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coming soon.....stay tuned. I will be updating the webstore with the current items that i have in stock. I also have a few new items.

Once again getti ng restoration parts ready for zinc plating. Sorting yellow, clear (silver), and black zinc parts for future projects. Every piece media blasted and hand wire brushed.

AU market 240z's never had it, we got the "early style" airbox for all years 70-73. 73 AU market engine bay here. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/gallery/image/6314-no-caption/ You can tell it's a 73 because of the choke cable bracket on the far right and the throttle linkage in the middle of later SU's has an extra safety bracket. See more images of car here. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/profile/101180-specialp3/?tab=node_gallery_gallery We didn't get the airpump and all that gear until 1974 with the introduction of the 260z in Australia and flat top carbs etc..We got round tops all the way until the 240z finishes in 1973.

And since the new owner is a member here, make sure they understand that the long standing typical behavior of bashing the previous owner simply will not be tolerated in this case. I got your back!

My wonderful friends, I know I've been a stranger these past few years as my partner and I have had way too much of "life getting in the way." My poor 280 has mostly just sat. She still runs great, but there are a number of little things I should have done that I haven't. Well, I have bitter-sweet news. A young man drove down from Northern Virginia today to buy my baby. Now someone will again pay her the attention she deserves. When I bought her, her body was in pretty good shape, and she was mechanically so-so. Now she's in great shape mechanically, but she needs some body work to address a few little rust issues. That will be the new owner's project. (Maybe Lenny will also release the new Hellfire ECU to free the tiger in all our engines. Nudge, nudge...) Anyway, everyone here has been such a good friend. I thank all of you for all the help, advice, and comradery you have given me, and I hope you will extend the same helping hand to the newest member of the Z family. (He's already a ClassicZCars member, and you will probably hear more from him soon.) Here's hoping you all enjoy the ride! Sarah (a.k.a. FastWoman)

It's not too late.

That was about 3 years ago, a photo from when I was selling it. The OE white had turned to more of a butterscotch color. There was a few small places under the console close to the radio that didn't get the newer look. Yep that's the original dash but it had two cracks up top that had been filled with a low sheen silicone type caulk. Looked pretty good too. I wish like hell I still had that car. The prices have gone up so much since I sold it for $6,000 I could get $12,000 at least today. 3 car garage with all Zs in there. My daily car baked in the sun outside. I went to church one Father's Day soaked with sweat. I swore then one had to go! Looking back I would have been better off adding on to my garage.

Amazing that you've only ever driven your car a couple of times in wet, or icy weather. I would never get out of the house eight months of the year, if that was the case with my daily driver! Garages constructed of masonry can allow dampness and condensation to form on, and subsequently harm, metal surfaces, even plated finishes. I keep my car in a "Carcoon" air chamber literally all the time (as it's not been on the road since 2002), which protects from condensation, moisture and sudden temperature changes. As to the color specifications, there are a couple of ways I would go about ensuring the finish on the brake and fuel lines is replicated. The first way would be to take a brake line off your car and get it color-matched, by making up an aerosol spray at a local auto shop, or DIY store. The second way would be to get a hard brake line part number from the L-Drive parts fiche, see if the item is still available, new, then use that as a basis to obtain the exact color-match. I do have a couple of NOS horns that have the olive green finish applied to them, but the photograph (attached) may not be entirely representative of the true color, unfortunately, as it was taken under a fluorescent light. I have taken a picture of the olive green-finished horn next to a NOS brake line, as a comparison. There does appear to be a little color variance but, as I mentioned in my post above, that is to be expected.

I had this same type of problem on a lawnmower. I think the hose delaminated because I had been using starter fluid to start the mower and overspray got on the hose, swelling it. Still, same effect. It would start but lean out and die after a few minutes. Not obvious by eye. Don't forget that the inlet side of the pump is under suction.

I have heard of them, and their products are top notch. I have his rack conversion going on my dime this winter. Byebye 37 ball joints and that 100lb steering box.

That was my back up plan but I figured I’d give someone on here first shot at them.

Sarah, Keep in mind that if you decide to get back into the Z world, the door is open, and there is a place for you at the table. Between you, @Arne, and @sblake01 (to name just a few), it's always sad to hear about a good contributor to the forum moving away from Z cars. While we know you guys still visit, it's not as much fun as when you were hanging out here all of the time.

Last weekend I repainted the fender. It's not perfect, but of course, it ended up getting probably the best paint job of all the panels. Before re-prepping it, I spent probably 10-15 minutes trying to sand through the original paint with 1500 and didn't. Even after hitting it with 320 there was still blue, so I figured the likelihood of sanding through on the other panels was minimal and I may as well go for it. I got the hood and doors to 3000. Also, I learned that I hate wet sanding. Still, I'm going to re-do the rear quarters and pillars, and may put some more time into the roof. Today was satisfying: for the first time in a year, parts are going back on. The masking is gone and the doors aren't in the living room any more. They need to be compounded and polished, but I'll do that at the end.

I have studied “ carburetor icing “ when I was a pilot trainee flying Beach Bonanza A36 then Baron B58 . Icing condition is more familiar with me for the wing icing. The interpreter is great but weird sometimes. It is like my writing in English here , sorry ?

Kats. We have provinces in Canada, not states. And there is no flapper on the larger 73 air box.

