dutchzcarguy

Overhere the fuel IS over 10 dollar a gallon.. 2,40 euro per Liter! And that's Euro 95 with that $^!# in it (ethanol...) Happy that i don't need a car, i drive about a 1000 km a year.. (in differend z(x) cars!) That's what I DID !!! 😉 Lots of things you can buy in bulk and i just did that too!

OH !!! WE got many of those!! They ALL have plastic fingertops filled with auto sealer shooting tips! Don't your country have those to??

Exactly what i meant.. just to write it in english was just to difficult/ to much work Hahaha... 😆

IIRC It says in the bible... that's the servicemanual that you have to put some sealant on a few spots.. (I find it unbelievable that there are still people that put an engine together (I'm not saying you are!) without a service manual! You can acces it for free! These engines are not difficult but one WILL forget something or torck things the wrong way..

Over here were it's colder .. even we use 80W90 GL-4 and in a hotter environment i think it's even better/more recommended to use a thicker oil..

I used some locktite sealer on those paper gaskets, it sticks the gasket to one side and makes it more easy to put it all together, also the chance that it is sealed is very high. Just don't over do it, a little bit of that blue (silicone like) sealer out of a locktite tube is enough! (on both sides of the gasket.)

Nice car! These pics look like you took them out of the original brochure! If i had this car i would look under those plastic wheelhouse extrenders, i did this with my 300zxtt wheelhouse protectors and you can prevent any rust.. important because when it's emergine than it's to late! (I never saw some rust under mine luckely!) I also spray some WD40 inbetween those covers so it gets rid of the moist..

Also look twice(!) for airleaks in the system particularly that fat rubber hose after the airregulator, and in front of engine. Right inbetween those fat rings that are in that tube are the leaks! (A very minor leak can make the engine run very unregular.)

In the link i see some pics with silver colored contacts.. just clean those with a cotton cleaning towel or something.. and some contactcleaner. Never use a file on these contacts! If the silver is damaged it's gone.. Also, if you see sort of BLACK soot on these contacts it's silveroxide and... you can leave it on! SILVEROXIDE IS almost as good as silver itself (if you don't believe this, take a (micro)- Ohmmeter and test the contacts! Just put some contactspray on them and if this takes of a little of that back stuff that's okay! EDIT: Just googled it and had to change it in: conduction of silveroxide is almost as good as silver .. There was long a myth that silveroxide was a better conductor than silver.. but it's slichtly worse. (still better than copper i think..) Also most times when silver oxidises you get silversulfide not oxide.. it lookes very dark brown.. Also "google" said that silveroxide is not made (!).... but it's a black layer.. (very contradicting this!) anyway.. clean it with some contactcleaner that's not to agressive, a clean silver contact should emerge!

Maybe you can open it up and look what's wrong with it? I never looked in one but i always say: it's ALL repairable! haha, but against how high cost i don't know.. Put some pics of the inside here.. (Maybe it's just dirt stopping it from functioning..) It has only 3 contact, so it's just a switch between 2 positions, maybe the contacts are bad, in need of a clean?

There is a little black box on the throttle axle marked with:A22-602-421 , it's a switch.. it tells the "ecu" if the throttle is opened or not..

If you have room for it... (and as you take everything off the chassis) .. i definitly would go for a rotisserie! (Make one that is universal for cars!)

Hi, I used 10w40 always in L28 in 3 cars.. over 30 years experience and never another.. i think you can use 20W50 also because of the warm weather, but still u will use a bit more fuel because of the viscosity of the thicker 20W.. for lubrication i think you can stick to 10W40, makes very little difference. As fuel is expensive i would stick to 10W... Racing oil is also not necessary, throwing away your money.. unless you have a very modified engine. You could use some oil special for high miles engines if you have a lot of miles on your engine.. say over 200 kmiles..

That's a common thing! I found that more than once! It's some kind of modification? My 240z has it to! i drive it now for over 20 years with just one spring! Have you done a compression test on your engine? i would do one.. Maybe you have worn cyl. or pistonrings or sticky valves?

That's the best solution. If you don't know exactly how to install.. just ask google! 😉 or youtube!

We all have done something wrong i think to our cars in time.. i think you installed it the wrong way (?) ... The part does not look very used.. could be that if you sanded the pads a bit you could use it for many more miles as it did not make a very well contact to the rest of the clutch parts! The cupping will go away once the clutch is installed in the right way.. i think/hope.. (Use also some degreasing stuff because a clutch HATES grease!!)

But it has to be HeinZ !! Ketchup!! How Heinz Produce 1.8 Million Bottles of Tomato Ketchup a Day (insider.com)

Americans don't?? We like a nice piece of... Horse! I growed up eating some horse meat.. is good for yah! 🙂 I'm well over 6 foot..

Hahaha, yeah.. Now you know why i speak so good english.. kidding.. i had english for 9 years, so i should be able to express my self haha.. She was a tall and pretty girl that i can say! Later on in the 90's i heard that she went to iran or irak.. away from Kiev.. probably merried a rich sheik. 😉

Hey CO.. why the at mike? (just curious..) Hi guys.. it's been a few month's and the only thing i did is buy a (expensive?) rattlecan of special etsprimer at the painter.. Still need to clean up the engineroom and repaint and put that nice engine back in there.. (but i feel to sick and i'm looking forward to it like a horse likes to play chess.. hahaha I like to completely change sayings into something really weird.. did i do well? 🙂 ) (Can you imagine the horse.. looking to make a move with those hooves?? hahaha!) some pics of the old engine and that same engine after a clean up and all new seals.. sorry for this blurry one.. Now the better pic's.. (I thought i had already put up these pics..) one last one i found some time ago of other times.. this pic (paperrrr!!! ) was made in 1992 when i had my first 280zx t-bar.. in a silver-blue color.. At that time i was one of the volunteer electricians/sound/light engineers at a folklore 10 day festival in our village! We had some time before the festival opened and a nice car to see the area. At that time there was a group of dancers from Ukraine and this english teacher came with them! She was at that time a english teacher at the university of Kiev! (Picture shot with a Canon AE1, still in my possession!) beautiful isn't it... those horses in the meadow? kidding..

I use BPR6ES (-11) over 30 years in L28 engines (and 20+ years in L24!) and never a problem. (The 11 stands for 1,1mm distance between the points, but most people would know i guess.) The R in it stands for radio interference suppressed, so it's only a better plug then the BP6ES.

Also the 83 had a F54 block with P90 head (was a German say euro car.) (I never looked into the cyl. so don't know what type of pistons it had.)

No... always a single part covering the whole door, just under the cardboard/doorcard..

I have a addition.. A 1979 280zx (euro!) has a N42 block with dished pistons and a N42 head !! I know for sure because it's a original Dutch version.

WHAT are they?? 🤣