dutchzcarguy

Ofcourse.. STUPID me... I didn't read it all but have you used some injectorcleaner? Old injectors deliver total different amounts of fuel, i would do some in half a tank of fuel, normally one bottle is for a full tank. put a bottle of injectorcleaner in your fuel. (Unless you have new injectors or already did this ofcourse.)

a eh..Zpam?

I can order a part but nothing tells me they are closed.. (I'm not going to..)

I see a 3 (top) fatty sparkplugs.. indication that one of your carbs is not correct..(to much fuel or not enough air?) Or those 3 cylinders have a problem.. not likely after a revision i think.

I thought about that one, and i took a close look at your rpm-meter when you started but could not see any difference.. now i know how that sounds! 🙂 It's totally different from the normal startersound!

WOW, just... WOW!! Even the roof is rotten away.. I had a 240z with doors.. the lower sides were made of putty.. I made by hand some new doors (lower parts) and it was A LOT of work but worth it.. I believe i told you in the beginning to look close at every panel before you put one dollar into this project, but don't be sad.. there are many guys that fell for a wreck and had to buy themselves another car.. I think to restore this one it's gonna take A LOT of (Very expensive) parts, can't you buy a better one and keep the parts from this one for spareparts? I have had one for spareparts and it was a big plus! How is your 280zx? daily driver?

Yes, they both work, so you're gonna use one and keep the other for reserve.. funny.. (Please make yourself a note for the glovebox what you must do when you need to switch, in a year or 3 you will never remember what to do to switch to the other system ) What's about that starter at 1:45 min. in your video, i have heard a lot of start-ups but never one like this one! Something is not right, grinding gears??

Haha.. yeah, years ago, everybody sayd.. A DINO? That's not a ferrari! You could buy one here for 60 grand.. and look at the prices now! With my 6foot and the rest... i'm not fitting in ANY Ferrari.. so I HATE THOSE F******* ITALIAN SH*T CARS! (Just letting off steam....🤣)

Look at the little hole on the right.. it's rotted away... how can you say: undamaged..

And now... a picture of the ends! Sorry but your asking for a comment like this..

Yes, my gun is also top cup. I believe that it was devilbiss that took over the fabricator of airograph in england.. (I'm not sure.. but it was a famous brand that took over airograph many many years ago...)

I had a set too but sold then as they required more wires (i have a usa cal. 240z) .. I have saved me a French 240z rear lights set! They have no back up lights (white) and will not need me to ad a extra wire! (Upper part is red and lower part orange.. or visa-versa.. don't no..) I don't know if i ever start to restore my 240z (for the third.. for me, for the second time! haha..) but then there is the hazard switch also that messes things up.. I know that the american car has a 9 wire and the euro has a 3 wire switch.. so there is also a lot of wire changes due.. The brakes light is wired into the indicators and make things complicated.. I don't now which electronic diagram i have in my 240z service manual but there should be 2 different ones at least.. If someone has these.. the US and EU/Japanese, ones that would be nice to have in this topic.

When you take a close look at your plate.. i think the 2 is the fake later placed number as there is a much bigger dent around the "2 " ? Like the dent around the 1 in the earlyer picture? When the Japanese worker hit it with the " 1 " on the bench i guess the indentation is deep and you have no dent around the digit.. When you "illegal" put in an extra number while the plate is on the car you make a much bigger dent and the digit itself has less deeper indentation.. You have to enlarge the picture to see it properly. I wonder if you can see something of a indentation in the paint behind the 1 or in your case the 2? Drill them rivet's out and get yourself 4 new ones! On the other hand those 2 cars could be from dec. 1970, the chassisnumbers are not that far from each other. Maybe Mr beck @Carl Beck knows If the chassisnumbers fit the dates.. (And that Japanese mechanic used some different height of letters/digits to identify these cars..) (My translator does not give a name for "slagletters/cijfers" so i like to know what you call these tools to hit with the hammer to make the letter/number on those plates! Thanks!)

Haha.. yeah, but that's not the problem.. i got a over 40 years old paintgun and i bet it's better than a lot of those new junk paintguns they sell on ebay.. I've got a AIROGRAPH paintgun with serialnumber made in england.. long time ago.. I get these kind of vid's more often and look at then a few seconds.. skip alot and saw him painting in a dusty garage.. that to me is a big NO NO.. so i skipped the rest of the video...

Yeah, video about how it's (NOT) done! hahaha...

No no... zedhead.. this is a feb (2) 1970's car were some moron thought i put a one (1) in front of it, while the plate is ON the car.. (would be spectacular when someone finds out the laquer under the plate is damaged only were the 1 has been hamered into it!) BTW... I'm just kidding... or AM I?? I ask myself: Are there more people with such a strange fat 1 in front of a "normal thin "1" or "2" ?

Nice job on the floor on the left on pic 233 Oh well i just forgot to weld it together.... pffff.... oh just cosmetic the seller says... pfff...

I know that the Americans title them in a month and call it a car from the day it's titled.. Overhere a 12-'70 car is .... a 1970's car! it's made (so it says ON IT !!) IN DECEMBER 1970! so from wich year is the car? 1970... but hey.. if you all are fine with calling it a 1971 car.. it's fine... everyone his own quirkiness / oddity ! When i bought my Datsun 240z from feb 1971 (It says: 02/71 on the plate) And i became a reg. for a feb 1971 car, simple.. This made me think of a special case here in the Netherlands.. A guy bought himself (in 2009) a 300zx made in 1984 but was for years not registrated for a licenceplate. It had become one in 1988 but the car was from 1984.. As cars of 25 years and older became (road-) taxfree* in 2009 he wanted that too.. Normally he would had to wait till 2013 but as the parts in the car and serial number were from 1984 he became a new registration certificate! (License plate stayed the same i believe) Now the car was legal to pay no longer roadtax.. But it still was a 1984 car... (With 1988 license numbers.. as we have here in the Netherlands consecutive numbers/digits on the license plate and when a series is full a new series starts) * (Nowdays it's 40 years overhere as everyone started to drive old Mercedes diesel... and made a mess of the enviroment here!)

Yes, if you put up more than let's say 1,5 rounds.. so just use a little not 3-5 rounds because that will isolate your sensor from ground. better use a drop of liquid loc-tite. You can use teflon (PTFE) tape but if the meter does not give any oilpressure you know you used to much tape 😉 !!

For as far i know the threads are conical (Tapered) just a drop of loctite is good enough. (And yes, the connection has to be electric conductive as the sensor makes some "earth" to the meter to make it come of the zero .. 😉 )

I think you have the same sensor there as the 280zx.. the one with those 2 contacts? They tend to leak right through the sensor and oil comes out on the contact-side! When they do this they are also prone to giving a lower pressure on your meter.. best to put a new one in..

When i looked for a new set for my 280zx, i bought me a set for a nissan patrol.. (the '80's type) they were exact the same type and model. Overhere the headlights are not that flat on a 240z, much more round.. and never seald beam. also they have a parking light of 5 Watt in there.. And a 280zx housing does not have a parking light in it.. only a H4 bulb with high and low beam.

That's why taking A LOT of pictures before taking something apart is so important.. (see your other question about the throttle linkage) with this one i can't help.. never seen some T- parts on a euro... i think.. 🤔

Maybe from a RHD 280zx.. on pic's here athrottle pivot from my LHD.. looks simular to yours.. only mirrored.

Also.. when i look at the ebay pulley.. how well would an old part like that "balance"? In the last pic of that old balancer you can see the "goo" come out of it and that should work after 40+ years... i have my doubts.. better buy a new one? They are around.. How important is a good balancer anyway? comes to mind... why are they so expensive?