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Everything posted by Darrel

  1. Harbor freight furniture dolly(the bigger one), Then build it up with the 2x4 etc.
  2. shade tree short throw shifter.
  3. Go to your nearest tire shop make sure your tires on the tow vehicle are set to max or close to it. Don't try those coin operated compressors or you will be spending at least $5 and take forever to air up your tires. If your receiver hitch is straight then you should be good. If it has an angle to it then make sure the ball will be at the highest point. I helped Lonetree steve pick up a 240 earlier this year in Cheyenne, we came up from denver. He had a suburban and low tire pressure. The hitch was mounted low and barely cleared some of the roads. That was a long night just to get it loaded with a couple of flat tires. Used a come along and also had to raise the front of the trailer to get the 240 to clear the back end of the trailer. That due to the flat tire on the 240. I picked up a 620 pu, that was in grand junction. It towed fine, ran into a little snow on a couple of the mountain passes.
  4. Check fluid levels first then the clutch slave and master.
  5. If the switch got hot, then also check the fuse block, in particular the parking light fuse area. The old fuse blocks are riveted together and cause a lot of resistance making the wires hot. David Irwin(zondabrain) designed and makes the headlight harness and parking light harness and sells to MSA. Buy both the headlight harness and parking light harness. I prefer to deal directly with Dave.
  6. With patton you can buy their whole kit(they out source the ecu, programming etc) or if you are familiar with megasquirt you can make up your own system and just buy the adapters. A friend bought the system for his 510.
  7. Patton makes efi adapters for SU carbs. Not sure which he makes, 3 screw or 4 screw, maybe both by now. http://pattonmachine.com
  8. auto zone had one with a cast impeller.
  9. I helped lonetreesteve pick up a 240z earlier this year. Nose first, the standard straps on the haul trailer are fine. There should be a single chain at the rear of the trailer you can loop around one of the rear lower control arms. Just to be safe you can get a couple of straps to keep everything honest at the back end. Make sure the receiver hitch and ball are oriented the correct way to keep the nose of the trailer from dropping down too much. Steve's suburban had the ball mounted low and there was only a couple of inches from hitting the ground with the weight of the car on it. Make sure your tires on the tow vehicle are inflated properly. max pressure. Take to a real tire store. The coin operated ones at convenience stores are expensive, that is when you can find one that even works. Low tire pressure and the combo will wander all over.
  10. He already said never mind. Bitch!
  11. It is that part that causes so many problems in getting the spindle pin out. When at the factory, they torque it down so much that the lock pin deforms the spindle pin at either side of the indent. With mine I can easily remove and replace the pin without destroying the spindle pin. You can always use washers as spacers to center the pin, then remove the washers and torque the nut like normal.
  12. Don't drive at night, but if you have to you can take the fuse block out and soak in vinegar and rinse off to keep it from building up corrosion. The fuse block contacts are riveted and can build up causing a lot of resistance.
  13. electrical-- See datsundave/ David Irwin for the parking light and headlight harness relay kits. It will save your fuse block and combo switch. He also has a couple of other bits, front side marker to turn indicator conversion. All of these are plug and play, no modifications to original wiring or connectors. I had the deposits at the thermostat housing and water outlet too on a car that sat for 30 years. Like you, I flushed it out and ran clear. Maybe the rubber, aluminum and antifreeze reacted together. I would say that is a $30K car now, except for the back carpeting. ;-)
  14. Ready for the show and shine on sunday at Boulder Nissan?
  15. was this a daily driver, what kind of insurance did you have?
  16. I have installed a few of these. A couple of the tech versions on a '73 and a '71. And a RT mount made by roost monkey on my '73. The RT by roostmonkey bolted right in. The ones made by tech, I had to widen one of the bolt holes enough to get it to bolt in. The RT mount by RM, didn't have the bend for the brake lines. It cleared fine just the way it was.
  17. Easy choice. 4 post lift, or 3.
  18. The turbos came stock with a 3.54.
  19. If you have to pump your brakes, make sure the rears are adjusted properly. Adjusting them by only using the e brake won't adjust them to where they need to be.
  20. what does the back of the fuse block look like? I'm not familiar with 260z if they are like the 240 or 280z.
  21. A z friend on FB sent me the link(12:50pm mst). I knew Steve would be interested in a '70. i went him the link and also one on a local message board. Looks like it's been resprayed looking at the door plate. Still curious on who picked it up.
  22. I connect clear tubing to the bottom of the float bowl, use a remote starter with plugs out to get the float bowl filled up. Empty the bowl and hose between each adjustment. rinse repeat until level is where you want it. Do the same with other carb. I can get them within 1mm of each other. On the three screw carbs, I will put a longer fuel hose from the fuel rail to the float bowl lid so you can twist the lid clear when taking it off. The four screw carbs can be done using the stock length hose from the fuel rail since the lid just lifts straight off.
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