SteveJ

The three wire distributor is for a dual pickup...for an automatic transmission 260Z. In theory, the OP could cut the plug off his wiring harness and off the new distributor to wire them correctly. I wasn't sure if he wanted to cut connectors off. Finding the common wire isn't difficult. Finding the wire that goes to the correct pickup is more of a challenge. There is no place to put a meter probe to find out, so you have to trace the wire by hand. Here's a photo of a dual pickup distributor. I did some examination of this distributor and it looks like the female terminal by my thumb is for the pickup closest to the vacuum advance.

FYI: Here is a listing for a manual transmission distributor. It says "Not in Stock". I don't know if that means they can or cannot get it. Some of us tried to order windshields through Summit a couple of years ago, and that turned out to be vaporware. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-31-615/make/nissan/model/260z/year/1974

The 3-wire plug is for an automatic. The bullet size is different from pretty much all of the other bullets I have in my collection, too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324721775605?hash=item4b9aed13f5%3Ag%3APRUAAOSw1-Jg9zYr&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500 The seller is probably looking to take advantage of the hype. Supposedly only 15K miles. Car has been sitting for 34 years, and has the "California rust" on the hatch sill. It might be a good restoration candidate.

One tip I have used for breaking loose bolts: Before you try to loosen it, torque it slightly tighter. This may give you a little wiggle room to get it started turning the correct direction to loosen it. This actually worked for one screw when I was trying to remove the grille. Don't forget that heat can be your friend. Sometimes a heat gun is enough.

If you have a similar issue, you may just want to create a new thread.

Kroil is one of the best commercially available penetrating oils. You can get it as a spray or liquid in a can.

It's doubtful. You'd have to find people at the DMV willing to research the title, and if it changed states, that means working with another DMV (or several) to research the title. That's providing they would even do such a task.

I did this drawing several years ago to address some of the confusion on the turn signal/hazard light/brake light circuit. While it is specific for the 72, the 70 should be pretty close. Some of the connectors may be different. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

Um, he didn't say he was the first owner, so what he said was correct from an English grammar standpoint. He was saying he owned it 43 years. Was there a point to your reply?

I looked in the AC section of the 74 FSM. It says that the switch is a high pressure switch. I wouldn't be surprised if Amazon doesn't have a high pressure switch (or high/low pressure switch) somewhere that has the same threads as the switch Jim used.

Try Nostalgic AC. https://nostalgicac.com/driers-valves/driers.html

It's good you didn't go with the rubber strips. Today I was tightening/replacing hardware on the rubber strips. I'm glad I have the portacool in the garage when I want to work on the car this time of year.

If it's not the coil, consider going from the Crane to the Pertronix. It's stupid simple to install the Pertronix.

I would not use a 0.4 ohm coil unless you are keeping the ballast resistor. I wouldn't go below 1 ohm unless you are keeping the ballast resistor. I was suggesting the 3 ohm down to 1 ohm since it sounded like @7tooZwas planning on jumpering out the resistor. Using a 0.6 ohm coil with no resistor would mean about 20A current through a 14 gauge wire.

You might see better performance with the 1.5, but the 3 should work. The spark may be a little weaker.

I was worried about the tach performance with a 1 ohm coil. This morning I installed a Pertronix with a 1 ohm coil into a car and bypassed the ballast. The tachometer appeared to be functioning correctly. @7tooZ - You could go with a Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil (40011 or 40111) or MSD 82023 coil. It looks like you can bypass the ballast resistor with no ill effects, too.

And here's a video from walking around the lot at the same meet.

Pertronix Flamethrower 3.0 Ohm coil...You can get it in oil-filled or epoxy.

Are you still using the ballast resistor?

I didn't say there was a list. I said it is all laid out. The list I gave was from looking at the page in the BE section for the voltmeter and going back to the wiring diagram to identify all of the branch circuits. The power for the hazard lights does not come off the same fuse as the voltmeter unless someone changed how your car is wired.

Many coils are oil filled for the heat dissipation media. You may see residue around the center post of the coil. Some auto manufacturers did vertical mounting of the coil to reduce the chance of losing the oil. However, the oil will break down as it ages, providing less heat removal.

Well, it's laid out in the wiring diagram with more detail in the BE section of the FSM. For the fuse that is for the voltmeter, you also have Brake Warning Lamp Check Relay Turn Signals (passing through the Hazard Switch) Seat Belt Warning Timer Unit Fuel Level Warning Lamp Backup Lamp Switch (Manual Transmission) Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission)

The coil is a step-up transformer. It is composed primarily of wire, insulation, and material to help dissipate heat. If the insulation breaks down, you would see a weaker spark or no spark. Are you having a problem with your car? If so describe when it started and under what conditions.

I took the Z to our local "Worship" car meet. When the local Cars and Coffee (known as Caffeine and Octane here) got too big, some people started a smaller show for the same time slot that attracts more of a "car people" crowd. Anyway, there were 8 S30s there with the 280Z being the most prevalent. I got to see @jonathanrussellfor the first time in about 4 years, too.