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"So honey , I bought another Z today" instant response ," you've got to be fu@£NIH kidding me " anyone else have this conversation-lol Anyway, didn't see this one coming but it's landed in my lap. # 4858 , 5/70 build date. Still not even to my house yet and I've spent a total of 15 minutes looking at it. Too many unknowns to answer anything specific , but it's definetly fixable . Actually in pretty decent shape- respective of its age. Update this when I get it home .

Now that's a horse of a different color. If you hold the throttle at a certain position and the engine doesn't maintain speed, it's likely that the engine is running out of fuel. You need to check Fuel pressure Float levels Since you say you have already set the float levels, you might want to check fuel pressure. Here's the gauge I have in my car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIH38M. You will also need this adapter if you are running standard fuel lines: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00093CL3M. You should be running about 3 to 3.5 PSI IIRC. If you have enough pressure, then you probably don't have your float levels set properly. If the pressure is low then it's probably 1 or more of these: Weak/undersized pump Rust/pinholes in the pickup in the tank Kinked fuel line Partially blocked fuel line. Fuel filter that is getting loaded up with crap from the fuel tank. If you get to a point where you want to throw your hands up, I can refer you to a number of people in the area I would trust to resolve your problem.

He posted over on hybridz.org at the same time and "Globerunner513" gave him this link - http://www.300zx.cl/ga/300zx/images/serial number Datsun Z Car.htm Probably doesn't need the thread anymore. It did turn up a nice reference though, if it's correct. Seems to fit the numbers shown above, and my car. A dead cat bounce is when a small good thing happens after a big bad thing. Like when stock prices go up after a big crash. Kind of dumb financial term.

My wife is always encouraging me to buy Z cars! I am very fortunate for that... of course she knows I am emotionally attached to my Z cars

Some pictures I took the other night.

If I put it on the accessory position and I use that position to do things like listen to the radio with the car not running I wouldn't want the fuel pump running while the car is not. If the fuel pump is in the engine running position I can turn the key to that position and let the pump charge the fuel line for a few seconds and then start it.

Somebody actually reached up by the fuse box to touch the ignition module, to see if it was hot? Just want to be sure you were looking at the right part, or don't have an aftermarket setup already in the engine bay. The thing with the throttle valve switch (should be TVS, but people use TPS) is interesting. Maybe that's the circuit in the ECU that goes bad and causes ECU problems. Weird that it wouldn't start with it disconnected though. I think that should show the ECU the position between idle and full throttle, so just a little less fuel than at idle.

Interesting little story; Had a friend whose 280Z was running intermittently and badly. She had just paid a local Shop big $$ to go over the complete EFI system. They had replaced the ECU and supposedly, " cleaned " every single electrical terminal on the engine harness. There It was. Marked right on the Work Shop order. " Clean and service electrical connectors - $250 labour " Indeed, I did find that every single connection was packed with brand new Dielectric grease.. Unfortunately they had not bothered to scrape off the old corrosion first!!! I couldn't believe, it but I found several connections with obvious green scale visible through the Dielectric grease. Including the CTS and AFM connections. Several of the injector terminals still had obvious corrosion visible if you looked closely as well. Idiots!!. I re-serviced her car in the local Canadian Tire ( CDN GI Joes ) parking lot. Two cans of Brake Clean ( to remove superfluous Dielectric grease ), Much scraping with a Jewelers screwdriver, a spray treatment of De-Oxit on every single engine harness terminal, some fresh dielectric grease.... and a free lunch from a very happy Lady whose car now purred like a kitten and has not had a single " hiccup " in over a year. It's the details that are important....

