SteveJ

Suggestion - (Assuming this bolt isn't reverse threaded...) When you go to drill it out, use a left-handed drill bit. It may catch and turn the broken bolt, allowing it to come out.

I can't help you on oil pump selection. For searching, let Google do the walking. Use this text in the dialog box for the search on Google: "oil pump" site:classiczcars.com Here is what I got from that search.

Sorry, I was tired when I typed that last night. Green and yellow/blue are from the light. As I said yesterday the Y/L wire goes back to the sender. That is the negative side of the circuit. I haven't ever seen a 280Z sender to know how it is wired. However, I would guess that your problem is either that or a loose piece of metal is grounding out the negative contact on the light.

Well then, I think we may have found the source of your problem. Of course, this is how torque specs for an electrical engineer: Tighten as hard as you can. If the bolt breaks, you overtorqued the fastener. Now here is a little known fact about electricity. Many people assert that electricity is the flow of electrons. It is not. It is the flow of magic smoke. The smoke travels in the wire. When you let out the magic smoke, there is no more electricity to flow.

Check around the fuel pump sender. According to the wiring diagram, there are two wires. One is green (power from the dash lights circuit), and the other is yellow/blue. The Y/L wire goes back to the sender.

The advantage of the internally regulated alternator is that it has a higher output.

I have one for each of my Zs, but I haven't installed them, yet.

It most likely doesn't matter. The Wesco belt retractor doesn't sit in the pocket.

I agree with Leon. Start with the grounds around the steering column. Also, find a copy of the wiring diagram. Look for any black wires (with no stripes). They are marked with just a B in the wiring diagram. One or more have lost contact with a component or with the chasis.

Go to Zhome.com and look at the link on inspecting a Z car before buying it. The pictures you show don't give much detail, especially with regard to the rust-prone areas. My philosphy is get the best body car you can afford. You can always get a new drivetrain.

If you can use a multimeter, I should be able to help you, but not until I return home.

Sorry, I don't have a picture handy. I might be able to post one in the near future if I manage to remember it.

Depending upon the loading of the engine, the injector duty cycles are the first thing that come to mind. I can't think of what else off the top of my head.

I used a spacer. It works fine for me.

With no pictures, you'll just get random guesses.

Either your voltmeter is wrong or you still have a problem with your charging system. By the way, what do you mean that you have a fan & a water pump hooked up at the ballast resistor? What current are they rated for? If you are drawing too much current through the ignition, you could heat up the switch. Auxiliary items such as electric fans for cooling the radiator should not be powered through existing circuits since they could potentially overload those circuits.

Okay, go to the EE section that describes the charging system. Since you're a novice, you might need to read this: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Multimeter. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/alternator.htm Note that alternator output is proportional to engine speed. Quite a few "mechanics" today rely upon the car to diagnose itself. If the car's computer gives code X, replace part Y. If the car had X number of miles, replace these parts.

What year? The wiring is slightly different depending upon the year. Anyway, use a voltmeter to see if you have voltage along the circuit. You can find wiring diagrams at xenonS30.com. There is a good chance you haven't reconnected your grounds. (That's my first guess.)

That would be good for a short distance until the battery goes dead.

You won't get much of any answers until you come back with more data. First, download a copy of the FSM for your car. The link is in my signature. Test your electrical system with a meter per the FSM and let us know the results.

No. They are completely different. Any hatch from a non-2+2 S30 would work, though you would want to avoid one with hatch vents.

Even better: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html. Pay attention to the part about the diode.

No, the relay doesn't do anything anymore. I didn't dig into the EF section to see function of the servo that the solenoid actuated, but I can say with a high degree of confidence that the triple Webers don't need that functionality.

There is no mention of the relay or solenoid in the BE or EF sections of the 72 FSM.

The 76 belts are completely different. I don't know when I might have time to root around in the garage. I think I might have the 73 belts, still. As Jim said, it's not very wise to trust 40 year old seat belts. I would get them re-webbed. Seat belts work in part by stretching some. The 40 year old material doesn't have much stretch left. Frankly, I went with seat belts from WESCO. I have made a lot of posts about seat belts. The WESCO seat belts are much more user friendly.