SteveJ

For the wiring harness, you could try ZCarSource. They aren't cheap, but they probably have one.

Mike, the owner, has an amazing shop. I visited there once. I don't think he's the right person to do the work, but he probably knows a body man who could do the work.

No ammeter = no alternator. That's probably the most critical. I'm at work, so I don't have my wiring diagrams to see exactly where the ammeter breaks the charging circuit. On a 240Z, you can't start the car without the ammeter (or shunt in its place). You can jury-rig almost anything electrical. Believe me, I have seen it while combing through my Z cars. Of course, if you don't do it right, you probably won't have to worry too much about your dash due to the electrical fire. Frankly, I wouldn't think it would be prudent to drive around much with gauges, anyway.

And let's not forget the importance of punctuation. "Let's eat, Grandpa." That is a statement that might come from a loving family member. "Let's eat Grandpa." That is a statement that might come from depraved cannibal.

I have a similar issue, and water drips from under my dash on my legs and on my ecu, where are the driprails? The driprails are on each side of the roof, right over the doors.

Here's one.

Thanks for the link. I always welcome history lessons, especially about WWII.

True. I think when most people consider replacing the fusebox, they are talking about the "Painless" kits. For a stock replacement, your only choice is used, such as from ZCarSource.

What is the minimum number of gridlines that Frostfighters will support? Three seems kind of low at first blush. If you lose one gridline, the current through the other 2 will go up significantly.

Two voltage regulators causes BAD things to happen. Download the factory service manual for your car. (Find the link in my signature.) Then you can look things up instead of relying upon hearsay. There is enough bad information floating around online that it is in your best interest to have the definitive repair manual on hand.

Search on this site. Somewhere someone posted a colorized diagram of the 78 fusebox. By the way, it is a good idea to put the year/model of your car in your signature. If you look at the submenu, you'll see Forum Actions. Click on that, and then click on Edit Profile. Then look on the left side of the screen for My Settings and find Edit Signature.

LEDs. You can remove the bulbs inside the instruments and use whatever color LED light you like.

Phil, you might think you're proving that Canadians are tougher by working on cars outside in the winter, but Americans are just smart enough to do maintenance in their garages.

I found that many people aren't able to go or don't want to go to the regular meetings. I go to the meetings except when I'm out of town on business. By the way, Caffeine & Octane might be another opportunity to meet up.

I bought a bunch of Home Depot unassembled cabinets when I was moving into my current home, along with an 8 foot countertop. It works well for me.

I could be up for that some time.

I'm glad I could contribute to the cause. One man's trash is another man's treasure.

Or get a CO analyzer. The advantages are not having to weld a bung to the exhaust, the ability to use it on more than one car, and the meter is integrated with the sensor. The advantage of the oxygen sensor is that you can easily get readings under load with datalogging tools, such as an oscilloscope.

Alignment, inflation of tires, short-shifting (aka granny shifting), easy on & off the gas. Check your mileage after that. If you want to go deeper, research using a carbon monoxide meter to tune. All other factors being held constant, minimize CO = better fuel mileage.

You'll have to provide a LOT more information than that. Did the starter turn? Did you check for spark? Will the car start with starting fluid? Does your battery voltage drop significantly when you try to start the car, etc., etc., etc.

You don't have a charge lamp. If the ammeter is pointing to the negative, that is the same as the charge lamp.

Carl, I haven't contacted Frostfighter myself, but I would speculate that the issue is too little resistance. The current flow through the grid is inversely proportional to the width, left to right (on a typical setup) and proportional to the number of elements. When I measured the rear window, I measured left to right, not thinking that with the 1970, you might want to go top to bottom. You might want to take some measurements and contact them. They can probably give you a rule of thumb about current flow through the grid.

Wouldn't that be like Toyota/Scion? They design a car they think will lure in the younger generation, and a bunch of us old farts want to buy it.

Carl, did you ask Frost Fighter about the minimum width of the grid? Their FAQ lists 38 inches, and our cars have a rear window that is not that wide.

I showed pictures to my wife. She and I both like it. However, I just bought a V-6 Mustang this spring as a commuter car, so I won't be in the market for a new car any time soon. It's the first Toyota that I would really want since the last Supra.