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Got it out in the sunshine for awhile. Wore the flat spots out of the tires.

Hi Mike , we will meet soon , I have been to Fuji Speedway last week to see a racing Z432 for some laps for setting and testing . Here is an old picture of PS30-00013 at Fuji Speedway back of the paddock might be shoot in late 1969 or early 1970 , and a picture of my Z432 in 2019 ! And a movie . Kats

Thanks to Mark's and ConverTT for the original idea, I too am doing an EFI conversion to 510. I just completed my proto type bracket for the COP's and want to share a couple of hard won (trial and error) dimensions that may help ConverTT with his fabrication I made a simple bracket with a single bend in 1/8" aluminum plate. It is 14 x 5.5 inches wide, with the bend at 3.25", with an included bend angle of 126.6 deg. I drilled 1.5" holes for the COP base, and 11/32 holes for the mounting bolts (M8). I had to drill out the holes in each COP to 5/16 (or 8mm) as they would not quite pass a regular M8 bolt. On an L4, the plugs are not evenly spaced all along. 1-2 is 4", 2-3 is 3.625", and then 3-4 is again 4". Interesting that these measurements are not metric. They are 4", not 100mm. The center of COP 1.5" hole to it's 5/16 mounting hole is 1.25". I shaped the tabs that fit over the two valve cover bolts to fit the shape of the cove in the valve cover of course. The two holes are 3/8" from the edge. Some shapely-ness has been added to the bracket to make it both pretty and functional. More to follow. Powder coating when complete. I replaced the two valve cover bolts with studs to minimize the wear on the threads in the head with the many test fit cycles. When you tighten down the mounting bolts for each COP, it pulls the coil boot tightly down over the plug to the fully seated position. The bracket does not move in any way. It is very sturdy as is. I was tempted to make the bracket in two pieces so that you undo a couple of bolts along the seam and the two valve cover bolts to get the valve cover off for service, rather than having to undo all the COP's and wiring as well. We'll see how I feel the next few times I do a valve adjusts. I got very lucky as my press break can take a max of 14" wide stock, and that turned out to be exactly the width of the aluminum plate. Horse shoes for sure. Ah one more detail. You would think that base of the COP that sits flat on the plate would be, well, flat. Nope. The mounting tab that sticks out to the side that has the 8mm hole has a slight upward angle, may 2 degrees. A person with OCD would make a wedge shaped washer to go in there...

PM Hung Vu on FB this past Monday, he replied back that if all goes well the 280Z dashes should be ready to ship in 2 to 3 weeks.

Thanks for sharing you knowledge Carl! Small World Again. Here is the stroy: Back in the 70's I road raced a Datsun 240Z. I had a set of magnesium American Racing LeMans Wheels. Strong and very light. The BRE teams ran these wheels when dominating CP class in Datsun 240Z's. Logan Blackburn was one of those famed drivers back in the day and my instructor at my first driving school. See Picture of yellow wheels on his yellow car below. I had been on a quest to pick up a set of those very rare magnesium AR LeMans wheels. I recently found a set in Georgia. I was told that they were from Logan Blackburn's cars. I thought maybe. I am in the process of restoring the wheels, when I removed the valve steams it was confirmed by the yellow that these are indeed a set of Logan Blackburn's wheels. Full Circle! How Cool is this!

Haha! Nice pic. I'm guessing it's Bigfoot. Maybe Bigfoot wearing a button down shirt because he's going out to a nice place for dinner with Ms. Bigfoot?

More than just a brand new 1973 Z, I'm counting on it being my Fountain of Youth. It will make me 24 years old again! (No pressure, Motorman...:-)

I don’t know if it’s brave or crazy. I have nothing to loose since the roof was toast. A good buddy has donated a roof for the cause . It’s not as terrible as one might think, but not something to take lightly. if the roof doesn’t get fixed - it’s a parts car This has been a tough decision . If the rest of the car was rusted badly I wouldn’t bother , but it’s a very solid 70

So Frankenstein found his car's fraternal twin. Dizygotic! (Found that when I Googled to be sure).

You are a now a knight of the Z table and your name going forth shall be "Brave Mark Maras"

The first 280s and the last 260s were both built simultaneously during the last 3 months of 1974. This makes a 12/74 260 2+2 automatic the rarest, and one might argue the least desirable, of the first generation, 1970-1978, Z cars!

As I recall it took three to four months for the patina to turn light gray, and another three to four to get dark Gray. That was before I started using the Gibbs Gun Oil, I believe that using it they will gray out faster. Keeping the centers uniform is a snap - just coat them with the Gibbs. It is keeping the outer lips shinny that is the PIA - they dull out if not polished every 4 months. Also you don't want to get any water on them as they water spot easily. Some guys used WD-40 on the lips after they were polished, to help avoid water spots. In my garage here in Florida - the aluminum Libre's will stay bright and shinny for a year, where the Le Mans will look dull within 3 to 4 months and utterly flat in 5 months.

