w3wilkes

I am the 2nd owner of this car, I purchased it from the original owner in 1990. In talking to the original owner when I bought the car and a few times since I really doubt that the switch was upgraded/replaced and I know I didn't replace it. Since Datsun did a lot of work to increase production capability in 1970 it seems like that it is entirely possible that there were multiple production lines for the 240Z with lines being stocked with newer parts at different times as needed. Another difference on the interior of my car is my map light is hooded and some other 1970 built 240Z's I've seen the map light has no hood.

Here's the switch from my 12/70 car #17486.

I really know nothing about these folks but they're local in the Salt Lake City area. JDM Legends – JDM Legends Store Here's a video they did a while back on a 1972 240Z restoration. JDM Legends - Season 1 Episode 1 - We Are JDM Legends - video Dailymotion

Interesting, my 12/70 car has the yellow switch. My S/N is HLS30-17486, I'm guessing your 12/70 car has an earlier S/N than mine.

I'm all LED except for the dash. I used a couple of these from Amazon for blinkers and emergency flashers and they've worked just fine since I installed them back in 2017. Amazon.com: VOFONO 2-Pin Electric Flasher Relay, 12V Heavy Duty 2 Pin Compatible Automobile Motorcycle Bike Scooter Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Fast Hyper Flash，Two Prong Round : Automotive

My 12/70 car has a 3 groove pulley. I would guess the 3rd groove was added for the dealer installed A/C.

You could do an inertia switch in the jumper loop on that plug. Duralast Fuel Pump Inertia Switch SW1771

And replied to. Something like "because there's no air pump... I guess I should plug that"

Motorheads Season 1 Episode 10 starting at about 38:45 minutes in. The girl (and she is a Motorhead) just found this car in a junk yard because a Cardinal landed on the hood like a message from her passed away father. The episode ends with her looking at a Clymber manual on Z car building.

They look like GOLDTOE Men's 656S Cotton Crew Athletic Socks, probably from Amazon or Costco.

I would guess that either are fine shocks. The biggest difference is the Koni's are adjustable.

I've not really seen any bad press on these Koni adjustables either. Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - KONI Sport Adjustable Gas Strut, Rear, 70-8/74 240Z-260Z Coupe

The tread design of the Michelin XAS 175 HR14 looks pretty close to original. Here's a photo of my original spare tire of my 12/70 car.

My 12/70 car has the clip.

And for a little "snake oil" friction reducer I add about 4 oz. of TVT Green to the oil change. TVT Green vs Royal purple

I've been using Driven HR1 for the last 8 years and have been very happy with it.

Forgot to mention that vehicles registered as vintage 1982 and older do not require emissions. Vehicles 1973 and older are allowed to use license plates issued for the year of the vehicle if you can find them.

In Utah we have no safety inspection anywhere, emissions are by county. In the counties that are trapped between 2 mountain ranges they do have emissions inspections and it so happens that the trapped counties have the majority of the states population. If you cause an accident due to some safety issue you didn't get fixed it's not pretty. Rust... Yea, we got plenty in northern Utah where they use massive amounts of salt when it snows (plenty of salt beds around the Great Salt Lake). I really don't see safety issues other than cuts if you grab a rust hole.

The last time I got tires I took the wheels off the car and went to the tire store. They did mount and balance (no outside weights), I took them home and put them back on the car. No issues.

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

A possibility of fuel starvation. The end of the return of the fuel rail is restricted so there is some back pressure on the supply side to the carbs. If the lines were reversed that back pressure won't be there to feed the carbs.

All I know about the 60amp internal regulator is I also have it. I think this old thread shows the wiring diagram that is implemented with Dave Irwin's upgrade. 240z alternator upgrade (instructions w/ pictures) - Electrical - Classic Zcar Community

I converted to electric fuel pump in my '71 Z and left the return fuel line in place. I figure this helps keep the fuel cooler because the heated fuel that doesn't get used in the carbs is returned to the tank which is cooler than the engine bay. I figure this allows more cool fuel from the tank to flow to the carbs. Also if it's available in Panama you should run ethanol free gas. The ethanol free I use is 88 octane and the car runs just fine. If you don't have ethanol free you should probably run premium. I do have ceramic coated headers and the heat shield under the carbs and I've seen my temp gauge get up to close to half way between the middle of the gauge and the hot side and didn't vapor lock. The weather here runs in the 90's (Fahrenheit) to 100 in the summer. As you've experienced, heavy traffic with lots of idling will heat these cars up!

Over on hybridz there's a thread of an N42 with round ports and the bung on the plug side of the head. The thread does mention ATK which this engine has a ATK sticker on it. HybridZIdentify this N42 head - round port???Alright L series engine gurus - need help. identify this head! Its a N42 head, but it has external oil squirters for cam and ROUND ports! And one bracket on the side that is not common on L series...

I don't understand what's weird about the exhaust ports? I thought they went round with the 280Z where earlier cars had rectangular exhaust ports.