dutchzcarguy

Wow.. what a job.. i was glad someone else took over that job from me.. cost me a 1000 euro or so.. and someone else took over the wheel housings for 100 euro a housing... i would not do it for 100euro.. a housing.. would you? (There was a thick layer of anti rust, very hard and dry.) Paint is a sort of plastic at the end and can be very sharp edged.. Lead is a soft material, not so sharp..

Are mar bags what i think that they are?? please explain? What does M.A.R. stand for? I for one.. i don't prepare anything in this world.. i don't want to live when those Worlds "leaders" are going to throw with the most feared projectiles.. your better of dead..

But i can't see it very well.. i also think, as i got some originals lying around, yours is not that same (original USA not the euro version) panel where the turnsignal light fits into? IIRC the hole sits lower in that part. Maybe you have a pic of "the bigger picture" (less detailed.) ?

For the top part take a little clamp from a firm that does in tools and tool racks (to store the screwdrivers on a rack!) and the lower part bend a piece of metal and weld or rivet together. Can someone give some measurements?

Could it be that the lower part is a non-original part? maybe a pic less close.. would explain more? I assume you have the part with the turn indicator hole that fits under the sugarscoop / headlight bezel.. there but i don't recognize it as such..

Oh.. that's simple... your power to the rear defrost has to come from the right fuse.. apparently your defrost is now on the line after the lightswitch.. whats not correct! Take a good look at the 240z schematic and look at where the defrost is connected to the power..

Yeah.. restore the horn also. take it apart and clean it, the contact in it has to be clean and needs to be tuned just right otherwise the horn only clicks..

Yeah but i read that they are also a compromise between JIS and PHILLIPS... Point2 in the list... (Link above in #23)

Hey Wallflower? Is the car now finished or sold and busy with the next project? Let us know! 🙂 BTW.. the exhaust at the last pic.. you say you made the exhaust yourself. also the damper? what kind of damping material did you use in the damper?

Yeap! metall against the header, why? Thats the part that is really going to be the hottest part so that's the way to go! 😉

Wow.. and it didn't say JIS on the handle or so? funny... so you had them and did not know it! 😮

Sorry, can't... These pics i took from the internet.. the 240z i have is a feb.1971 and not a VERY first edition with those screws in the doors! So i can't help with that. I almost sure that your original screws will have the dimple as Japan in those times used the JIS screws a lot.. Later on.. in my 1979 280zx i see a lot of Phillips! (without the dimple..)

I think the correct screw would be a JIS not a Phillips head screw... JIS looks like the Phillips but has a little dimple in one of the corners of the cross.. You also need a JIS screwdriver for that.. On a datsun 240z there are many screws with JIS... now you know also why the Phillips screwdriver never fitted very well 😉 .... See de dimple on it..

Reminds me of the time a friend was making a mixingconsole cable.. with a cap.. he was halfway making a 24 channel mixingconsole wiring.. i came by to look how it was going.. after i saw his work... he was complaining about the difficult work (don't know if you ever solderd some shielded wire but it's a precision job!) And i told him to stop immediatly.. he asked WHY?.. i sayd if you see it you get angry... after i showed him the cap laying around he went nuts.. The other side of the cable was already ready so no options then to take all the wiring of and start over.. pfff...

What i've done is you put a heatshrink on to long.. let it stick out a half inch or so.. then fold it back and shrink another short piece over that! You end up with 2 layers and a closed end. 🙂

I don't know if there is someone that made these beam's ( see pic.) can you make them yourself by hand? Still a lot of work.. i would look for a better chassis. Also.. take a look at the inner side of the corners of the chassis where you normally lift the car.. there should be a inner steel plate between the inside and outside part. Lots of 280zx's have bad corners and can't be lifted there (lifting points.)

Yeah.. seems to be repairable!! I've seen cars that had fiberglass repairs and came out to be unrepairable.. Think you can restore the damage because its not to much! 👍 I'm curious how the corner just in front of the left rear wheel comes out when you take the glassfiber out there..

Sure hope it's not a scam! WOW.. 100$ for a set of 4 of them?? can i have a set...or 5? 🙂

On the right of the hole i see rust...steel.. on the left there is no rust and glass fibres in the edge of the fender... so.. this was a local repair with glassfibres.. that's a bad omen!!

You take it with a smile but this car needs a lot.. all depends on what's under the fenders.. Could be a little and could be gone completly bad.. On the pic of the front of the rear wheels i see some glassfibre repair... A BIG ALARM just went off!! I know what you are going thrue.. In 1991 i bought a 240z ... original Dutch (Read: complete pile of rust!!) ... After i removed the flooring i took all the good parts off of the car and called the local wrecker to pic up the car... it went with a good roof.. damn... the rest was junk.. Today i still drive a 240z with euro (Dutch) drivetrain! 😉 I'm curious what's under the fenders please remove them and make some pics and place them here!

Before you even put more hours and work in this body... (i would not restore the damage it's to much..) take a good look under the front fenders near the doors.. I think the body is to far gone there.. as it is a real collector from mud and water. Damn that bottom is rusty! Don't know your budget but get yourself a better body i think!

Take a good look at the following picture.. That's why i should restore this car before i even consider to sell.. this feb 1971 car does restored between 35 and 80000 dollar.. (I got some rear wheel arches for it and everything else.) What i want for it as is.. is a difficult question to answer! This type is the most valuable at the time for me as it does not have the (leaky) rear deck vents and already the side vents but has (almost?) all the other 1st type features.. i can't put a price on it, and also if i sell now i want to sell some parts also for it so the next owner can make it a good restored car.. But i am under the impression that you want a turn key car? (Ready to go?) Wrong wheelarches and a very bad paintjob..

Hahaha.. yes.. i have no pictures! It's a solid car only the fenders have a little rust and the hood is gone bad on the front.. but those parts i never took off.. This car looks like a pile of crap.... Yes it's a original 4 speed ami that i converted to a euro original 5 speed (and diff!) with orig 2,4 Ltr engine. roundtop carbs and euro balance tube! I think i better restore this car first because people always judge a car on it's paintjob! Something that one shoud NOT do because the bodywork on a 240z in much more important.. I do have all the parts to restore it to a 50 grand car....(Brand new hood.. and lots of other stuff) Even a orig. euro 5 speed gearbox extra and a orig 2,4 ltr engine that i could use to make a stroker or so keeping the matching numbers engine original to the car.... possibilities possibilities..... pff, that's gonna take me another 7-9 years.. I restored the engine by giving it some new gaskets and oil seals in 2007. Today after 51 years it still drives over 200kph! But this is not what your looking for, you want a car that is ready to drive, this one is roadworthy but needs a complete restoration.. some pics from 2012.... (Original was the car silver.. not Ferrari red..)

Yeah.. the seller just thinks if he really wants a z car.. he will come and take a look at it.. and when your in the neighbourhood you drive another 30km and maybe you can make a offer on my 240z.. it's paintjob is bad (over 30 years old i guess) but it's solid and always had APK and i drove it over 21 years! It's the wanted early type 240z from (feb)1971

I could say about 3mm would be a nice gap? (1/8 inch? ) For all the gaps you mention.. just know that the gap on these oldtimers are smaller than the gaps on modern cars i think? always start with the door to quarter panel, then the fender to door and combine that with the hood to fender gap! The hatch is simply 1 part that just fits..or not.. than you have to do some welding until it fits.. Look local at old car gaps and take some measures of it..