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belt molding


Dave WM

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17 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

this looks like it might work

https://www.steelerubber.com/side-window-weatherstrip-70-0064-57

I was hoping to just replace the rubber scrapper that is on the outside, searched only could find super expensive complete assy, not just the rubber part.

Agreed, that might work.  The OE squeegee strip has metal reinforced mounting in the body so you might want to reuse that portion to attach this product if you proceed.

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I will see if they can send me a sample to check fit. Yes I was planning on using the metal from the existing part. I just seems like such a waste to have to buy the complete assembly. Too bad who ever it is that is making the repro kit will not sell just the rubber for those that are willing to do the work and have good un kinked OE metal frames.

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at the very end he mentions why its so wide, lacks flocking on back side that would allow the window to roll down without sucking the rubber back on itself. Will give them a call in the morning, I did not see it on the website.

 

 

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https://skillard.com/product/datsun-240z-260z-280z-door-window-rubber-wipe-kit/?doing_wp_cron=1586743688.7477850914001464843750

hmmm, if it came with a flocked back It may be worth a go, I may just have to pop for the expensive option. I hate the idea of spending soo much for what looks like a simple fix, but the more I search the more I realize it looks like the only option that will look "right" and work. I just don't like the idea of water leaking down inside the door any more than it has too. My current belt lines are fully intact but are fairly hard and don't seal along the length of the window.

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1 hour ago, Freez74 said:

I bought these and installed them. 

https://zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new

You have to reuse the original metal backing strip, but it was not that hard.  They look exactly like original when done.

Perfect, thanks for pointing this out, will call them today!

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I found some 1mm diameter galvanized steel wire at Ace Hardware, and used the original staple holes to pass the wire through.  Folded the ends over and crimped with pliers, as you suggested.  Some of the holes needed to be enlarged slightly with a tiny drill bit.  The worst part was getting the old staples out, they are very tight and made of some hard wire, no way to cut them with pliers and pull them out.  So I cut each staple in half with a small cutting disc on a Dremel-type tool, and wriggled them out.  Repeat many times.

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roger that. I also found this

https://www.staples.com/Stanley-Bostitch-B8-PowerCrown-Heavy-Duty-Stapling-Plier-Fastening-Capacity-45-Sheets-20-lb-Black/product_387516

Don't know if its man enough to use for metal, but maybe if the staple holes lined up it would be fine. I will take a trip down to the staples to check it out in person.

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got the rubber in, ordered the B8 stapler and some 1/4 staples (will be delivered too much of a pita to go to a store and see if it will work, not much$$).

Thanks again to Freez74 on the tip, the rubber looks EXACTLY like the OE profile, has the flocking etc...

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Glad I could help!  I hope the stapler works, if not, the 1mm wire does well, just time consuming to push through all those little holes.  I was very pleased with the way sweeps worked and fit, with a slightly fuzzy side against the glass.  Windows roll up and down well, with the rubber in contact with the glass.  You do have to trim the length of the sweep a little, so you have to fit it up to the door and mark the trim strip where to cut it.  I also cut an angle into the rubber at the front of the door, seemed to fit better that way.

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its going well, I found a piece of music wire in my stash, less that 1/64, as I used a 1/64 drill bit to re drill all the holes. I just hold it in place drill thru the rubber after pre drilling the metal strip and the trim strip and then drop the home made stapes (bent using pliers) into place, I cant find my needle nose to bend the back, but I can tell it going to work fine.

To remove the old staples I used a mototool and a cut of disk, got the back sides off the staples cut off, then the rubber and outside strip just pulled clean, taking the staple with it.

I will wait for the stapler just to see if it works any better before bending them in place. I can pull the homemades out and drill another hole if need be to match the stapler. It will all depend on the thickness of the shoe that bend them in place.

the idea is the stapler does not have to punch thru any metal just has to push thru the rubber and then fold the staple. Now if its a monster maybe it can punch thru the metal as well. The factory obviously did.

Edited by Dave WM
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Minor problem, maybe it will work itself out. the window tilts in, apparently from the added pressure of the new rubber, enough so that it will miss the forward part of the window sash as its rolled up. With the old rubber its fine, with the rubber off its fine. I am hoping that as the rubber relaxes and is flexed (a slight push at the top of the window is all it takes to get it to line up as it approaches the top) it will not push as hard and allow the window to stay in line without having to guide it.

Edited by Dave WM
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the old rubber was barely touching it, no pressure at all the new sweeps it very nicely. Tried it early today and it seemed fine (as if the rubber had relaxed some). the windows do have  the pressure roller pushing the  forward part of the window glass inward, I presume to help guide them and keep from rattling. I assume you refer to the window tracks that guide the window regulator up? I will be taking the inner panel off later to look into it. I wanted to grease the regulator  and reseal the vapor barrio anyway. I cant see how to adjust the inward outward tilt of the window, short of adding spacers to the bottom or tops of the guides (if that makes any sense, I have not looked at it yet).

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Just went out and tested again, up and down several times, no more issue. Will be interesting to see if the other door has the same initial problem. Now I just need to wash the car and see if any water weeps out the bottom of the door, I think I will remove the door panel and look for it while washing.

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