Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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I finally tore down the engine that came with the 71 240Z that I bought ( It was mounted to a nice stainless steel rolling stand. ) and started to pull everything apart. The guy said it was just rebuilt and had not been run yet. No way was this going in the car without a thorough tear down and tolerance check. This is an F54 block with std 79 flat tops. I pulled all the pistons and started to plasti gauge the center main bearing. I started with green plastic and it did not even touch the cap. ( these are brand new bearing shells ) I went to the red plastic and torqued the cap down to 40flbs. the reading was approx 3/4 of 0.152. approx 0.114. the next were the same, moving…
Last reply by Dobber, -
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Why did Nissan fold the sequence of intake and exhaust ports in the centre of the head rather than doing a consistent pattern from cylinder 1 to 6: i.e: E1I1 I2E2 I3E3 | E4I4 E5I5 I6E6 rather than E1I1 E2I2 E3I3 | E4I4 E5I5 E6I6 Having E3&E4 side-by-side in the middle does not seem like a good thermal geometry. As well, consistent port and chamber geometry and intake runner and exhaust runner spacing has been sacrificed... I am curious as to why?
Last reply by Arne, -
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I replaced the outer ujoint on the half shaft of my '73 z about a month and a half ago. Today it totally let loose. I can't help but think I did something wrong but I just don't know what. The ujoint was pressed in by a local machine shop and I'm unsure if I should bring it back there. It looks as though 3 of the 4 "plugs" that hold the ujoint in are gone. I found one sitting on the control arm and part of it is bust off. (picture below) Any insight/thoughts on what may have gone wrong would be appreciated so I don't make the same mistake twice. Sorry for the poor photo/video. Couldn't really see anything as it was dark and raining. http://www.youtube.com/…
Last reply by warcmalla, -
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Will an L28 engine bolt directly to a original 240Z Automatic Transmission? I am looking to use the Z for Bracket Racing and the automatic trans will provide the greatest continuity between runs. What modification, if any need to be made? I have not seen this subject covered anywhere in this forum. Thank you for your time.
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I removed the bypass oil system from my car yesterday and replaced the filter and oil. i checked the capacity in two locations 5qts. Added this amount and took the car for a short drive, tuned off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes, checked the level and it was above the F mark on the dip stick. What could be my problem ?
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Last night I spent over an hour removing my rear main seal. I don't mean pulling the trans and clutch, I mean just getting the seal out of the block. There has got be an easier way. The seal was dry and cracked and stuck fast to the engine. First, I had to break things free by placing a flat-head screwdriver against the seal every few millimeters and driving it hard with a rubber hammer until a "snap" is heard. Then I had to drill out a series of small holes around the seal through the interior metal "skeleton" of the seal and screw in a metal screw to pull like hell on. The pulling and tugging probably took about 40 minutes of grunting, sweating and cursing. Is it u…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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I just bought a 71 240z recently as a donor for my 73, I have gotten what I need out of it but now I want to either sell it all or part it out. I have the complete engine that I don't need and I'd rather someone else who needs it, have it. What is a fair price to ask for it? I'm not looking to rip anyone off I just don't have any idea what its worth.
Last reply by samzhot240, -
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Hmmmm the alignment pin below the bolt does not align with the holes in the front cross member. The pins are ~3mm too low. The catalog says 62-600 [70-83] and the car is a '71 so I don't understand. Before I slot the existing holes any insight?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Okay, I've pulled the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, trans. input seal and trans. output seal - the whole interior of the bell housing was coated with a nasty mix of motor oil, gear oil and clutch dust. Now it's time to reassemble. Do you use loctite on the flywheel bolts? Red or Blue? Do you use anti-seize on the flywheel bolts? What about the pressure plate bolts? Is the flywheel or pressure plated coated with any kind of rust inhibitor? If so what is the best way of dealing with this? Should the pilot bearing be greased or oiled or dry? Sorry about all the questions, but I don't want to have to pull the transmission again anytime soon. Thank you,
Last reply by twsutt, -
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Can anyone help with this. I need 8 D Bolt 1/2 shaft bolts for an R180 differential. The part number is 38228-21000. My nissan dealer says no longer avail. I could get by with used ones if anyone has some. need the d bolts, nuts and washers. need for 73 240z
Last reply by manny1973, -
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In the FSM, it gives valve specs for "cold" and then for "hot." Question is, if valve clearance is set with the engine cold is it necessary to to re-set with the engine hot? I've talked to several mechanic friends who all disagree, some say set cold an forget others say set it only when hot and others set when cold and re-check when hot. This is not something I want to do several times.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Hi So I'm looking to buy a new water inlet fitting (pass side of front cover, above alt) for my F54 L28 and I've come across plenty of inlet fittings for L24/L26. The thing is the pics shown for these L24/L26 items look virtually identical to the one currently on my L28. Are they interchangeable or is there a difference? Thx!
Last reply by chaztg,
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