Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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Hey I just started my first z restoration. I am currently swapping parts over from a 73 to a 72. I am converting the 72 from automatic to manual. Everything has swapped over well so far, until I found the clutch hard line, running from the master cylinder to the clutch hose on the slave, on the 73 is in bad shape and wont swap over well. Does anybody know where I might find a clutch hard line? Any help would be greatly appeciated. Thanks.
Last reply by robftw, -
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I'm looking to get my camshaft reground locally and i've come up with two possible grinds that will suit my needs. I primarily drive this car on the street, and take it to the strip every weekend. I'm looking for something that would wake the car up from about 2000 to 6500 Rpm These are the two grinds i've been looking at, and i'd like some opinions / input on them. 1) Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 274/274 2) Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 274/280 And a 3rd option which i'm not so sure about is this one, Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 270/280 MSA sells this grind and i guess the car really bogs down un…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Im hoping that there may be a simple way for me to solve my issue, and the forum seems to be the best place for answeres. After limping home as a moving cloud, i realized it was time for a new head gasket. Seeing as how i have done one in my jetta, i figured it wouldnt be that bad, and up until not it wasnt. According to my manuel, i needed to put a wood wedge in the chain in attempts to keep it up. This worked well until trying to install the head once again. Now after the head is bolted down, im attempting to install the cam gear with the chain in the correct location, and am finding that i have about 1/4" that i need to make up in order for the gear to slide over the c…
Last reply by Skyhook, -
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My rear end is 3.545 Current transmission is 1 - 3.321 2 - 2.077 3 - 1.308 4 - 1.000 5 - 0.864 The trans im looking at is this 1 - 3.062 2 - 1.858 3 - 1.308 4 - 1.000 5 - 0.745 I feel when im going through gears the powerband drops off when going to 3rd, i want to remove this. I also drop a lot of RPM while shifting. with this new transmission my 1st-2nd gear should have slightly slower acceleration but a higher speed in each gear with the benefit of being closer to each other it should be slightly "faster" correct? Will swapping to the new transmission alleviate this problem?
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Just finished my first real road test and I have a couple of questions. I'm running a Hi Volume oil pump on Valvoline racing 20-50 for the zinc content. Is the normal oil pressure 80 psi because that's what I'm reading ? A question for you triple guys out there. I have an N42 with a E88 head, mild cam, headers, and 40 DHLA Dell's with 30 chokes on a Cannon manifold. It seems to pull hard to 4000 but above that in 4th I'm falling off. Do I need to go to 32 or 34 chokes ? What are you guys running ? Jet size seems to be ok, I had to bring it down from 140 to 130 because the plugs were reading rich.
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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I replaced my rear struts and refreshed my rear suspension in March and since the first test drive I have had a rear clunk. I did not have this clunk prior to replacing the rear struts. I replaced the struts with the rear diff installed but mustache bar removed. Not sure if that matters or not. Since then I have loosened and re-torqued all rear suspension bolts both jacked up and under load, front and rear differential supports and checked the U-Joints on the drive shaft and half-shafts. When I reinstalled everything I did not install a rear anti-sway bar that the PO had installed. I do not think that this could cause the clunk. Please correct me if I am wrong and I…
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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Hi, I just had my 260 engine rebuilt. It is running like s**T. I did a poor mans compression test (finger over the spark plugs while cranking engine) and the # 5 seemed to have no compression. In any case the engine is under warranty and the company that rebuilt it seems to be rather clueless. I say this because they want to check the carbs as they think this may be the issue. Now I do not claim to be Mr. Goodwrench but my understanding of this engine leeds me to believe that if there is no compression or very weak compression it would either be the valves or the rings. Would someone please let me know if there could be other reasons besides the rings or valves or if I am…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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Hi I just replazced the clutch preasureplate and bearing on my 1974 260z. It now grabs very close to the top on the clutch pedal travel. How can I adjust the pedal so the clutch grabs a little closer to the floor Thanks Glenn
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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I have a 72 240z. When I bought it two years ago it had a rebuilt engine, performance cam, header, stock carbs. The problems I have are it tends to run hot, gets poor gas mileage and the power seems to stall at higher RPM and sounds like a jet at higher RPM (from the motor not the exhaust). It never misses or stumbles, it just stops accelerating. I have replaced the cam with a new stock cam. That quieted down and helped it run a bit cooler, but it still has the problems. The dwell is correct and the timing is correct. Both the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance are working. The rear carb is running a bit rich (black plugs on the back three) but the carb is adju…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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At the risk of getting booed offstage, I'm going to ask the same question I've been asking in "points vs pertronix". With a lot of help from Arne I got my pertronix ignition working. It starts and runs much better and no longer backfires. However, when the engine gets warmed up, the problems start. Note that when I start out, it runs like a champ. I can rev all the way up to 6000 rpm without a hiccup, going uphill as fast as I can go, in all gears (keeping it under 80mph, mind you). But once that temperature guage gets near the half-way point, it starts having problems. It will hiccup and run poorly around 4000-5000 RPM. Usually when its warm and I pull into my ga…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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just peeked under my '72. it has 81-83ZX 5spd. noticed a tiny puddle of oil at the rear of the trans. is the rear seal replacable in-situ without a removal/rebuild of the whole trans? if so, any how-to tips would be appreciated. i did a trans gear oil change about 1000miles ago, checked for overfill, and it didn't leak at all since yesterday... thanks! ..must be the Brit car gods getting back at me on my post about Brit car vs. Z in Open Z car discussion
Last reply by cegrover, -
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I am refreshing the halfshafts from a 240z and would like to replace the 24 X 7/16" ball bearings. Would anyone know the hardness rating/grade of the originals? btw From my web searches it seems some halfshafts and drawings show 3 of the teflon/plastic spacers in each groove and others have only 2 spacers in each groove. My 71 240z halfshafts have 3 bearings and 2 spacers in each of the 4 grooves.
Last reply by 240260280z,
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