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Isn't THAT the truth! You-know, I have two toolboxes and a whole slew of service tools. Lord knows what I'm going to do with all that. Some time ago, Kats was looking for a particular service tool and I took mine down to a machine shop and had copies made. I deserve a 12-step program!

Wrapping up the passenger side patch .... g e

I get all my plating done locally - lucky to not have to deal with shipping. My philosophy is that the results will be no better than the prep so everything is thoroughly stripped of paint, rust, scale, grease, ...etc. prior to delivery. Get rid of scratches and rough edges. Yes... small bits can and will get lost so I secure those pieces per the pics below - problem solved! Anything with a spring, including spring steel, will need a bake cycle to drive out nitrogen (?) molecules. if not done, the piece will break.

I could not help myself, Kats. My finger was possessed and clicked the buy-it-now button despite my strongest will!

Hi Carl , yes we have salts everywhere in Japan !! Especially on highway entrance with slope . When I was a kid , yes cars put tires with spikes ,and whem I was a teenager , the government stopped using the tire with spikes due to the pollution of dust from the road . Recently, Nissan dealer servicemen did a nice job for my Z432. That is a clear coat for underneath of the car .I am so satisfied with it , it turned out very natural appearance, not glossy, it is very hard to tell the car had the coat. I hate salts ! Kats

Hi @Zup, I'll see if I can change it. The image is automatically loaded so I'm not sure if I can change it. I'll look around in the admin functions to see if it's possible. Mike

So I got the inner wing stripped and ready to weld in the passenger rail .... The battery area is bad, but not as bad as I initially thought.... This braised in patch has to go .... = Started forming a patch ....

Definitely try to press or tap it out. Maybe you'll get lucky and have it come loose pretty easy. I've made my mounts out of aluminum. Stainless would certainly be stronger and would probably hold a polish longer, but the aluminum is so much easier to work with and it polishes up nice enough for me. Here's an aluminum part before polishing. Stock plastic on top and my version on the bottom with surfaces as machined: And here's a part after a little polishing. As good if not better than the original:

The cereal box cardboard doesn't break down in oil. I've never had one fail and I've made quite a few gaskets over the years.

Hmmmm I think some 1969 photoshop is going on. The red and silver cars seem to have the exact same shadows and camera angle. Here is a photo of both overlaid. Exact fits! Just a turned wheel.

For you guys having parts plated... Are you shipping them, or is it always a personal drop-off ordeal? I'm thinking... If you ship them boxes of parts, then maybe I could do the same. But if you are dropping them off in person, then I would have to be in the same location as you. I would like to have some parts plated, but I don't even know where to start. Looking to the collective for ideas.

I run 20 weight.

We know you for the NOS partZ-junkie that you are! A 12-step program will not be successful.

That guy is bob sharp.

Jim , nice tools !! Chris , hope you get the set of tools, fantastic! Kats

Yes, industrial platers!!! Have dealt with this breed for more than 35 years and no matter who you're dealing with the story never changes. First it's important to understand the difference between industrial platers and chrome platers. I've never found a shop that does both. They , chrome platers, at least those with any kind of good reputation, know that they must produce a first class product without excuses. I have never had to reject a chrome job. You're right, I've paid the price one has to pay for peace of mind but consider it the price of admission. On the other hand industrial platers will almost always lose a few of your smaller parts/fasteners, do a less, sometimes a lot less, than concourse job on 10-15% of your parts and then shrug their shoulders while sticking their hand out for payment. No, this is not just one shop, THEY ALL DO THIS! I've run out of time this evening but I'll try to get back tomorrow with what you can, no must, do to reduce your chance of heart break. Cheers

Chunks of rubber that have deteriorated and come off the inside of the fuel line? Rusty dust from inside the fuel rail? Pieces of the fuel pump diaphragm? Small rocks? To be honest, I was running a quality paper filter on the passenger side of the engine compartment and no filters in the carbs. I could sleep at night. At this point for me, it's just the challenge to get something that fits and works that has me spending cycles on it.

