the nut with a socket wrench first before using an open ended.

Theses are the two booster decals I have made. The bottom decal is for 1969-70 cars, and the top one is for 1971 thru 1973 cars, I believe. What is your vin # or year? Do you know which one was on your car originally? Theses decals are pretty much flawless in reproduction accuracy.

It would mean more with a video of the engine running... Or at least tell us what happened. You never said. Saga incomplete.

Got side tracked on the sorting. Had the cabinet for the Series 1 seek radio plated stopped and put it back together and boxed it up. Now back to sorting.

Or my Dad's favorite black pepper. Me and Zed's plus some salt and you'd have a Contnetinal Breakfast. Fill your radiator with bloody mary mix, windshield washer tank with vodka and you welcome at my house anytime. Cook some ribeyes on the manifold... Party over heaaaar!

Red Line fluid for the transmission and the rear differential would be my recommendation. Be sure the differential fill plug will come loose before draining. Good tutorial... http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html Thanks Phillip, @240260280z