SteveJ

While this wikipedia article doesn't explicitly explain the differences in the S30 bumpers, it does give some background on why.

Brackets are available. I believe Eiji Hosomi sells them. His website is Datsun Spirit. He doesn't list them on the site, so you'll need to email him.

You could try calling Roger at Zbarn to see if he has any good ones that would work for you. Either a 77 or 78 tank should work.

That's okay. If you had shopped with ZCarSource before, you'd know that $50 for a tank would be WAY below what they normally charge for parts.

I'm not sure where you're getting $50 from. The core charges are on top of the price of the tank.

Black is definitely negative.

Standard responses: Check fusible links. (Remember to remove them from the circuit & check for continuity.) Grounds, grounds, grounds. Non-standard: Did you follow someone's writeup on the swap or did you wing it? If it's the former, provide a link so we can see what the person/people wrote. What electrical connections did you disconnect when you did the swap? Did you inspect those? How about the wire for the neutral sensor? Is it bypassed properly?

Let's ask the obvious question, first. Did you call MSA and ask?

Hey, I haven't introduced myself, either. I'm trying to get to 2000 posts or so. Then maybe I won't sound so much like a newbie.

I read that the BMW 1600 gas cap would work. I bought one, but it didn't fit. I haven't heard of any other alternatives.

When they said you couldn't leave until the day was done, I opted not to go to the track day. I didn't feel like sitting out there in the heat.

If you can't find stock or wait for stock, there is always McMaster Carr

It is good to replace the master & slave together. Remember that the master is probably at least as old as the slave.

Magnetic sweepers are great for resolving those issues with steel fasteners/washers.

The easiest thing to check, as mentioned in the first response, is the hydraulic part of the clutch. Is the reservoir full? Are there signs of leakage around the slave cylinder? Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM to see the factory troubleshooting guides? (Many questions on this board could be answered just by reading those.) Since the car is new to you, I would not be surprised to find the slave cylinder on the clutch is old and is in need of replacement. It's a relatively easy job, and conventional wisdom suggests replacing the master & slave as a pair. The trickiest part is getting things lined up with the clevis pin and clutch pedal, and even that isn't too difficult.

On the other hand, flat tops done right give very good performance and reliability. If they are there and working, focus on lots of other things (rotting rubber, etc.) before dropping a few hundred to replace a working component. Captain Obvious, are you ready to share what you've learned about the flat tops, yet?

These can work pretty well to find out where a wire is going to.

Is there any chance you can trace out where the other end of the mystery wire goes to? Did the 71 ever have a speaker in the back?

Just go to Espirit's website. His parts aren't cheap (This isn't a complaint. This is just a warning about potential sticker shock.), but he's got plenty of things you can't find anywhere else (since he goes the extra mile to get reproductions done that no one else will try to source). In this case, the brake cable is here. I've made a purchase from him in the past. No problems. I don't recall anybody else complaining about a transaction with him, either.

I think that matches up to what Philip posted.

Philip, look at the upper right hand of the wiring diagram from the supplement. I'm not sure what Step L really is, but it has that wire color combo.

That helps. The white/red wire is for the seatbelt warning timer unit.

Pictures are good. Pictures with a description of where they are in a car are even better. For example, I don't have a 280Z, so I have to rely on the FSM to give you suggestions. The terminal on the ignition relay is for a ground. It is a good chance that the white/red wire is for the headlights. Knowing where the wire resides under your dash would help to confirm. Edit: How did you check your fusible links? The correct way is to remove them carefully and do continuity checks.

First, make sure you have the polarity correct on the battery. The positive should go to the starter. Second, check your fusible links. After that, purchase a multimeter and learn how to use it. That way, if you need to do more advanced diagnostics, we can give you better suggestions, and you can give us better feedback. Edit: I forgot to mention that a factory service manual (FSM) is your best repair guide.

Philip, where are these wires relative to the body of the car?