SteveJ

We could always just use a larger font to reply to you. I feel like I'm talking to an old man. 😉 Note, that the default font size is 8 point. @MikeSo many of us here are old farts, can you make the default font size 12 or 14?

From the factory it started with the 74. The factory had a retrofit kit for the 73 that has the same design for the electric fuel pump...for the same problem (vapor lock). That kit was also when wrapping the fuel rail started, and that's genuine asbestos on the fuel rail, too. You have presumed much, but what have you diagnosed? What is the fuel pressure? Have you inspected ALL of the fuel hoses from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump? What is the condition of the fuel filter? If you haven't found the electric fuel pump, you probably haven't found the filter. As for the electric fuel pump, is the wiring intact? Is the pump still installed? Are the relays working? If it's a bad relay, it's a much cheaper fix than replacing the fuel pump and then realizing you need to replace one (or both) of the relays. It's easy to throw parts at a problem, and it's easy to get frustrated when you realize you have spent a fair amount of money without solving the problem. I ask a lot of questions and tell you to read the FSM because I want you to fix the car right and as cheaply as possible. You have better things to do with your money than waste it on a wild goose chase. Pay attention to the questions and post answers. If you don't understand the question or how to get the information to answer the question, ask. Just put some effort into it. You'll learn a lot, and you'll get a lot of help.

It should run without the pump working. Lord knows my 73 did (ran until parked...). However, that is only if the rest of the fuel system is fine. Symptoms of the bad pump could be low fuel pressure or hard starting when the car is hot (vapor lock). It's not that hard to change, but you better have something to clamp off the line. It might be better to diagnose the system than just throwing parts at it. Maybe even bench test the old fuel pump. Here's what it looks like: https://www.google.com/search?q=260z+electric+fuel+pump&sxsrf=ALeKk00okqF6AEt_qSB308PAhruYMtew0Q:1622676245782&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiQ9tuJjPrwAhUvU98KHePYB-UQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1920&bih=880 Of course, if the fuel lines back there are old, expect to have to replace them. The stock hoses were formed hoses so you have to get some 5/16 metal elbows with extra hose clamps or have long lazy bends to prevent cutting off fuel because the hoses are kinked.

Did you think I would steer you wrong? I think Tony D was posting about the VW fuel injection relay over at Zcar.com back around the turn of the century. I'm a vast repository of useless trivia, but sometimes some useful information sticks, too.

Um, yeah. I said that a couple of times about the vent line. Find the electric fuel pump...https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

Post a photo of your brake booster. According to the parts fiche, your booster should be like the 240Z/260Z booster if your car is not a 2+2. part # model applied date qty interchange superceded from to newer former ASSY-MASTER VAC 6INC 47210-E4600 7105 1 47210-E4601 7106 7108 1 47210-E4600 47210-E8700 7109 7206 1 No No 47210-E4601 ASSY-MASTER VAC 7 1/ 47210-N3001 1 Yes Yes 47210-N3000 47210-N3000 7207 7507 1 No No 47210-E8700 The 280Z booster is on the left. The earlier booster is on the right.

Not if it's stock. Like I said, download the factory service manual and read sections EF and FE.

I'm not sure what your question is. Why couldn't it have a mechanical and electrical fuel pump?

You have a return line. I see a hose attached to it. Like I said before, the capped off line is a vent line for evaporative emissions. If the car is in stock configuration, it has both a mechanical and an electrical fuel pump. Download a copy of the FSM. The link is in my signature. (Hopefully you're not using a phone for this site. You miss out on some good features.) The EF and FE sections have a lot of information on the fuel system in your car. In the meantime, you may want to start tracking down answers to my questions, or pose some questions in response to help bridge the gaps in your knowledge. Continue to figure out what the previous owner(s) changed and document it. Then you can figure out how to make it work right again.

Actually, the red cap is blocking off the vent line. That should go to the carbon cannister The middle line is the return. When is the car sputtering? How have you ascertained there is no fuel flow? Have you put a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel rail and one of the carburetors? How old are the fuel lines? Is the electric fuel pump running? Is the electric fuel pump installed? What is the condition of the fuel filter?

Welcome to the club. We tend to look smarter after we get done wasting our time on dumb things. And thank you for providing your solution. You might be helping someone else in the future.

I marked the TIU. Make sure it is unplugged. The resistor is wrapped in tape. It should be on a blue wire on the engine harness side of the C4 connector. Depending upon how the MSD ignition was wired into the car, that could be affecting your tach signal, too. If you haven't done so already, visit the Resources section of this website and find the factory service manual for the 260Z. (Hint - Look at my signature for a shortcut.) It can help you a lot. For instance, the tachometer wiring schematic can be found on page BE-33.

Considering the 260Z has a Transistor Ignition Unit (TIU), I would call an MSD-6A a change from stock. Is the car running right? If not, that could mean the TIU was not unplugged. That could mess with the tach, too. By the way, a friend got his 260Z tach serviced by Bob's Speedometer (https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/), and he was pleased with how the tach operated after that.

The 260Z tach is essentially the same as the 280Z tach, including the wiring. Don't forget to check the resistor in the circuit. It's over in the passenger footwell area.

Exactly...

IIRC, it's squeeze on the sides and pull.

Well, the intent was to test the EFI relay. Do you happen to have one of those that match the ones earlier in this thread?

Exactly. Does anybody have a spare Bosch relay they want to send me for testing?

The chances are that if it is in the Nissan relay, you'll find it in the Bosch relay since the Nissan system is a licensed copy of the Bosch.

Search for ba9s socket. It looks like the Autometer 2359 socket might work. This may also be a good time to consider changing to LED bulbs to get more light to drive at night.

I can't tell you about warranty, but I've had the Harrington bumpers on my 260Z for around 7 years now. I would suggest going without the rubber strips. I had to fab the front brackets myself for the 260Z, but the rear brackets came from Datsun Spirit. I had to slot them a little for the 260Z.

Try using some starting fluid to get the car to fire.

IIRC, the bulbs in the 240Z ground to the gauge housings. Make sure the contact surface between the gauge and socket are clean, and make sure the gauges are secured tightly to the dash with no corrosion. Finally make sure the dash is secured tightly to the body of the car also with no corrosion in the contact surface.

Here's a rumor about when Nissan will start taking money/commitments... https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-order-books-open-november-15th.406/?fbclid=IwAR0k2V5ggZeZ5ihwHL3M0T13XX11mghp1Fhekem8wsLwgEds6q61eb1vVSQ

NW Pennsyltucky is more like Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Erie or Buffalo. That would be quite a trek for the Captain. @GoldAirWith living in the land that rust forgot (for the most part), why are you considering a Z from the land where rust never sleeps?