It looked originally like the centers were painted - Yes/No? ... are you going to let them age to the dark gray, rather than paint them again? Looks like you bead blasted them...if so it will take a lot of very fine wet sanding, then a lot of polishing to get the rim lips gleaming again. Have Gibbs Gun Oil on hand? How about NuVite's NuShine IIC, NuShine IIA and NuShine IIS - absolutely the BEST for Mags's. 1/4lb jar is $25.00 and worth every penny.. C, A and S are progressively finer ... https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Default.asp

No clue how I managed to get a duplicate post after an edit of the original. Sorry

What a great sounding symphony!!! Beautiful car too.

Always nice to have confirmation!

Logan Blackburn's Datsun 240Z with which he won the SCCA C-Production National Championship 1977, was the BRE #3 C-Production Z. Glad to hear you were able to find a set.

I would consider trying to vary the splice location between the different layers at each corner. It would make the repair stronger. Also be sure and preserve the original leaded joint locations. The chassis needs these flex areas to survive

I’ve been looking for that battery fuse link. They’ve move it from Latest and Greatest to the Wiring section. https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s this? A teaser pic from ConverTT??

Heading out for the night, so for the moment, just explanatory text, to try and keep it as uncomplicated as possible, for as many technical levels of customers as possible: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12h01e/12-4334 If we do another diagram of sorts, I think an image would leave the least chance of confusion about angle of view, etc. Thoughts welcomed.

Looking forward to getting your impression once you get the zed on the road. In the meantime you’re keeping me and many others entertained!

you also should make sure all the heat shielding is in place, will help a lot with the splitting.

Yes, that one. It's not obvious visually, but it has easy access to it. It lives in a high heat area and can often turn hard and split like your valve cover hose did.

ah yes suspension you will get a lot of advice there. Your biggest decision will be stock or modify. I find stock very satisfactory as I am more of a driver vs a racer. in the stock configuration the ride is pretty rough, its a very connected to the road kind of car. Making it stiffer for "performance" would be unbearable to my old bones. I never hear anyone mention a smoother ride with suspension upgrades. AC is some fun stuff, its a very very simple system, works marginally well (not great but much better than the old 240z pull thru evap). you got to decide if you want to stick with R12 or 134a, The only real upgrade you could do is maybe a PF condenser. brand new evaps are available but expensive. The biggest complaint seems to be the volume of air flow in really hot climates. here in the sub tropics middle of summer (95f 80%humidity) can really require more than the system can handle, at best you will not sweat in the car. In LA you should be ok with the lower humidity. Looking forward to some threads on these topics once you get the current problem worked out.

here's some good glue blob shots also. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Check your glue blobs. If you have a meter, measuring resistance of the coolant temperature sensor is easy to do also. Working on the EFI system is really just taking measurements and comparing them to a check list. Measure-check-measure-check.... If you get a bad measurement, you find the cause and fix it. When all of the measurements are in-spec. if the problem still persists then you go to the weird stuff. Often-times people adjust things to out of spec. trying to fix other out of spec. things. Forgot the glue blobs picture. Post #29.

Targa time!

For Kyoto, I can heartily recommend the MK Taxis tour service: https://www.mktaxi-japan.com/ I've been to Kyoto many times, but a few years ago a friend sent a group of four of us on a day-long tour with an MK driver (waiting patiently for us while we explored each venue, and while we had lunch/tea breaks) and it was certainly the best way to cover a whole lot of bases without rushing. It might sound cheesy, and normally I'd prefer to make my own way around, but our driver knew just how to handle it and made it a great day. Best day I've had in Kyoto, and my Japanese in-laws agreed. I would recommend a boat ride on the Hozugawa river too. If the timing is right you might even be able to see the Geiko entertaining their guests on the Gion tea house balconies, which you can't see from the street side...

Mount Akina! Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

High compression engine...fuel could cause the problem, carburation could cause the problem, hot spots could cause the problem, but I would look at the timing. Run-on is more often a timing problem, especially if the fuel is low octane for the high compression. Check your spark plugs also. They may be too hot?

I agree with ZH. Probably carbon and residual unburned fuel that is causing the run on. It could be a rich mixture (carbon in the cyls.) that is the root of this problem. What do the plugs (color) look like? I can't see why DCOEs would be any different than SUs if both are properly tuned.

That is what I am looking for. The Audi is a comfortable GT car, but new cars have no soul. Old cars are so much more involving. I am actually pretty impressed with those numbers. It would be a good test to drag race the Audi and the 680 to see. Are those 280Z figures from the standard car? If that is the case, it would probably sway in favour of the Z, as my car should be lighter and more powerful than a stock 280z.

Just about ready for color

Rims and Grill arrived today. The rims will need to be restored, can't wait to get started. They are 14x7. Looking at tire size combinations front and rear.

got the sparkler working

This is another interesting NOS part that I recently acquired. Electric Fuel Pump upgrade.

I had a set with my race car years ago and cannot remember where they got to. I have been looking for a set for a while now and will say that I "paid up" for this set. They do seem to be in good shape and reportedly, not that it matters, were from a combination of the BRE cars and Logan Blackburn's car. Logan was my instructor at my first driving school at IRP, which if these are some of his brings this full circle.