But isn't the fuel going through at least one fine paper filter before it ever gets to the flat tops? What is that screen actually catching?

No, they are logic level coils. No problems with driving the signal from the Haltech. They are wired hot from the ignition source and then triggered with a ground pulse. Multiple levels of control in dwell time’s etc. I’m very excited to learn all of the features in the Haltech. One example is the control of the A/C switch through Haltech. The engine load will cut off the A/C under WOT and increase idle speed upon A/C coming on etc. Very cool. I have an Idle Air Control valve from a VW Golf too. That is totally controlled through Haltech as well.

The 1/4” also on the vapor tank is gates part# 27002 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I got some at orielly this weekend for a run from the fuel tank to the vapor tank 5/8th gates part#27008 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

"Use adequate ventilation in confined areas"

Just a suggestion, please don't take it the wrong way--- You might condense your questions to one thread on your car project. People are following your efforts and are responding frequently with helpful information. The use of a new topic for each post or question isn't needed. You currently have 4 separate posts on the front page for what is essentially one project. It will be more coherent because people can read previous posts in the thread on your project and develop a more thorough understanding of the issues you face, as many times the issues are related in nature. As in the question above---I don't know from the reading of it which model/year car you are seeking information, and they are/can be different. In a dedicated thread you would only have to say it once. The FSM has clear diagrams and photos. There is an on-line version which can be downloaded from this site. I prefer hardcopy, as I am "old school" and like turning pages and bookmarking. I am saying this only to be helpful---not to scold or admonish.

Kinda like this:

I spent quite some time tuning my 3.1L stroker with SUs and found RH needles to work best (they are leaner than the SB ones). Still, cruise AFR is a little too rich. Ian Hamiltons needle tool is great for doing needle research! The tool can be found here: http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/technical_carb.htm

This looks interesting! I need to fabricate a support for them but, yup, I like it!

Hi Kats: Did they use salt to melt ice on the highways and streets in Japan? Road Salts seem to be the real cause of extensive rust here in the State's. Seems a lot of 240Z's survived in Washington State for example - where they did not use Road Salt - and instead allowed winter tires with ice spikes back in the 60's/70's. Carl B.

Whoever wrote this manual back in the day had a nice understanding of the Z's prospective corrosion spots. There are some places missed, though: lower boxed section at the rear of the front frame rails (behind the T/C rod bracket) underfloor reinforcement rails underside of hatch floor, where the floor meets the rear valence panel inner cavity beneath the rear hatch sill plate full perimeter of the hatch cavity (not just the trailing edge) windshield posts front cowl (esp. along all the seams) In the 1970's, it seems, many of the popular aftermarket rustproofing solutions were flawed by design. Ziebart (a wax-type treatment) was considered the gold standard, but the material apparently dried out and cracked after several years, creating thousands of crevasses and concealed ledges for salt water to lodge in. As a result, the 'rust preventative' became a rust accelerator. IIRC, there was a successful class-action suit and the company went out of business. Another name in the day was 'Bondeco'. They seem to have disappeared, too. Maybe for the same reason (modern wax-type treatments (e.g. WaxOyl) use better formulations and don't seem to suffer from the same problem). Also in the 1970's, old-timers swore by the effectiveness of oil-spraying. Unfortunately, most of the shops that did this were kind of 'rural' and they used old crankcase oil. Not the sort of thing to be spraying onto your brand-new sportscar! We now have RustChek and the like, which use a clean, thin, perfumed oil that does a nice job of creeping into seams. I have a 2006-vintage car that I bought new and had sprayed once shortly after purchase. It's still solid and rust-free (although at least half of the credit for that probably goes to manufacturers' increased use of galvanized sheet metal).

Got a chance to weld up some crossmember brackets. They are 14 ga. y ‘ Also “made” the sway bar braces. Basically 3/4 of a 2.5 x 2.5 x 1/8 square tube....easy peasy ? And test fitting everything .... Should have a completed rail in a few more days!