dutchzcarguy

They look like the originals! But i do miss the text: "max: xxxx mm diameter " on the inside of it. (I don't know if these are for the later s30's 260z and 280z, but they look like the 240z ones i have.)

Okay, but some people have a long torso and others have (like me.. ) long legs.. Has someone tall here (6 foot 3 and bigger) ever sat in a 370z cabriolet? I was stuck between the seat.. in the rear position.. and the dashboard, did not fit AT ALL !! I was very disappointed.. to say the least..

I'm 6 foot 4 and also long legged.. I installed a special "scheel" seat.. Scheel makes very special seats for cars and stuff.. i bought one from the internet long ago.. and installed some 4 way seatbelts/ race harness. I took away the studs on the floor and directly bolted the seat to the floor, also a bit further to the rear, i had to make a dent in the left rear wheelwell haha.. otherwise the big seat could not go back enough.. 😮

HAhahaha.. im not surprised... who else makes them for that money.. for 60 euro's an hour i can't make 'em! Yes, I'm laughing but it's actually to cry... I think it's time to stop buying chinese junk and other stuff.. (Btw, i don't think these exhausts are junk! but A LOT of chinese stuff IS! It's like anywhere else: if you want better quality you have to pay UP!! 😉 )

Eh... NO... there are A LOT of differences.. Most time people say they are the same, it will fit is when they have something for sale! haha.. And sometimes i have the feeling that it's even worse for the s130 (280zx's) they are also very different. You have to make sure that the part you want to buy fits the car by looking at the date of the car and/or serial numbers.. I remember that i needed another radiator in my s130 and i bought several (in a big parts buy..) and they were from s130 and s30 and all were different in some way.. (mainly in the spots were the bolts go to fit in the car.)

Wow! Nice dash! If you get everything else as good as that t's gonna be a gem that 240z of yours! 😉 Yes, it's nice to have a 280zx while your working on a 240z.. i had the opposit these last years, worked on the 280zx and drove the 240z to and from the painter and when i needed parts and all other shopping.. Maybe you can look around for a Fs5w71b gearbox for your 280zx? I don't know but maybe the diff is usable from the auto? Then you need only some parts for in the car around the gearbox.. Yeah, once you have driven a 280zx then you know how nice they run! A 240 is nimble, something a 280zx is not but it drives very nice.. a 280zx is more of a GT than a sportscar.. i like that a lot.

Ps. you can change the topic name of this topic, how? you will find out! 🙂

HI Ryan! You say: I never suffered such pain.. I know what you mean.. My mother left us .. just half an hour after i heared that I had successfully completed my education, which i worked hard for.. (i really went from high up to the lowest deepest pit..) So.. my condolences to you. Nice to hear that you are working on your car again! Do you still have the 280zx and what are you going to do with it? But first that 240 ofcourse!! We want to see your progress! (But finish first your house and stuff..) Mart

You can also do it from the underside, just drill right through the floor, then drill some extra holes, clean up everything with a steelwire brush (on a drill) and put the new rails in place from the underside, just put some little welds from the underside and then if it is positioned right, weld the whole thing together. (Just clean it well because the stuff on that floor catches fire easely... ask me how i know... 😉 )

A good way to do the rails is (when your car is empty inside , you took all the interior out..) is to weld them from the inside! first you drill holes from 1/4 inch in the old spotwelds than take off the old rails.. then you can weld the new rails from top.. from the inside and they will look also much better as you have no weld mess on the underside. (you will see that it almost looks like original.) You may want to drill some extra holes for new welds also.. (I had to drill every inch a hole from 6mm (i did even 7,5 mm) to get my old 240z through the APK (Dutch MOT!) when i made it a new floor and rails in 2000! If I had not done that, the car would not have passed the strict inspection!) (Btw.. about the fan when welding.. don't put it to close to your welding ofcourse.. otherwise you need a lot of gas and you make bad welds.. just let a fan above you blow the smoke away.. What i sometimes do is take compressed air and blow away the smoke and also when you are making a lot of dust, blow it away, you need a lot of air.. Also when you have a small fire from welding it's always handy to have the compressed air within reach.)

