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wheee!
Free Member13Points4,607Posts -
Captain Obvious
Free Member7Points10,081Posts -
siteunseen
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Jeff Z
Free Member4Points9Posts
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2018 in all areas
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3 pointsNo offense intended zspert. I thought it was a humorous way to acknowledge that you've been a member for 15 years, and that your last two posts (50% of your content at the time of my post) were in 2013. Then you posted two within minutes of each other. In person, it might have been "dude, where have you been?!". Which some people probably would think is rude, if they were present. Humor can be a complex subject. Welcome (back) to the forum. You can probably add a lot, with your experience, if you want to, and can stand an occasional joke. Not all of us have the microfiche. So, if anyone wants to share, feel free.3 points
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3 pointsWait... So I'm supposed to take the heat for all this? Like my post was the spark that started it?3 points
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3 pointsNot quite yet. When my flip phone dies, I'm gonna get a huge phone like this:3 points
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After you spending the time to try to help me out, it was the least I could do! With the number of these cars on the road slowly dwindling, its great to have a forum like this where owners of old Z cars can help each other out. If/when I run into any other challenges and/or fixes, I'll be sure to discuss them here, so that somebody else may benefit. I have had this car for 24 years and plan to keep it until I am too feeble to climb in and out of it, so I am bound to be posting something again someday.2 points
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2 pointsIf Stan Lee was still alive he might have turned Bruce into a super hero with fingers that melded metals and eyes that could see through anything. The Stick Man!
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As it turned out...when I took the Ballast Resistor out, I could see that a stud/post had been sheered off the bottom end (by vibration?) and the nut with it that held on the connecting wire. I simply ran another nut up and down the end of the stud/post to restore the threads, added another nut, secured that wire, reinstalled it and presto - it started and ran fine. Problem solved and after examining the part I received, it looks to be something that should work as a replacement if I ever need it. Thanks to all for the suggestions, especially Steve J. I now have Seafoam fuel additive stabilizer run through the system to keep it from varnishing up through the winter (though I do start it up every few weeks and let it run for a bit).2 points
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2 pointsMe too! This thing is great and it even matches my Z’s interior.
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I took my Z out today to visit a friend's new warehouse. It might be the last night driving day of the year, so I wanted to take advantage of it. As several of us sat around swapping stories, photos and videos, I admired the view in front of me and decided to take a photo.
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1 pointhttps://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/vancouver-rare-1970-datsun-240z-dark/6781563999.html Nice clean car, a few changes as expected. Radio and speakers, some switches and hose clamps, etc. All and all it looks pretty good for $30K (not mine)
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1 pointI just bought a huge phone. It has excellent front and rear cameras as well as video. I have no pictures of my family and friends for prosperity but that changes now so get ready! samsung galaxy j7. I presently have a Samsung 3G that works great but the battery needs charging twice a day. @Captain Obvious you're next! Flip phones are like sling shots.1 point
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1 pointYES!!! You are so right. I'm trying to do better but it's hard. My humor is as dry as a weeks worth of whoring.1 point
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1 pointIt is REALLY disappointing that some members choose a negative approach to replying to members. Do I KNOW or have met @zspert ? No, But do I have a suspicion he DOES know what he is talking about.1 point
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1 pointDoor, hatch and horn parts are back from zinc. Also tons of nuts and screws. Zinc day is always the best.
