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About jerz

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    Kent, United Kingdom
  • Occupation
    Chartered Surveyor

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1978 registered 260Z coupe in silver with 63000 miles from new. I am the third owner and bought the car in 2002. The car is stock, including the factory aluminium wheels and front and rear spoilers.

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  1. Steering wheel rims on later models are finished in hard rubber, like the later model shift knobs. There is a slight difference in the 1977/78 model steering wheel hard rubber rim than earlier type hard rubber rims, in that the former type hard rubber rim has faux "stitching" at the 6 o'clock position, whereas the 1977/78 model does not, I believe (same as on my 1977 UK 260Z, i.e., no faux stitching ).
  2. Evidently, from the photographs, a great deal of work has gone into awakening your car, after years of slumber, but it will be worth it. I think you can safely say that the finish on your brake lines is factory stock, which you will simply have to find a way of replicating. I don't know what the finish to the pipes is, but it is clearly long-lasting, bearing in mind the exposed locations where they are routed, especially under the car. In terms of the air chamber I use for my car, the link is here: Presumably there is something similar in the US available. There are some good videos on YouTube in respect of the advantages of keeping your car maintained in controlled conditions. As I said in an earlier post, I do find that it keeps metal surfaces from corroding, and after being in the chamber since 2002, there is no corrosion on the vulnerable front brake discs on my car.
  3. Amazing that you've only ever driven your car a couple of times in wet, or icy weather. I would never get out of the house eight months of the year, if that was the case with my daily driver! Garages constructed of masonry can allow dampness and condensation to form on, and subsequently harm, metal surfaces, even plated finishes. I keep my car in a "Carcoon" air chamber literally all the time (as it's not been on the road since 2002), which protects from condensation, moisture and sudden temperature changes. As to the color specifications, there are a couple of ways I would go about ensuring the finish on the brake and fuel lines is replicated. The first way would be to take a brake line off your car and get it color-matched, by making up an aerosol spray at a local auto shop, or DIY store. The second way would be to get a hard brake line part number from the L-Drive parts fiche, see if the item is still available, new, then use that as a basis to obtain the exact color-match. I do have a couple of NOS horns that have the olive green finish applied to them, but the photograph (attached) may not be entirely representative of the true color, unfortunately, as it was taken under a fluorescent light. I have taken a picture of the olive green-finished horn next to a NOS brake line, as a comparison. There does appear to be a little color variance but, as I mentioned in my post above, that is to be expected.
  4. Attached are some images of a couple of NOS, OEM Nissan, hard brake lines, for my 1977-built 260Z (UK car), if it helps. There is a little bit of shade variance between the two parts, but that would be expected across items manufactured at different times. I don't know if they salt the roads in the US, but those white specks occur on UK cars when the water evaporates from waterborne road salt. I have seen the olive green colour (color) of your hard brake lines on other Nissan parts of that late 1970's era.
  5. I love this thread, and am intending to keep the flat tops on my 1977-built, UK-model, 260Z when it is (eventually) restored. In respect of the front calipers, I have a pair of genuine NOS LH and RH ones, where the images below could be used as a reference for people completing stock restorations. They have a matt, grey, finish in stock form, with various green, blue, black and red paint spots daubed at various locations (see images). One of the calipers also has some white paint daubed on the front of the pad. The caliper bolts have black paint daubed on the bolt heads.
  6. The 1977 280z has the same map lamp bulb as my (UK) 1977 260z. I am not sure what the bulb-type model reference is, but looking at my UK R-Drive fiche the Nissan part number is 26261-89903 (from 08/73 on), which still appears to be readily available, new.
  7. Thanks to Sean Dezart for three of the images I have posted up here. I am trying to find out the differences between S30 headlamp buckets, so that I can identify part numbers 63116-N4600 (LH) and 63115-N4600 (RH), which are correct for my late 1977 UK-model 260Z coupe. On my R-Drive fiche, these part numbers are correct for European S30 models from 0/76 on. I do know that the black headlamp bucket in the image below is part number 63116-N4700 (LH), with the corresponding right hand side, part number, 63115-N4700. These (N4700 units) are correct for a 8/76 on 280Z, and have a captive nut (ringed in red in the image) to the second hole back from the front. I cannot definitively identify the other three variants part numbers in the images below, which respectively have four (no captive nut), three and two holes in the bottom section of the headlamp bucket. I think these are all metal assemblies. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
  8. In the UK it means something is scaled up on the inside, for example, with limescale.
  9. Yes, in Europe, according to my R-Drive factory fiche (see below), Nissan retained the solid rubber bushings until the S30 ceased production in1978. It is a good point you make about the moustache bar not actually being a suspension element.
  10. Just to add to this thread that European-specification cars, at least from 07/71, were equipped with solid rubber inserts between the concentric metal bush parts, part number 55476-E4102, which probably helped to firm up the suspension.
  11. If it helps, the part number is 11037-E3000.
  12. Fascinating read. Thanks for the write ups. I did wonder why that part of the mechanism had such a large diameter, when only a small pivot would generally be required. I think everyone who reads this will now want to test theirs out!
  13. From my UK R-Drive fiche, part number 11140-P6500 fits the 280ZX from 10/78 on.
  14. I know that the black paint over "silver" applies to the original-style "wire" blades, like those in the images below, but that may not be the case on any replacement parts.
  15. If you strip off the black paint, the components are "silver"-finish underneath. Technically, any car manufactured prior to 08/76 should have "silver"-finished components.