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Haha!! From the Zcon thread:

I swapped to an s13 fs5w71c gearbox about 3 years ago, just because it came up cheap and I fancied learning how to rebuild one. I'm using the original 3.7 r200 but put a Quaife in last year, which shaved about 0.3 seconds off. I think next on the wishlist is the AZC or TTT drop links & dog bone kit for the rear suspension mounts. I think I have some movement back there on hard starts. And I do have a finned diff rear cover I'm looking for an excuse to use.

It was a turbo. Had to do new pistons and cams. Because this car is meant to be driven I went for the Z432 look.

I have a period correct mirror used in 432R. No knob (light weight for racing) 96321-E4100

It always bothered me that there isn’t an indicator on the dash to verify I am in 3rd gear and not 5th. Just because I push the shifter further over - how do I really know that I am in 5th and not 3rd? Just because I follow the pattern on that stupid little knob doesn’t mean I have actually changed anything

I have used a professional brake line flaring tool from FedHill now for about 7-8 years and it has never failed to make a perfect flare that seals the first time you assemble the connection. I am now offering it for sale. I've heard the pain in prose from several here in many threads about the agony of making brake lines. This will forever remove the temptation of using old lines when new ones become so easy to make. Recently Eastwood had a big Black Friday sale (didn't everyone?) and decided to replace it with their similar tool that comes with not only the 45 double flare dies, but an additional 37 deg tooling set that I find myself using more and more when I install AN piping components. My hand held RIGID 37 deg flare tool, while high quality, is not my favorite tool to use. Thus my old trusty flare tool is now surplus. It comes with dies for 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 line. I've only ever used the 3/16 dies for brake lines, as I use 37deg flares on the other sizes when doing fuel lines and such as they connect to AN fittings. I only ever used the Cunifer (Copper Nickle Alloy) line with is very soft and very easy on the tooling. All documentation is included. It makes bubble and single flares as well as the standard (for us) double flares. Here is what Fed Hill sells now. Mine has their earlier steel box case. http://store.fedhillusa.com/index.aspx/ImageGallery/Index?productId=24 Note that this is a tool that MUST be used clamped in a bench vise. Makes it tough to use on a line under the car if you're repairing an existing line, you'll need a hand held tool for that. I recommend this one https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html Retail is $360 USD on the fed hill tool, I'm looking for $200 + shipping. You'll wonder how you ever did without it. PM me or send me an email z240@shaw.ca

'Probably' the best Datsun calender in the world ! $23 posted to your door. Can be paid for via Paypal. Will be posted early December to arrive well in time for Christmas ! Free 50years sticker now arrived to be included with each calender.

I thinking of adding a Vintage air kit to my car, would this eliminate the need for the factory heater stuff under the dash ?

I bought on of these at Lowes for a couple of bucks, 2" cap for the end of the transmission. I also used it when cleaning the transmission as seen below. Cheap oven cleaning foam from Walmart and a pressure washer. Worked very well.

I don't agree with your assertion, and I was going to write a rebuttal to your post. After having thought about it, I am not going to provide a rebuttal. As I doubt, I will change your mind and you haven't changed mine. It seems like a poor use of time to try. As well as the obvious thread jack it would be. My apologies to @7tooZ for the distraction.

This is a good point, and it's after you drain the transmission fluid. In case you were thinking you could pull it with the fluid in. As things tilt, there will be residual fluid draining. You could leave all of the fluid in but you'll need a much tighter seal. You'll probably need to remove the console also to get to the shifter. The propeller shaft bolts will be hard to remove, but should be since you'll want the prop shaft off before pulling. You can leave the slave cylinder hanging. Remove the radiator, don't try to finesse the engine out with it in. Take pictures or mark your parts with tape. Use ink that won't rub off with greasy fingers, or put the label inside the bag. There's a lot of small stuff that could/should be done before even hooking up the hoist. A few thoughts in case it's your first time.

Nice work. Makes you wonder how you managed to live all those years without a lathe, right?

The engineers included a built in audible warning signal that you are in 3rd when you should be in 5th, it sounds like a high pitched turbine combined with breaking metal, very distinctive sound.

Did you convert a Turbo RB20 or non Turbo RB20? I like the Z432-R 'look' now you just need the Ikeda Bussan seats to match! https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11823-evie-1972-datsun-240z/?do=findComment&comment=188566 They are not too comfortable though.

Just before pulling the engine/trans combo, put a jack under the Diff and lift the rear end of the car, makes pulling the engine easier, a shallower angle. We won't get tired as long as you are posting pics

Dude!!!! That is super cool.

Truth is independent of perspective. Everything else is opinion, there is only one truth.

The business plaza I saw on Google maps didn't look like there would have been a shop in the back but I'd still contact them. I'm betting they'll direct you to their cam grinding shop for more info. Good luck.

Thats great, if I tried that in North Florida, the Z would be toast. I was getting concerned after a bunch pages and I never saw primer being applied after the media. I'm not jumping ahead on the thread, I dont want to spoil the good show.

The humidity in this part of the world tends to be pretty low. We generally don't have to rush to seal the metal after exposing it. The hand lotion companies do great business here.

Mark - I did read Jeff's post and it was what made me decide to look into the cam in my car. I think I''ll contact RC and send them the pictures to see if it was a cam that they might have fabricated. Thank you for pointing me into a direction which will hopefully have a positive outcome.

When do we get to discuss if the coolant temp sensors are correct or not? AFM? Thermostat? Oh right, we should do something else now....

So I made up a two piece press on the lathe for shaping the T/C rod bushing collars, I thought at first my big vise would do the job but then ended up with the press on the anvil using a sledge as a hammer. The blanks are 16ga sheet metal, same as the originals. If anyone has a need I can punch out a few more, start to finish, about an hour to make 2

I don’t get this thread. Why are we arguing the science behind a device that is so widely accepted in the industry. It works - use your time for something else IMHO

I like the looks of the pan. I don't know if it's in my immediate plans right now.

Danny , Sounds awesome!! I love the tunnel with opening the windows, your RB20 is very well tuned , response is sharp and quick . . What kind of ignition system do you use ? LHD S30 with DOHC , I have been thinking doing it but not any progress so far . You did it already ! I have heard RB series engines were only applied for RHD destinations due to the issue of the exhaust fabrication. Is it true ? Only Japan , UK , Australia, New Zealand, etc ? Kats

What's wrong with those????

Siteunseen - this is great. Thanks for taking the time to help. I appreciate it. AND, definitely no texture. CantechZ - if you're out there - thank you as well.

Yeah... the 2 DUTCH Boy's..