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1 pointWhile the cooling fan can be seen on the microfiche parts film I have yet to see one in almost 50 years as a Datsun/Nissan mechanic.1 point
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1 pointThe topclassics ad says Corvallis, OR. Quite a ways from Vancouver, WA. Odd that he advertises on the Seattle CL for a Vancouver car. Seems like that car would have made it to the Canby show at least once. VIN 6582. Edit - wait...the topclassics ad shows a different VIN. Not sure what's going on here. Scam or different but identical cars. Second edit - the topclassic ad shows the 6582 VIN in a picture but reports another. Maybe it's one of those VIN hybrid cars. Run away!.... Trim: Stock Year: 1970 Mileage: 249000 VIN: HLS30035431 point
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1 pointWell this explains more about the engine and rear end statements in the Cl ad. Some swapped out drivetrain parts. I suppose now that if it's been around for a while and has not sold, it might have some more unmentioned issues. The pics in the Cl ad look better than the other sites pictures, IMHO.1 point
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1 pointJust finished reading "Road to Modena" which I got for Christmas. Recommend it. Pete Brock writes with interesting detail the process of design and body building the Italian way versus the traditional methods used at the time. He also writes about his relationship with Caroll Shelby and the Shelby organization during the mid-60s. Much discussion about the Cobra Coupes and the very beginnings of aerodynamic considerations in automotive design.1 point
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1 point1 point1 pointI haven't used shell rotella. I've been using Valvoline's VR1 10W30 conventional oil. As far as I can tell, the high Zinc responds to pressure in the engine, therefore being most effective at the places where pressure is at the greatest. I only occasionally beat the car, normally shift at 3k rpm, and mix freeway /city driving. Maybe add 1/4 of a quart every 3k miles. Original rings(as far as I can tell), valve seals about 2 years old now. I'll never claim to truly understand from a chemistry perspective how it works, but all my research leads me to believe it's good. But thats not to say shell rotella, or even just plain old O'Reilly's dinosaur oil are just fine. People seem to have high opinions of the high detergent rotella oils. I'd like to know how it goes if you try it. I've still got years of service left in the engine in the car now, with a backup built on deck. I'm always wishing I had the means to test the oils on my own. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk1 point1 point, I'm young guy here and I'm also afraid of EMPs. One of the reasons I want a Z! Sent from my OP 3T using Classic Zcar Club mobile1 point1 pointReally appreciate all the input. I think I'll just perform the basic pin/ohm checks and if all checks out install and see what happens. Again thanks1 point1 pointGood choice, Samsung makes a good phone. New opportunities to suck away your free time await!1 point1 pointThanks but Jim has me covered. I will need to drill the E88 for the N42 manifold and port the injection slots into the head too. The head has been performance built already and seems a shame to waste it and start fresh on the P90 I have sitting on the shelf. I can always run the E88 with carbs again in the future.1 point1 pointA little work on the intake porting today... The porting is actually right on. The slight bright ring in the “down the throat” shot is reflection off the bevel into the intake.
1 pointHS30-00034 It was given UK road registration (license plate) 'UAR 603J' and eventually embarked on a career as a race car in the 'Post Historic Road Sports Championship' during the early 1980s with owner/driver Ian Pearce, and later in the HSCC's (largely stock) Roadsports Championship in the hands of ex-BMC works driver Peter Riley and his son Tim. Tim Riley undertook a major rebuild/update in the late 1990s/Millenium period, with more extreme modifications for different racing classes. In mid to late 2002 the car had a big accident and required yet another build, but the comprehensive roll cage protected the 'shell and it was saved after being pulled straight on a jig. I supplied some of the panels. I'm not sure where the car is now. I heard that Tim took it with him to New Zealand some years ago.1 point1 point1 point1 pointMy pleasure. I can tell you where to find those connections, but I still can't tell you why they're there. Haha! If I had to guess, I would dovetail off something that Chas mentioned... I suspect those connections are some sort of precursor to the valve cover mounted injector cooling fan assy.1 point1 pointI have wondered about this sub harness option as well. Those same wires are in my harness too. I thought it might be for the AC, but my Californian car has AC and no optional cooling fan. Could it have been an option for the cars sold with the tow bar? Or maybe the developers thought the N47 heads would have heat problems in certain areas with lead free fuel and exhaust liners generating more heat? I am yet to see one or even a photo of one. A while back, I toyed with the idea of running a 280ZX fuel injector cooling fan from this circuit and using a delayed shutoff relay. I have the fan, but it's way down on my to do list.1 point1 point1 pointA guy with a youtube channel about cars contacted me awhile ago about shooting my car for an episode. Got the result a couple of days ago. He has added subtitles in english but he misses a couple of things in translation so don’t take it to serious, i have told him so hopefully he will correct them.1 point1 point1 pointThough I do wonder, that seems like a mighty big amount of work... Why not just get another hatch? Are they that hard to find?1 point
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