SteveJ

The advantage of the internally regulated alternator is that it has a higher output.

I have one for each of my Zs, but I haven't installed them, yet.

It most likely doesn't matter. The Wesco belt retractor doesn't sit in the pocket.

I agree with Leon. Start with the grounds around the steering column. Also, find a copy of the wiring diagram. Look for any black wires (with no stripes). They are marked with just a B in the wiring diagram. One or more have lost contact with a component or with the chasis.

Go to Zhome.com and look at the link on inspecting a Z car before buying it. The pictures you show don't give much detail, especially with regard to the rust-prone areas. My philosphy is get the best body car you can afford. You can always get a new drivetrain.

If you can use a multimeter, I should be able to help you, but not until I return home.

Sorry, I don't have a picture handy. I might be able to post one in the near future if I manage to remember it.

Depending upon the loading of the engine, the injector duty cycles are the first thing that come to mind. I can't think of what else off the top of my head.

I used a spacer. It works fine for me.

With no pictures, you'll just get random guesses.

Either your voltmeter is wrong or you still have a problem with your charging system. By the way, what do you mean that you have a fan & a water pump hooked up at the ballast resistor? What current are they rated for? If you are drawing too much current through the ignition, you could heat up the switch. Auxiliary items such as electric fans for cooling the radiator should not be powered through existing circuits since they could potentially overload those circuits.

Okay, go to the EE section that describes the charging system. Since you're a novice, you might need to read this: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Multimeter. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/alternator.htm Note that alternator output is proportional to engine speed. Quite a few "mechanics" today rely upon the car to diagnose itself. If the car's computer gives code X, replace part Y. If the car had X number of miles, replace these parts.

What year? The wiring is slightly different depending upon the year. Anyway, use a voltmeter to see if you have voltage along the circuit. You can find wiring diagrams at xenonS30.com. There is a good chance you haven't reconnected your grounds. (That's my first guess.)

That would be good for a short distance until the battery goes dead.

You won't get much of any answers until you come back with more data. First, download a copy of the FSM for your car. The link is in my signature. Test your electrical system with a meter per the FSM and let us know the results.

No. They are completely different. Any hatch from a non-2+2 S30 would work, though you would want to avoid one with hatch vents.

Even better: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html. Pay attention to the part about the diode.

No, the relay doesn't do anything anymore. I didn't dig into the EF section to see function of the servo that the solenoid actuated, but I can say with a high degree of confidence that the triple Webers don't need that functionality.

There is no mention of the relay or solenoid in the BE or EF sections of the 72 FSM.

The 76 belts are completely different. I don't know when I might have time to root around in the garage. I think I might have the 73 belts, still. As Jim said, it's not very wise to trust 40 year old seat belts. I would get them re-webbed. Seat belts work in part by stretching some. The 40 year old material doesn't have much stretch left. Frankly, I went with seat belts from WESCO. I have made a lot of posts about seat belts. The WESCO seat belts are much more user friendly.

Nice, Jamie. I'm glad you went the extra step there. I'm anxious to see it finished.

According to the BE section of the FSM, that is the Throttle Opener Relay. The coil looks to be energized at startup. It activates a solenoid. You can find a diagram with the solenoid on page EF-10 in the FSM. If the carbs have been swapped out, I would guess that the solenoid may be long gone.

Are you thinking it's the vacuum bottle for the AC at play here?

One of the best ways to do this is to rotate the engine to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing. If the timing is properly advanced, the rotor will be a few degrees past #1 on the cap.

You are correct. It was supposed to be a 4 banger. Nissan sent out a survey to Z owners. I know I panned the concept for the 4 cylinder engine and poor styling of the rear of the car.