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About Tomcat

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Gender
  • Map Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
  • Occupation
    IT Technician

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About my Cars
    She is a 71 "driver" mostly original except she was painted red over the original yellow. Not a quality paint job ... single stage. But it's so imperfect I don't mind driving her ... even in the rain.

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  1. Hi, I need the original Nikki fuel pump and of course the am radio.
  2. @siteunseen Hi, I sent him a message. --Thomas
  3. Thank you EhlersRS/Robert S. I would appreciate your help every so often because sometimes I don't know what is correct for my car ... what is original, added, changed or missing. Mine is -23692 originally yellow but painted red. The only rust I've found so far is a dime-sized hole under the battery tray. --Thomas
  4. My car is a 2/71 production date. I have my heat/vent control system apart because the levers were either hard to move or wouldn't move at all. I have cleaned and greased the cables and getting ready to reassemble everything. I found a period correct AM radio and am installing it as well. My question is what, if anything, attaches or mounts to the two holes in the attached photo. The holes are threaded. Thanks for any info, --Thomas
  5. ajmcforester, I hope you don't mind me reopening such an old thread. I am trying to repair/replace the antenna on my 2/71 240Z. My question is how does the line attach to the mast? As you can see from the picture, they were separated so that the mast would go up but not always down. Also, the tip is broken off so it may not even be worth the effort to repair it. I've seen two styles of tips ... a blunt tip and a pointed tip. If I have to look for a replacement, which style is correct for the motor I have marked "Harada 6424"? Thank you, --Thomas
  6. Thanks to both of you. I'll hunt down some wire and give it a try.
  7. Thanks Namerow. I never even thought of making my own. Do you mind adding a picture so I have something to shoot for? ... or, if someone else here has an original one they could photograph next to a ruler. --Thomas
  8. I need the lid spring for the ash tray out of a 2/71 production 240Z. It's the plastic ash tray that covers the fuse panel. Thanks, --Thomas
  9. I'm trying to get back to the correct parts on a 2/71 production date 240Z ... are these below stock or have they been replaced? I have run across some things that appear to be series 1 ... maybe leftovers as 2/71 was the first month of series 2, right? Also, I've never seen the stickers like there are on the window ... they look like they say "Japan" in white with a faded red background and a faded red circle (Japanese flag?) Thanks for any help. --Thomas
  10. I really hate that for you. There are a lot of variables at play here ... What year? Numbers-matching? 1-owner? 2-owner? What's original and what's not? Any prior body work? Original paint or respray? Everything there? Documentation? I'd insist on meeting the appraiser at the car with the answers to these questions and I'd say things like "You know it's going to be impossible for me to find another 46 year old car just exactly like this one ... orange ... I only like the orange ones ... and in this good of shape ... especially with just 46,000 original miles!", "My daughter was born in this car.", whatever ... just don't use the word rust or even admit the car has any. If I assume the whole car is as nice as the exterior "before" picture you posted and it was a 71-72 without the rust, I would be looking for them to pay me $20K for the car plus $2K expenses for me to find one ... probably in California ... and get it shipped home plus $2K "pain and suffering" because the car is 'my baby' ... so, $24K ... I'd round up to $25K. I wouldn't tell them all that, I'd just say I can't replace it for anything less than $25K. It's so easy to find comparable cars on the interwebs at that price or higher. I'd also be happy with $23K and the car, but I would not keep the car. Instead I would part it out or sell it whole to my Z friends and pocket the cash the scrap man would have made. You might not wan't to fool with it. At $25K I think most insurance companies want to settle and be done with you. You're insurance can also work on your behalf, but that would be my absolute last resort ... they will co-conspire to give you the driveshaft. It's a flippin 240Z man ... they owe you!
  11. @9teen7t240z I think your reserve is a tad high. You'd be smart for to change the format to "Buy it Now" at $15,101.00
  12. XXX Beautiful!!! Can I assume a complete and stock interior (uncracked dash, AM radio, ash tray, coin tray, etc.) as nice as the rest of the car? No rust or body work ever? If so, and you had a picture or two of a nice underbody I'll say $27,916.43 unless it's stolen between now and then. BTW, what's your street address? Revised 8/19/16: $27,816.43 ... looks like the antenna button is missing.
  13. Thanks guys, I was really asking about the materials and supplier but reading through @Hardway 's "how-to" he said he would go with Classic Datsun's covers in a do-over ... but you did save me having to post a second thread in a few weeks saying "So, I bought kits to redo my seats but how do you do it?" --Thomas p.s. I did search before asking, just not thoroughly ... I should have used "classic datsun" in quotes ... duhh.
  14. I need to rebuild both seats. Please let me know if you have done business with http://www.classicdatsun.com/ It looks like if I buy the upholstery kits and new foam together it is $405 for both seats ... $ 90 cheaper than the Z store (and the site says they are the same kit). I'm not looking to go crazy ... just something as good or maybe a little better than the originals. Also, if there's a better solution for redoing the strapping underneath the seat bottom than the kit at http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2690 please let me know. Finally, I recall reading somewhere I may need a professional to install the covers using heat guns, etc. If that's the case, any idea what a reasonable person or shop should charge? --Thanks, Thomas
  15. Socket head cap screws ... excellent idea ... wish I'd known that LAST weekend. To tighten the bolts on mine I took off both rear wheels, got a long flex-head ratchet on the top bolts with the handle pointed toward the gas tank, and reached through the fender wells to grab the handle. I was only able to turn the nut a single ratchet click or two at a time. To an outsider I'm sure it looked like I was artificially inseminating the car. I'm an EE too, but this Z sometimes makes me wish I was a mechanic/welder/bodyman/psychic instead.
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