SteveJ

It's a closed trailer, but it's also $24K.

The worst case scenario is that you'll get a follow-up message from them a couple of days later saying it's not available.

I wasn't able to find one with a quick search, but you might look at motorcycle parts as a potential source. Edit: Upon further review, changing my search to headlight rubber uncovered this item on eBay. It's a Datsun part, too. Try searching for the part number and see if Courtesy or NissanPartsCC might have it.

Search for stuck drum here. There are plenty of threads on the subject.

It's not bad if you get a full face cover, and it's a lot cheaper than a new dash.

You could try graphite powder.

Pete, Rebuild it or not, if you're going to do it in your garage, don't forget that I have a crane.

Another way to do this is to jack up the suspension on the wheel you are working on while the car is on jack stands. IIRC, that is how I did it about 14 years ago.

Come on. I think we need at least 2 more threads on this.

Why not find some early SU carburetors? Contact Bruce Palmer via PM or go to Z Therapy. The side draft carburetors offer about the best performance for the Z.

If it's just a slight leak, why not get it fixed. You could always contact Les Cannaday to see where he sourced his radiators from 16 years ago when he did the work for Nissan. He is a member here under the user name CDM. You could send him a PM.

Yes, they will pop apart.

The short answer is "No." I gave you direction on where to find a service manual and a wiring diagram. I also directed your attention to a likely location for your problem. However, instead of trying what I suggested and coming back with more questions based upon what you found out, you just asked for spoonfeeding. This forum is for Z car enthusiasts, and we help one another. However, we do expect the person asking for help to make an honest effort and be a working partner in the solution. You say you just want to sell your Z car. What is my incentive to assist you? You haven't offered me any compensation for my time and effort. You say it's a chore for you to fix the problem. It's just as much of a chore to decifer half of what you write.

Vintage Connections is an excellent source for a lot of our connectors. However, I don't think he carries molex connectors.

Phil is Canadian. It's in his nature to apologize whether or not there is a reason. I even saw a news story about that on CBC when I was doing some work near Toronto.

That reading sounds right. It would be 2,960 Ohms.

The senders are available via eBay & MSA. However, they are essentially a potentiometer. Unless you took out the sender, there is little chance of breaking it, though they can wear from the float going up and down. What exactly did you mess with? Search around here. I know I've posted on how the fuel gauge circuit works. It's pretty simple.

First, I suggest getting a new fusebox. MSA sells a drop-in replacement. It isn't cheap, though. The intermittent wiper relay is in the passenger footwell. Download a copy of the FSM (link below) and look in section BE. Don't rule out the combo switch and all of the corrosion in the connectors as being possible culprits, too. Your best bet is to study the wiring diagram and start attacking the circuit with a multimeter.

Considering the OP said the lights & voltmeter came on when he tried to start the car, I feel pretty confident that there are electrical issues at play as a primary or secondary issue. I'm curious about how he answers my questions back to him.

You haven't supplied enough data to speculate. Was anything like this happening before you made any repairs, such as any other electrical problems? What all did you replace with the fuel system? Did you connect the battery properly after replacing the starter? How long have you had the car? Did you or a previous owner attempt any electrical repairs? General problem descriptions tend to get general responses. Detailed descriptoins will yield better results. If the wiring hasn't been hacked, you may want to look for wire damage in the steering column, especially if anybody ever tried to hotwire the car.

The fusible links are under the hood. Download a copy of the FSM from the link below. Also get a copy of the wiring diagram from Blue's tech tips. I have a strong suspicion that there is a lot more going on than a bad fusible link.

I've seen it on MSA & eBay. Maybe even Nissan still carries it.

Apparently he bought (or still buys) parts from Nissan and tries to sell them on eBay for a large markup. Save your money and look elsewhere. A better investment is to buy the parts fiche CD from this site and contact your local Nissan dealer or one of the dealers that sell parts online (like Courtesy Nissan in Texas).

It's not complicated. It's just time consuming. I think I recall the order correctly. Make sure you drain the tank well. Remove the wires for the sender. (You may want to get a new O-ring & locking tab for the sender in case you need them.) Support the tank. (I prefer to use a floor jack.) Take off the straps and lower the tank. Detatch all of the vent hoses, the filler hose & fuel lines. Remove the tank.

Since air conditioning wasn't from the factory, installations will vary. Please post pictures so we can see what the interference is like. Also, where is your fuel pump leaking? In my limited experience with the mechanical fuel pump, I've only heard of the diaphragm leaking, and that fuel would go into the oil. Could you have a hose going bad instead?