SteveJ

The roof and hatch would fit from a 77 280Z as long as it's not a 2+2.

Also, only sheetmetal from the cowl foward will swap from a 2+2 to a 240Z.

From his profile, it looks like Tim might have a 71. I know another member here is restoring a 71 that has holes in the rear deck for 6x9s cut by a PO.

The AT section in my 73 FSM is the same length as the one at the link you posted. It could have been downloaded from XenonS30 for free.

That would relate to your accessory relay coil being de-energized when you turn the key to the OFF position. Unless someone hacked into the wiring, no, the fuel pump isn't on the accessory relay. The fuel pump being off when the car is off is a good thing, too. Did you test the fusible links out of the car for continuity? How did you test the battery connections? How do you tell if a wire is on the verge of dying? Does it have a cough? Check this with a multimeter. Put the leads on the battery. If the voltage drops to zero when you put a load on it, the battery could be going bad. How old is it? If the electrical system is running at 8 volts, don't run the car. You'll damage your ECU. Get your battery tested. You just said your fusible links were good. No it isn't. Get a good multimeter. Check your battery voltage as I described above. If it fails, replace your battery. Your fuel pump relay is NOT controlled by the accessory relay.

The circuits for the left and right side are isolated in the switch. IIRC the 12VDC+ splits at the switch. Look in that area. Also, look at the wiring diagram carefully. I think there is a link to a colorized version of the wiring diagram in Blue's tech tips (link below). With the high beams, the first thing to do is to check continuity through the high/low beam switch. If it is not working properly, consider contacting Dave Irwin (aka Zs-Ondabrain) about cleaning/repair.

Jamie You've probably already cleaned the latch assembly. I cleaned mine a couple of years ago and sprayed them with white spray grease. They work almost like as they did from the factory.

You can also contact Moderator Mike about buying a CD copy of the microfiche that is searchable.

The FSM has wiring diagrams that include origin, destination and connector locations.

The old "pull the cable off of the battery" trick is overrated and not wise IMHO. Do you have a picture of the relay that was around the steering column? I don't recall a stock relay being there. Be sure to download a copy of the FSM. The BE section is invaluable for finding wiring issues. If you understand how to read it, you can locate most any electrical component easily. So many potential issues here...First thing is sounds like is that a PO jacked with the wiring. That can be difficult to diagnose & repair. Isolate all of the problems and investigate them individually. If I wasn't working too much, I would post more help.

Why are they "no good"? Pictures would help. Door panels do show up on eBay.

I think a bigger issue might be replacing the rubber parts in the fuel system to those that can tolerate a higher alcohol content. Isn't there a rubber diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump?

First, inspect the ground wires around the steering column. After eliminating the ground as an issue, work your way though the different circuits one at a time with a voltmeter. Do that with the headlights off and on. I still think it's a bad ground somewhere.

See post #23 in this thread.

Eiji is also an active and respected member of the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia. Though I haven't purchased anything from him. I would if he had a part or service I needed.

Until I start reverting to my curmudgeonly attitude. Thanks for the compliment, Phil. Of course, in this case, an expert is someone who has made plenty of mistakes and has learned enough from them that the frequency of repeating said mistakes has dropped significantly.

To be perfectly clear, I didn't respond to that part of the thread. My earlier responses were that you had both internal and external regulators. The only time I ever had both regulators at play was about 11 years ago. I replaced the alternator in my 73 and while testing the addition of relays to the headlights, one of the headlights burned out. I checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was 17 VDC, so I quickly shut the car down and started researching the issue online. I quickly realized that I had an internally regulated alternator, so I followed directions online and jumpered out the circuit for the external regulator. I never at any time experimented with running the car with just the external regulator unplugged.

Yes. No. You can find out by measuring about 17 or 18 volts at the battery with the car running. Yes. We told you that before.

If the running lights are fine, then it is unlikely the combo switch. The gauge lights and running lights both come off of the green/white wire from the combo switch. It has to be downstream of that, either at a connector, the rheostat or the ground coming off of the rheostat.

Do your running lights come on? If not, it's a fuse, combo switch or connector. If the running lights come on, try the rheostat.

Rumors have been going around for a while...http://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2011/07/is-datsun-name-being-revived/

Well, the click you hear is the fuel pump relay. Hopefully I can have a chance to review the 73 wiring diagram and come up with some solutions for you. Don't expect any answers before you wake up on Saturday.

Suggestion - (Assuming this bolt isn't reverse threaded...) When you go to drill it out, use a left-handed drill bit. It may catch and turn the broken bolt, allowing it to come out.

I can't help you on oil pump selection. For searching, let Google do the walking. Use this text in the dialog box for the search on Google: "oil pump" site:classiczcars.com Here is what I got from that search.