dutchzcarguy

Yes, if you put up more than let's say 1,5 rounds.. so just use a little not 3-5 rounds because that will isolate your sensor from ground. better use a drop of liquid loc-tite. You can use teflon (PTFE) tape but if the meter does not give any oilpressure you know you used to much tape 😉 !!

For as far i know the threads are conical (Tapered) just a drop of loctite is good enough. (And yes, the connection has to be electric conductive as the sensor makes some "earth" to the meter to make it come of the zero .. 😉 )

I think you have the same sensor there as the 280zx.. the one with those 2 contacts? They tend to leak right through the sensor and oil comes out on the contact-side! When they do this they are also prone to giving a lower pressure on your meter.. best to put a new one in..

When i looked for a new set for my 280zx, i bought me a set for a nissan patrol.. (the '80's type) they were exact the same type and model. Overhere the headlights are not that flat on a 240z, much more round.. and never seald beam. also they have a parking light of 5 Watt in there.. And a 280zx housing does not have a parking light in it.. only a H4 bulb with high and low beam.

That's why taking A LOT of pictures before taking something apart is so important.. (see your other question about the throttle linkage) with this one i can't help.. never seen some T- parts on a euro... i think.. 🤔

Maybe from a RHD 280zx.. on pic's here athrottle pivot from my LHD.. looks simular to yours.. only mirrored.

Also.. when i look at the ebay pulley.. how well would an old part like that "balance"? In the last pic of that old balancer you can see the "goo" come out of it and that should work after 40+ years... i have my doubts.. better buy a new one? They are around.. How important is a good balancer anyway? comes to mind... why are they so expensive?

Yeah i know, my 240z came from california and had 2 x 2,5mm steel floor parts.. weight about 25 kg (55Lbs) ! Hahaha.. "they" had repaired the floor with steel... reel steel haha, i took it out and there was about 50 kg steel on the floor, put some 1mm steel sheet in and that's 22 years ago this year.. It's still good but it needs some new paint under there.. maybe next year..

Sorry but that's funny..😂 Oh well, well begun is half done. And you are making a good start to open up every nook and cravice!

To say it mildly.... i'm not a fan.. I still have the orig. points and renew them every 20000 km (last time was even more) and my engine does not want to stop rev'ing.. i'm always surprised how easy it go's into the red.. (1971 240z orig.engine no revision yet!)

Just before 2000 i put in a new pair of contacts and capacitor and.. last year after about 25-30000 km i renewed the contacts just because it was time, they still worked and looked good.. I like that very much, a lot more than all that stupid electronic $^!# that you find in today's cars hahaha.. I still have to put my 280zx engine back.. and if i have any trouble with the electric stuff.. then i throw it all out.. put some carbs in it and a 240z ignition, it's much more reliable then that '80's ignition stuff!

I'm asking myself what you mean by that.. I guess i see that one of these days then..? Yeah your right, if the construction gets to weak then it's better to brace it.. I'm curious how far you go with the removing of parts...

2/3 or 2 to 3 more days? i bet it's the last one.. Btw.. do i see some welding in the floor, has it already had a new floor? (near the mid-tunnel.. right side of it..) In the mid-right of this pic..

A bit scary to see.. lots of scaffolding/bracing haha.. remember you have to make all parts fit before painting, then you can see what fit's what doesn't, you make a lot of braces but i think it just a lot of unnecessary work.. I hope the car.. what's left of it... doesn't scare you to much when it comes back from the blaster!

No.. they were tightly closed. The problem there was no fuel into the bowls because the needle valves were clogged or to old and have worn needles. I cleaned them with some carb cleaner but now the temps are high it has no problem to start as there is enough fuel.. maybe when the temps are lower the problem comes back.. then i need some new needlevalves for the early 71 carbs.. (Yeah 2 different ones..)

Sorry the link does not work.. (But glad you found the problem..) And did it smell? 😂

Whhahaha... they are standing there for some time.. a tree growing out the engineroom??? wow...

In the U.S.A. 👍 Over here in europe it did.. but not for a long time.. (I've got an early model s130120*** serial number and was delivered with a N42. Later on the 13 number/letter serialnumbers came in a s130. Mine has also no cat. or EGR. standard.) Yes, i get what you mean, there were no N42's on the 280zx in the states, but over here there were! that's what makes all those sites only mentioning american spec's worthless for us euro's, there were different set up's on z cars.. but hey, i don't have to tell you that! 😉

I ones looked for a little truck like that.. but i ask myself (as they are not found in my country) do i fit in there with my 6 foot 3-4.. i think not? What do you think?

Yeah your right Alan,one cán see exactly were the mold was opened.. 😂 WE should just agree to disagree Alan, no problem at all! Mart.

I remember that i ordered for a 6,5 mm mill-bit then i would have a little room for the 2 component glue between the steel and the wood. (As my wheel had the open holes in the spokes it was a later wheel.) The rim was 6,3 mm that i remember distinctly.. this is 1/4 inch and a common seen thickness i think. Alan, i don;t agree with you.. i don't mind but i just don't agree.. If i look at the first "wood"picture in this topic at the lower part and make a magnification i can clearly see that the grain lays all over the place.. it's has many different directions. How was this wheel made so fast without hours of sanding and stuff? Mould is the answer i think? (Btw.. my wheel took me 36-38 hours, just the woodwork.. oh well i was slow maybe if i made 10 i made the last one in 20 hours..)

As i have my own made wheel in the pic on left... I've seen the stuff where the original wheel was made of and it was damn dangerous sharp those pieces i took off of the 1971 wheel.. If i remember correctly those 3 spokes of the wheel where welded directly to the ring of 6,3mm thickness.. (i did this in 2007) I always knew that it was made of sort of wood"powder" and a adhesiv.. what was put in a mold and looks / feels like wood but is not really shaped wood like my own made wheel out of 12 pieces. Hope (I didn't read it all) that i'm right because i really think that's the stuff on the wheel.. I could shout: ... Fake! PLASTIC!! hahaha

Not if you might have a early zx engine-head.. like the N42.. it does have a provision for a mech. fuelpump. As you can see here on the front of the engine side.. (On the right.) In the 280zx there are the 3 bolts that connect the powersteering pump.. behind the blue part is a big hole for the fuelpump

Today you can buy a infrared thermometer for a few bucks.. saves you a lot of guesssing..

Whay the fuelgauge has to do with high current escapes me.. but.. What i have seen in fuse boxes is that there are rivets in the copper strips on the underside and they sometimes get a bit loose and create a resistance that heats up the connection, every time a bit more untill things start to catch fire! SO CHECK THE FUSEBOX CONNECTIONS PARTICULARLY THE RIVETTED COPPER STRIPS !! 👍