Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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I have a 1975 280z with a four speed. When I bought it, the guy had a 5 speed as well that he gave me. It is an earlier wide ratio 5, but I'd still like to drop it in there to see if it's good. My brother, the pro mechanic, may pull it apart, just to see if the inside looks ok before we put it in. So, aside from the internals, is there other things I need to worry about? i.e.: - Do the 4 and 5 speeds use the same clutch and throw out? - same driveshaft and flange? - same tranny mount hardware? - I seem to have read a thread that suggests the shifter is a little long. Is that long on the top end, where I just cut an inch off the top, or is more finesse required? Is t…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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1974 260z. Swapping to 5spd manual from the auto 2 spd. Can I just unplug tranny cooler lines and leave the radiator with nothing attached to the tranny cooler part? Or do I have to swap radiators, too? Thanks! Justin
Last reply by Arne, -
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Hey guys I'm slowly moving along with my project I would like to know if there is a preferred sealant for the gaskets and threaded parts and is it necessary to use a sealant on freeze plugs? The guy at auto supply recommended - BLACK SILICONE adhesive sealant by Permatex for everything. Any other recommendations would be appreciated. THANKS.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Well, I decided to adjust my lifters today because the valvetrain was starting to get louder and power was off by the seat of my pants. I got to #4 exhaust and bumped it to put the lobe base on the rocker. As I looked closely I realized that the backside of the lobe was heavily wiped. It is/was a Crane cam with 272 lift. It sucks because I only needed the car running until after ZCON2011. I now have to make a decision. I can swap the hotter L28 out of my 280Z track car because it isn't street legal or being driven right now or I can swap out the worn camshaft with either a 'A' or 'B' cam I have in the garage or pull the camshaft out of the 280Z (specs unknown). If I choo…
Last reply by zKars, -
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I have a freashly rebuilt N42 head that I am planning on installing on my 240 block. I have seen a few posts explaining that the cylinder bore must be notched so the larger intake valve will clear it. Does anyone have any information or tips on the size and positioning of the notch to be made? Does the bore only need to be notched on the intake valve side or does the exhaust valve have a clearance problem as well? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Just tore down a short block. The folded mesh material in the block where the tube to the PCV valve has rusted to mush. Is there a synthetic material substitute that can be used to replace it?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Ok, I realize I have a drive line or half shaft issue but looking to confirm. Installed the RT diff mount, which made a huge difference! But I am finding an increasing vibration at 3000 rpms and above (gets worse, the higher the rpms). When I let off the gas, the vibration goes away, so is my assumption correct? Anything else I should check? Have an 83 5 speed and R200 diff installed. Visually, don't see any issues with u-joints, but that doesn't always mean anything. Thoughts? Thanks!
Last reply by 240slidekat, -
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So I've had my 260 for a while now, and when I tuned the carbs in the past I've used a unisyn to balance and done the rest by ear. But this week I looked up more advanced ways of tuning like using a vacuum guage and using the tabs on the bottom of the carb to lift the piston.(I also tried using a colorTune but it turned out to be the most worthless thing I have ever bought, my engine was almost stalling on the road when it told me I was in the "bunson blue perfection zone") After using all these tests(besides the ridiculous colorTune) they all imply that I am too lean no matter what I do. Float bowls as rich as they will go and mixture knobs all the down. The car runs …
Last reply by doodles526, -
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Just cleaned up a 4speed z transmission and noticed a crack in the casing (see attachment). I tried to turn the bolt to inspect further and it let go. Is this a common failure point?
Last reply by zKars, -
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Hey guys, So i took apart my 5speed today to make sure everything is ok internally before i swap it in to the car and to just count the ratios and they aren't adding up right. All I'm doing is counting the teeth on the gear and dividing by each other to figure out the ratio. Im getting first as 2.3 and 2nd as 1.4. Any ideas? Do these things have a reduction gear somewhere that i'm missing? below is a pic.
Last reply by doradox, -
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Can anyone confirm what the proper vacuum reading should be on a carbureted L28 at idle? Thanks Guy
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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I've joined this forum to get some advice on a project car my Dad and I are working on. Dad bought the Zap Colour car new in 1972 but when I was born in 1980 he stopped driving it. It then sat for nearly 30 years at my grandparents' until we decided to restore it. However as you might imagine the car's engine refuses to turn over. We have tried to turn over by hand with a socket on the HB and poored WD40 in all cylinders for a period of time. When we try and rock the car in gear it doesn't seem to roll either. We have also tried a new battery and the starter tries to turn but not enough grunt to turn engine over. We know all electrics are fine on the car and working. A…
Last reply by JLPurcell,
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Mark Maras