Good luck Fast Sarah. You know that it's okay to come back and share some knowledge even if you don't have a Z...

We had a first Gen Miata at one point. It was like a gokart. Exit ramps at 60 mph, no problem. I will keep an eye out for that Red NA!

You should also do some downhill gear down braking. That will suck the rings against the cylinder walls.

That's pretty consistent so that is good, the numbers themelves are a bit low but that maybe because the engine cooled off or probably the engine just needs a good run at highway speeds to loosen everything up. The rings may be gummed up from sitting so long.

You will be missed, when hunting through the archives to solve a problem you gave me lots help. Signed your archive groupie

When it's time for resale pull the wrap off and have brand new paint.

Ok we have another episode of "Ugly Welds" So I was looking at the drivers side of the hood and it wasn't right either. So I broke out the welder again, but I ground the primer back further so I wouldn't have to blow the flames out after each weld. A little welding Then some grinding with a 2" Roloc and then some flat file hand work. I actually made a second pass on this side to weld up some of the voids Looks ok now. I ran a coat of fiberglass to seal any pin holes and shape it up. On a different note, I need some feedback from you guys. I was blocking the rocker panels and there is a pretty straight groove near the bottom of the rocker. Is it supposed to be there? It is on both sides and pretty consistent. So I don't know if it's factory or if somehow the car got damaged exactly the same way on both sides. Which seems kind of odd, but maybe. In the second picture, it's the upper shadow line. It's maybe 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom edge of the rocker where it turns under the car. They appear to run the full length of the rockers. Here is the tip of the day. I use Evercoat fillers. They cost a little more but they sand nice and work easily. Sometime thought the filler is difficult to get pulled out thin enough. Well, one day when I was browsing Evercoat's site trying to figure out the differences in each of the fillers they made. I came across this From what I have found online, it's straight styrene. It has a golden color and you use it to make the filler more flowable. I put some filler on the mixing board. Then you add some honey and mix it up. Then you add hardener, then mix and fill. It lengthens the working time of the filler and the filler has more of a glazing putty consistency. I really like it. I could almost just add a cup or so to the gallon can of filler to reduce it, instead of doing each individual batch.

Sarah, Not only have I enjoyed your post here but I benefited greatly from a thread you had about Z3 roof leaks. Because of that I was able to seal the little seals at the roof corners and get the Z3 much drier. At least as dry as a convertible can get. ? Take care and be safe. Enjoy the ride, however you get there! Charles

Sorry to see you go. I'll never forget the yogurt cup test you introduced me to. If it wasn't for that who knows how long it would taken me to find my vacuum leak. Drop us a line every now and then. Don't be a stranger. Bob

FW Sarah!Great to hear from you!!!!!! You will be back. ? Be sure to connect if you ever come up to Nova Scotia.

FAKE NEWS! The 6 angry DEMS officiating are CONFLICTED! We must build a defensive WALL! Time for the REPLAY rule to be OVER! and OVERTURNED! hurting the united STATES of america!

Sarah, Wow. Seconded. So sorry to hear you won't be a Z owner anymore. I've greatly enjoyed all of our interactions and hope we can continue in some form in the future. I understand the need for attention on other facets of life and here's to hoping that life's priorities are achievable to a happy balance. Enjoy the sailing waters. Bruce

I agree, mine was bought in the Deep South from a dealership in Huntsville Alabama. After adding a header I lost the heat riser and now it pulls air from the bottom hole no matter the flap setting. Runs great SUMMER/WINTER both.

Sad day for us that know you and have learned so much from your posting. You helped me with great kindness and understanding patience. Thank You very much Sarah, you'll always be a friend. I hope your partner the very best! Cliff

I do not think the summer/winter flapper is a cold area option. Every car in North America has one of these after 1971. And I would guess most had it on the 71 model as well.

So it appears switzerland was classified as a "cold area". Both of my cars (built in late 1971) came with the additional flap and hose, as seen in this quite bad picture (the only useful one i found, right now), from before i took everything apart ?

It dulled the finish. Further polishing was difficult without removing the bumper. Took it to a professional who quoted 250.00 to polish. So I gave up and gave away the bumpers and had two bumpers rechromed at a quality shop. One of the best things I added to my car. 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

That's a very good point. The overall fit and finish of the Eastwood tooling looks and feels great, BUT, I have not actually had a chance to make a flare with it yet! Perhaps I should before letting my precious FedHill tool escape my grasp. I know I know, who in the their right mind buys a new tool without immediately taking it out of the box and trying it? I've been busy, ok?

I always liked the Factory5 Supercar. I could consider doing one of those if I ever got caught up on projects ?

Here is a kit car worth considering: https://translate.google.ca/translate?sl=en&tl=ja&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.factoryfive.com%2Fgtm-supercar%2F

I bet you studied this ? https://translate.google.ca/translate?sl=en&tl=ja&u=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FCarburetor_icing

Did the body today, and the roof twice. Worried about sanding through the paint again, and over-corrected instead by not sanding enough. After polishing, I put it outside and decided that it just wasn't good enough. Second time around isn't perfect, but it looks loads better, even without the polish yet. Now I'll probably want to go back and clean up the B pillars and maybe the shoulder part of the rear quarters. Finally getting the hang of the DA polisher, too.