Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,552 topics in this forum
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I finally got a lead on a 5 speed, which has been sitting on the shelf since the mid 90's at a Sacramento manual trans business . Went to look at it, appeared to have a close ratio tail housing. Did a quick check of the 1st and 5th gear ratios by marking shafts and turning, not too accurate. Estimated 5th was .773, and first was 3.6, which I thought odd. They recently replaced the seals since it was sitting for so long, and came with 1 year warranty. They unfortunately painted it gray, ugggh. Anyway, decided to buy it. It looks like like a typical close ratio tail shaft housing, no dust shield, bottom speedo bolt, one rear tab, reverse lockout plate. Its does …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 3 followers
- 14 replies
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Hey Guys, I have been trying to tackle an elusive problem on my Z that has been happening since late last Spring. The issue is that During a cold start, the engine taps extremely loudly for the first few seconds, then goes away and it sounds normal. Then once it is warm it seems to just slightly tap, but not nearly as loud. If I let it sit for a little and then start it hot it will tap loud again during startup. However, sometimes about every 10 starts (different days) during hot or cold start I won't hear any noise. I tracked the tapping sound to the head toward the front of the valve cover. I am thinking 2 or 3 valves back from the front. However, I have…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
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I've got my 4 speed out to fix an annoying drip, replacing both front and rear seals. Spent an hour or so cleaning up the input shaft housing, old Permatex on gasket area, and sealant on threads and washers. Threads go into case, so FSM calls for sealant on bolts, but not much else for help. Ready to put back together, and obviously don't want it to leak. What is the best practice folks have found to get this leakproof? Thanks!
Last reply by KenFirch, -
- 4 followers
- 26 replies
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Got my intake manifold back from the machine shop, and the EGR gallery has corroded so thin you can poke through it with a screwdriver. I have a sinking feeling this manifold is toast, but with a flashlight in it I can't tell whether the ports between the EGR gallery and the intake are open. Anyone have any insights?
Last reply by ArcticFoxCJ, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 411 views
I'm trying to determine the gear ratio on my R180. There is a number on the ring gear of ?? x 394 Does this mean 3.94:1 ? Should I just see how many turns of the differential input is required to make a full revolution of the ring gear? Can anyone assist in decoding this? Jeff
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 314 views
Hi folks: It's been a minute since I was on here last, but after much dithering the boys and I *finally* got our rebuilt harmonic balancer installed on our '74 260Z. My question is... How do you know it's seated where it needs to be on the crankshaft? It *looks* about right but is there a surefire way to know? Our latest video: Thanks in advance, MC
Last reply by DadAndLadZ, -
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- 63 replies
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I just did a rebuild on a L28 engine however I stupidly did not order a new timing chain or tensioner so I reused my old ones. Engine is already placed back into the vehicle but before turning keys just want others opinion on if this tensioner being extended this much is acceptable for a first start and break in? The chain has good tension and somewhat acceptable slack. Rotated the engine multiple times too didn't see signs of it being a problem at least by hand. Any insight would be appreciated.
Last reply by zKars, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 385 views
Has anyone had any issues with the shifter bushings sold by zcardepot not fitting? I installed the pivot bushing at the bottom of the shifter, and pressed the two bushings into each side of the shifter itself. However, when I tried to stick the shifter in between the ears of the transmission to fit the shifter back into place, it wouldn't fit, the shifter bushings are just too wide. I tried using some moderate force, and one of the bushings was actually pushed out of the shifter itself by the ear on the transmission and flew off into oblivion, so now I'm having to order another bushing. Anyone ever encounter this before? Any searching I've done seems to just y…
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 2 followers
- 1 reply
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Hi, I have a rebuilt original starter which works fine when the engine is relatively cold (assuming at that point starter is also less hot!!!). If I turn off the engine at operating temp. and try to start it again my starter just clicks. It seems that plunger when hot has some issues. It happened to me the other day and I waited for everything to cool down for 20 mins and started the car again fine. I dont believe it is the inhibitor switch etc. I have a rebuilt starter on a different classic car and I am seeing similar behavior. Anyone seen similar issue?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 8 replies
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I am a new first time owner of a 72 240z. The car has a partial acceleration problem where the car will surge and stumble hard enough to chirp the tires in second gear. This only happens with partial throttle acceleration with rpm's below 3000. Flooring the accelerator causes the problem to go away. I have set the ignition timing at idle to 17 degrees BTDC. I have pulled and checked all of the spark plugs and their color indicates that the fuel mixture is correct. Compression is good and within 10% across all cylinders. I have balanced the carbs which were already very closely balanced. The spark advances with engine speed and the mechanical advance seems to opera…
Last reply by JDziark, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 218 views
Greetings. I rebuilt my 77' 280z a year ago and drove it around for a few miles just to make sure everything was running fairly smooth. The entire engine was taken apart with new bearings, rings, head bolts, etc. I live in California and did not feel like dealing with the smog just yet so I took out the dash and restored it as well as restoring the gauges with Intellitronix inserts. Now I am ready to restart it, should I be fine just to crank it right up or should I follow something like atlanticz's steps to put it back in service? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/storing/index.html "Putting Back in Service Remove plugs and crank engine at starter to…
Last reply by Zatarra, -
- 6 followers
- 32 replies
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I bought some new tires and hit the old two lane highways to rack up some miles for the break in. Smiling from ear to ear. Guy in an older 3 series BMW got behind me and heard the sound. We pull into a quick shop and I shut it down talked for a few minutes got back on the road and realized I had a dead skip. Pull over again raised the hood and clackaty clack valve sound. Slowly limped back home to do a hot valve adjustment. Pulled the cover and found a lash pad off #3 intake valve spring. Can I take that rocker arm off and put it back on? The lock nut was tight as I had done a cold adjustment when I put the motor together. Don't understand how it happened but I w…
Last reply by ckurtz2,
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