Haven't read the whole thread, so this may have been covered already. But one of the essential things to do is get a can of GOOD electrical contact spray such as De-Oxit or Weicon and spray every single electrical connection. De-Oxit and Weicon will literally clean mildly corroded contacts to as New condition with one or two applications. Heavy corrosion such as hard scale, may have to be scraped off with a Jewelers screwdriver or dental pick. If you have a electrical connection that alter how the car runs when you " wiggle " it you either have corrosion on the terminals ( doesn't take much ), a broken wire in the terminal or some other form of bad connection. 9 times out of 10 with these Vintage cars it is corrosion. They didn't use WeatherPack seals back then like Modern cars do. The TPS, all the coolant sensors on the Thermostat housing , AFM connector, all the Fuel injector terminals and ECU connectors should all be examined with a Magnifying glass and meticulously cleaned. Bad terminals should be replaced. Check all the ground wires for corrosion, frayed wires or loose connections. Take the ground wires off and sand the contact area beneath to bare metal Bad grounds will overheat components and cause them to fail. This is a big RED flag. The Trignition box should NOT be getting that hot. Could very well have been a bad ground causing it to over-heat. Now you replaced the Trignition Box with the Crane unit. The Crane Unit has it's own separate ground. So you may think that a poor ground issue to the original Trignition box is now redundant. Not so fast. Ground circuits in engine harness's are often shared with several different components. I'd have to look at the wiring diagram, but it wouldn't surprise me if the ECU, Trignition, AFM and some other sensor share a common ground. In fact, that is a SOP to ground all the sensors through the ECU through and to a common ground point to reduce voltage offsets. Making sure that all grounds are 100% should be done to eliminate any variables.

Since carb cleaner or starting fluid is flammable, your engine treats it as fuel. If you have a vacuum leak along say a gasket at the insulator blocks, that leans out the engine. When the carb cleaner gets pulled in through that leak, your mixture isn't as lean. Another method I've used in the past was an unlit propane torch. You barely crack it open, and when you get near the source of the leak, you'll hear the engine speed increase.

To add...so far, there is very, very little evidence to support Goertz involvement in the A550X development, not even from himself. If you look at the timeline of the A550X, the project started before the CSP311, and that project started before he arrived. Little mention of Kimura san claiming credit for the A550X design. The A550X project was stopped for work on the CSP311 to start and be implemented, and the A550x project was re-started just as Goertz's contract ended. Its assumed (wrongly) that since Goertz's supposed A550X design that the shape became the S30 and Toyota 2000GT. That is fake news! Most journalist just re-hash what others say, without looking at more historical information and testimony from people who where there. It takes a lot of time to collate and sift through what evidence is out there, I know, as I am doing the research! The reason is not wholly established why the Yamaha and Nissan split came about, but it is more likely due to Nissan promising Yamaha that they could build the CSP311 body, and then Nissan changing their minds. The A550X project was in the wrong place at the wrong time in the squabble, not that it was any more than a concept design.

I don't remember much from my carb days but I do know that if it runs well at higher air flow levels but has problems at low air flow, that's usually a sign of a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks get over-powered at high air flow levels. This is true for EFI also. So I might focus on small air leaks. With carbs those can be at the mounting gasket surface, or the intake runner to head surface. I know somebody that spent a lot of time with similar problem and it was a cracked base plate on the carburetor. That was a late-model Chevy V8. A test the EFI guys use will also work with carbs I think. Get the idle speed up just enough to keep it running. Then spray carb cleaner or starting fluid at the places you think might be letting air past the carbs. If the air doesn't go through the carb it doesn't pick up any fuel and you'll get a lean condition, with stumbling and poor running.

Missed that one. How many miles on the engine? I wonder if it's one of those "ran when parked" cars. Is penetrating lubricant really lubricant? And how much oil gets thrown up from the crankshaft at cranking speeds? Does it even reach the swept area? Just being tribological. It would be pretty cool if it cranked up and ran well after 34 years. You need to add a car to your sig now.

Any service manual or Phil's "Quick and Dirty SU Tuning" will show the screw. It's pretty easy to find by studying the linkage.

Sounds great when the RPM go up. Firing order and timing seem right. Any way to just turn up the idle speed to keep it running, so that you can mess with it? I don't know SU's.