You did a nice job on the steel sheet! But i see (i think) not clean enough welding area.. (hence the black soot around your welds..?) To have a good weld clean the place from all paint and stuff, you will see that the welding go's much better and... it's better for your lungs! ( use some fan or other air displacing stuff.. welding can be very poisonous

That typo was just corrected hihihi... funny! 😂

For what are those bulky looking steel things sticking from under the front bumper for? Never seen those...

Yes.. but he has a Amp. meter there! ... so he has to learn how to use it.. That's why i described the proces.. hope he gets it.

I'm surprised no one said this: Take of a pole from your battery and put in series a amp.meter or in detail: Take of the minus pole then put the meter on the 10A socket (Red wire in 10 a socket on your meter!) and put the wires in series (in between) with the pole and pole-clamp. and switch the meter to the 10A setting.. (If the current is very low, under 1 amp. then you can switch back to the other connection (V,Ohms,mA on your meter and set meterswitch to mA.)The current you now are seeing is the leaking amperage! Start now taking out fuses and every time take a look at the meter.. then at a certain fuse the amperage will drop, thats the part (of your wiringloom) that is draining the battery! If there is no current at all? then your battery has a internal circuit-leak and has to be re-newed.. Good luck! 🙂 Mart.

And what to think of a : TRASNSMISSION !!

I see a little cable "hook"on it.. suggests that there could be something electric installed on it.. on the 4 "bolts" ?? Fuelpump?

Now the Ukrainian defence start to use another Z like sign... 🙄 I have taken all my Z signs from my cars when the russians used the sign.. (No.. just kidding, i already took them of years ago, they are in my parts-cupboard. I let people guess what brand of cars they are.)

Btw.. A euro 260z had 162 HP... And exactly the same (damn) Flattops.. About the typo.. i would spell BumperS.. not bumper as it has 2 of them? 😉

Just DON'T wear this shirt in the Ukraine.. at the moment..

I think you can use any modern coolant, just be sure it's for a steel and aluminium engine. Even those good old radiators can't stay good with only water in it.. better get some real coolant.. (I got Renault/Nissan coolant IIRC in my old z's.. made for steel/alu engines.)

How about just keeping the sunroof... put in a new one that you can open in more than one way.. (sliding glass..) I never see one with a sunroof..

I like to ad.. If at any tme you take apart some connectors and they look silver and black corrosion.. then they are corroded silver and you don't really have to clean those silver plated connections.. why? Silveroxide has even a better electric conduction then silver !! Tell me who knew? When i was a electronic engineer in audio (Pro) systems like are used in recording studio's there where a lot of them.. so now you know, let it sit on those connectors it's no problem. For the most connectors in a car i use deoxit also, as i could buy it overhere in a store for music instruments.. they imported it from the US to repair musical instruments! Many years ago i used a chemical called K60 but it is a very agressive fluid.. and after some time the problem comes back.. For bad contacts in potentiometers i use white grease, special made for pot-meters.. stops also the squieky (Cracking?) noises in audio pot-meters! (For example: volume knob of your carradio.)

SOrry, but i don't.. why? It was one of the things why i restored this car. the underside of it is covered in a sort of black tar i really don't know exactly what it is but i think it's what we overhere call: "silolak " a translation could be: silo-laquer.. (stuff farmers use to protect concrete/steel/wood.) It's on there since the 90's so why did'nt i take it off? I believe i tell this somewhere in the topic about my 280zx and it's because when i took some off the stuff (maybe it's a (secret?) mix of special stuff i don't know but i took some off from the brakelines and they came out as NEW! from under it! As i'm partly disabled, i have had a neck injury long ago where i almost broke my neck running up stairs and hitting a big beam.. auw.. So now i can't look up a long time, also not to long to one point and that kept me from doing the floor.. As i took out all the stuff out of the car i could see that the car had a good floor. Maybe some day i will clean it off by a firm or so.. don't know but as long it's a good floor i will keep it "oiled up" so it doesn't rust.. To the secret stuff used as undercoating can i say, maybe the last owner who i plan to visit when i'm ready with the engineroom, knows more about it. My 280zx was inside and outside sealed with oily stuff, not normall! But that's what saved this vehicle! I took it all off incl. the paint. Have you seen the wheel houses on my pics?.. just thought of that! I had them cleaned out (costs another 500€) and must have some pics of those all cleaned out.. Mart (It comes from Martin!) ... Yes i also react to Dutch.. haha ) 🙂

Sigh... (pfffff....) 😁 you should buy or hire some cheep!