It's s30.org Cliff, https://www.s30.org It's kind out of date and not very functional but look under the heading "timeline". It breaks the z down by the year. And Please tell us more about how you grabbed that P_s_y!

Is that zhome.com, the registry you're reading? I've never heard the dead cat story. Had one climb in the window and wizz/spray in mine before. I'dve like to bounced him to death, that's a bad smell.

Thanks for the suggestion @jfa.series1. I went with the Eiko's

If by "non-locking" you mean the same thing: It's simply a 60 degree tapered collar that is crimped (lightly) to the shank of the nut, allowing it to spin freely and independently of the nut. That 60 degree taper sits on a matching 60 degree taper in the wheel, allowing the nut to tighten up onto the wheel stud and spin on the flat side of the collar. It accurately centres the (stud centric) wheel on the wheel studs, and saves the nut from galling the wheel. Simple. It's a fancy washer, in essence. Small Fords of the 1970s had a similar design (although 1.5 pitch) and RS Watanabe's in-house nuts do too.

What is the advantage of the non-locking nuts? Apparently the Enkei wheels fitted to the 4 banger works cars of the period also had non-locking nut types. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZM9h8nL9ss0eXiE42 I have heard a few people describe them to me, but not actually sure of their real advantage? Are these the same nuts? Photos attached.

That is Nuts. I use a small engineering shop who only make prototype runs, (small batch engineering is how they formed their name!). I'm not in the enviable to need them, just if it would help yourself. They're going to make a set of spindle pins and little bits for me.

Kats, Here's a crude sketch of how I believe they made those lug nuts: They could have made the entire nut from one piece, but they would have needed to start with the lager rod and they would have needed to create the hex portion in a different operation. Making hex shapes on a lathe is a more difficult thing to do, so if you start with hex shaped material, then everything is simple lathe work. If you have to actually cut the hex shape, you need a more complicated machine. You may even have to transfer the parts to a different machine completely in order to cut the hex. Starting with hex shaped material allows them to do everything on simple lathes and also reduces the amount of total material they have to remove in order to create the final part. One other advantage to using two parts is that it allows them to use different materials for the two portions. I don't know if they did something like that, but for example, it could have allowed them to do something like use a hardened seat on the tapered locating washer while still having a more ductile unhardened threaded portion.

Wow! This thread has really taken off. Once again the Z community is out in force. Well GOOD NEWS! I solved MY rear diff clunk (yours may be different). I went back to my original "diff sandwich" setup but with a small update. First, using another member's suggestion I cut a piece of heater hose and inserted it in between the two plates of the lower diff mount. This took some real effort as I used a large flat head screw driver to pry open the mount enough to get the piece of heater hose in. As I talked about it later with Mike W, it probably would have been easier to put it on the diff so it was held in place while I worked on it. Either way, its in and you can see it in the pictures below. Next I had ordered a new snubber bushing for my RT mount a few weeks ago. If anyone is wondering they are made by Prothane and are part number 19-1318-BL. Got 'em on Amazon for $17.61 shipped for two as they are sold in pairs. Just like I did with my old '72 240z, I only cut off one layer of the bushing. I also cut the threaded stud down to clear the parking brake mechanism. Using my adjustable safety stand I was able to push up on the cross member to get all four bolts in over half way, then working from side to side I tightened in equal steps and torqued anything down. With everything buttoned up I did a once over on all the other suspension fasteners to make sure they nice and tight and they were. Down came the car for a test drive, success! Just cruising around and doing some spirited driver revealed no clunks or noises. The only time I heard anything was when I drove it really hard, almost approaching abuse I could hear and feel the rear drive line make a thump/thud sound but not quite a clunk. I think it was just from drive train shock from hard driving. I never drive the car like this so in my opinion I think everything is good as the drive line now feels rock solid. I do not get any noise or vibration from this setup either. If you have any questions please post them and I will do my best to address them.